@paolozampini1973 Others have tried to help you. but I think there has been some misunderstanding. Please read this through as there is a solution for your issue!

The onboard driver chips on the duex need only 3.3V, and the plugs you have soldered on are just tapping into that signal (that is why they are only 3.3V). As has already been explained, the extra circuitry, space and cost of adding a set of 5V converters on the board is probably not viable (have you seen how full the board is!?), especially as the use case is not very common in most 3D printers (and was less-so when the board was originally designed several years ago!).

Instead, Duet offers the expansion breakout board as has already mentioned by @droftarts. This allows you to acheive the 5V signals you are looking for and the details of it are descibed in the documentation:
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Duet_Expansion_Breakout_Board#Section_Signalling_voltages

As @droftarts mentioned in his post above, you can connect both the Expansion Breakout Board, and the Duex5 to a Duet at the same time. You just need a ribbon cable with three plugs on it. You can then use the Expansion Breakout Board to drive your external drivers (on 7, 8 & 9), and use the other drivers, heaters etc on the Duex. This should work fine for your application, and as @droftarts mentioned, this arrangement is currently in use by one of their OEM customers.

Also, as @droftarts mentions, it seems that your issue with warnings on Driver 7 8 & 9 stem from the board not being recognised as a Duex2. If you want help diagnosing this, I would start by showing how your setup looks at the moment:

• Pictures of your Duex2 Select jumper & Enable jumpers (to confirm these are correct to disable the onboard drivers)
• Firmware version (send M115)
• Config.g file
• Anything else that can help recreate the problem so someone can help you in more detail

I would suggest double checking your pulse timings and other M569 settings you are setting for your external drivers too. I personally use external drivers (different to yours admittedly) plugged straight into the expansion header on the Duet (so 3.3V) and have not had any issues. I have also seen the M569 settings be the main problems in almost all of the external driver issues on this forum over the last few years. It might simply be that you are setting the pluses too quick for your drivers to respond, and they would actually work with the 3.3V signals!

Finally, I would suggest taking a moment and structuring your posts on the forum in future, giving a bit more information on your setup, a clear description of your problem(s), and what steps you have already taken to debug/fix them in clear, separate paragraphs. This will make it easier for people to understand your issues and mean you are more likely to get a complete answer quickly. It will also help avoid any misunderstandings, especially if there are language barriers.

The forum is the main source of support from Duet3D, and in most cases seems to work very well (I'm the 5th person to try and help in this thread since you posted yesterday). I believe they are starting some form of paid support for commercial customers, but not sure if it is currently up and running, or if it would be suitable for you. As an alternative, I know one of the users on here has his own business in which he offers paid one-on-one support (https://nxt-3d.be/nxt-3d/services). If you need a more personal support, you might try reaching out to him. Again, I would still suggest taking some time to think about and structure your thoughts so that he can help you as quickly and best as he can.

Hope that helps

@zapta said in RRF configuration using object model notation:

@fcwilt, think of all the comments it will save.

Wait, you guys are commenting your gcode?

@gnydick said in Seems like Input Shaping plugin implementation is not usable:

it doesn't matter what the impulse was that caused it? That is very counterintuitive.

Since the ringing is a physical phenomenon, not something that manifests in the motors, how does this work?

Ringing is caused by the motion of the printer exciting some oscillation/mode shape. At its simplest form, think of a mass on a spring. That will always want to bounce/oscillate at a frequency of sqrt(k/m). k is stiffness and m is mass. You can hit it as hard or as gently as you like, but it will always want to respond at that frequency. Twang a ruler on the edge of a table and it will make a certain sound. The note it makes will be the same frequency, no matter how soft/hard you twang it, as long as you don't change how far it overhangs (I.e. the mass/stiffness)

Essentially your print head is a mass moving around on a spring (flexing belts, gantries etc), so will always want to respond at a certain frequency (40Hz in your case). The accelerometer is a way of measuring that response and find what that frequency is.

It actually gets a hit more complex as there are lots of masses and lots of little springs in a real system, so you will get many frequencies the system may want to respond at, just some will always be more dominant. Again, using the plug in you can look at these and pick a shaper profile to cover the worser ones.

Theoretically an impulse is an excitation that includes every frequency there is, hence the move you make should excite all the possible modes and so you can find them.

