@fcwilt - thanks for pointing out the abort command. I was unaware. It's a great capability. I'll need to think if I always want to abort the whole shebang if a message is missing or I might add it as an optional parameter so the user can choose to abort or proceed if there is no message supplied.

I feel I'm standing on the edge of the slippery slope. A whole programming language could be built here...

@silver1882 said in Temp shutting off while Z-probing:

@fcwilt

I read if you do not turn the heaters off they can mess with the Bltouch's reading.

We've previously determined that's the case when using some types of bed heater. It depends on whether the bed heater traces or wires are basically a single large spiral (which generates a large magnetic field) or a better design that generates a smaller magnetic field.

Also you may check that the fan you are using for you heatsink isn't blowing to hard, I was having that problem with my dual head setup. Slowed the fan down and then redid the pid tunning and now both heads work fine.

Can you post your config.g file? What firmware version was the old board running?

The firmware version reported version 2.03RC3 is quite old. Perhaps you were running a more recent version on the old board. Either way, you should update the firmware.

There's nothing wrong with staying on 2.05 if that works for you and you're content with the features offered.

It does indicate a configuration problem though if it's not working correctly on 3.x

If you do want to try updating again, start with a fresh config file from the online tool.

https://configtool.reprapfirmware.org/Start

@dportero well you could try manually tweaking the parameters from the heater tuning to try and get a tune that works better at the higher speed, though this may mean it is less stable or overshoot at lower speeds.

Probably worth trying to identify what is causing the temperature drop too. Is it from melting that much filament, e.g. try extruding that volumetric flow when stationary? Is it from the air flow during movement, e.g. try moving at 400mm/s? Is it from the cooling fan kicking in at a higher rate?

You could also try fitting a silicone sock if you haven't already?

@tmeryhew said in Can’t Pass 250°:

M501 ; load saved parameters from non-volatile memory

Have you also checked your config-override,.g ?

@dc42 this is my stop.g file

; stop.g
; called when M0 (Stop) is run (e.g. when a print from SD card is cancelled)

M98 P"/macros/led_alert"

; Turn off all heaters
;Stop Printing (M0)
G10 P0 S0; Turn off extruder heater
M140 S0; Turn off bed heater
M300 S100 P500; Sound beep using PanelDue buzzer, frequency Hz (Snn), Duration (Pnn)

I am not entirerly sure if this is right for e3d toolchanger

Have you used 3.4 and the input shaping plugin?

@fcwilt Agreed. I planned to incorporate it in my build and was disappointed when I couldn't use it. However after enough tweaking I think I'm in a better place. Upgrading to the PTFE coated leadscrews helped quite a bit. I also figured out the leadscrew offsets were slightly off. Once I changed the config results started to improve. Even more so after using 4 points to calculate the leadscrew offset. This was my last G32 without the spring steel sheet on.

8bae2ed7-b959-4195-ac48-706a0157e10c-image.png

@fcwilt
Ye should for sure tidy it up. Thanks

@jos_mosa you'll have to split the axis in 2 for homing, set the position and then rejoin them into 1 axis at the end
https://docs.duet3d.com/User_manual/Connecting_hardware/Z_probe_auto_levelling#axis-levelling-using-endstops
like the example here for RRF2

@blitzreg
Can you send a picture of the graph?
I had a similar problem with 3 heaters with the same batch number.
R.G.

@phaedrux I had this volcano way before the silicone socks ever came about.
I have some of the hose printrbot used on their ubis got end but the heat makes it tear. Maybe it was meant for a lower heat.

@dc42 - Good idea. And yes, it works. Thanks a lot!

Basically, just hide the W axis at the end of the tool change macro. And re-enable it at the beginning of the tool change macro. I will try solved my goal by using an event when one filament runs out so that printing continues with the next filament. Now just find enough time .... 🙂

@phaedrux said in How to tune/calibrate heater feedforward?:

@demonlibra said in How to tune/calibrate heater feedforward?:

What length of filament is enougth for this test?

How much filament does it take at max flow to impact the thermistor reading?

Aluminum V6, heater 40 W, nozzle 0.4 mm, maximum flowrate around 10 mm3/sec.

@the-chairman Typically but the scope in which it applies can vary

@chownki it's because the inductance and back emf of those motors exceeds the power supply voltage at those speeds. When this happens, the motor positioning becomes less accurate, and the motor gets noisier.

If you are using 12V power in your machine then upgrading to 24V will allow higher speeds, although of course this normally requires different the heaters and fans.

Use our motor calculator at https://www.reprapfirmware.org/emf.html to estimate the maximum speed before the supply voltage becomes insufficient.

Have you tried tuning it yet? What values did it produce?

It's probable that you'll get differences in behaviour when tuning from cold and from a warmer ambient.

In a normal use case, what would the environmental conditions be? Running from cold, or already being warm?

What wattage is the heater?