Once you apply the shaper, it essentially removes those frequencies from the acceleration part of moves when you are printing. If you then aren't exciting those frequencies, it is harder for the system (printer) to respond at those frequencies (ringing). Same idea as purposely waggling the ruler at a different frequency to the sound it wants to make - it'll never be as loud!

@breadandbudder check you have assembled the hotend correctly with a decent clearance between the heater block and the heatsink. 9 times out of 10 when I've seen V6's that can't hit temperature it's because the heater block is clamped up tight against the heatsink.

If you're not sure, you can post an image of your hotend here.

Also agree that I'd only really trust the proper branded heater cartridges. I've played with cheaper ones in the past and they are generally smaller and less round so don't clamp as well in the block. I had one fall out during a print once, though will never be sure if that was poor quality part or poor quality assembler...
30w should be plenty for what you need, but a 40w would also be fine. Much above 50w on a v6 can get very hot if you get thermal runaway so I would avoid those unless you are using copper blocks etc to reach real high temperatures (400C plus)

@sd_matt your tool 0 is currently off (it says under the tool name) so is not selected. Maybe add 'T0' to the very end of your config.

Also, unless you disable it, you will likely need to heat up your tool before it will let you extrude edit: M302 P1 allows cold extrusion

@tenaja That's down to how the firmware interprets the commands:

G1 E1 F5

Will extrude 1mm of filament at 5mm/min (RRF uses mm/min for speeds). As you are only commanding an extruder move, that sets the speed. So with F5, it will take ~12s!

G1 Z0.242 E44 F5

Will extrude 44mm of filament whilst the Z axis moves at a commanded speed of 5mm/min over a distance of 0.242mm. That will take ~3s, and you will be extruding 44mm of filament, so your extruder would be moving at ~15mm/s (that's over 900mm/min so a lot faster than the first one!)

All of this is also bound by what speed limits, accelerations and jerk settings you have for all of the moving axes (X, Y, Z, E etc) in your config, so your actual moves might be a bit slower/take a little longer depending on your settings.

@gnydick I think you're confused between Pressure Advance and Dynamic Acceleration Adjustment.

Pressure advance aims to compensate for the elasticity of the filament and the extruder system which can cause under-extrusion whenever the extrusion rate is increasing, for example at the start of a straight line when the nozzle has to accelerate from zero or near-zero speed, or over extrusion when the extrusion rate is decreasing.
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Pressure_advance
It is mostly effective at stopping under/over extrusion blobs at sharp corners. If you want to calibrate this, I'd recommend the steps at the bottom of the wiki page above.

Dynamic acceleration adjustment is used to help ringing/ghosting in your prints by tuning out the frequency you set. I think this is what you want
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#Section_M593_Configure_Dynamic_Acceleration_Adjustment

I'm guessing you've already chased after all the mechanical things to aid ringing (belt tension, making sure your pulley mounts/axles are solid, reducing mass on your moving gantries etc). If after all of this, you find you can't get raise your printing accel as much as you want, you can always use your slicer to vary it by feature type (I know PusaSlicer, Cura and IdeaMaker all have this at least). That way, you can set much higher accelerations for infill, but drop it for internal/external perimeters to maintain quality. In Cura & IdeaMaker, you can also do the same with Jerk.

@sirisian-0 maybe the motors just can't go that fast? 2000 steps per mm at 16usteps is quite a lot!

Try dropping the speed, accel and instantaneous speed change (jerk)

In general, those motors are only rated for 0.4A so may not be that suitable for use at high-speed. Have you calculated what your max speed might be for those steppers?

https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Choosing_and_connecting_stepper_motors#Section_Inductance

@pro3d he's meaning add a second sensor. The advantage of this method is that you actively know if the shroud is getting too hot, and you could even set up over temperature warning if it still got too hot with the fan on (or the fan fails!). It also gives you the delayed turn off in on, as itll stay on til the heater has cooled (which may be differentlengths depending on how longs its been on). To me, this is the 'safe' way to monitor this issue, though generally I prefer to avoid designing in potential thermal runaway events where possible.

The Daemon.g option is the firmware only approach you want. It is a script that repeatedly runs in the background, so you can use metacommands (I.e. the RRF built in programming language) to put whatever if/else/while/whatever blocks in to control your fan based off accessing machine data in the object model. You'll need to be on RRF3 and do some reading up on the meta commands which is all on the wiki.

@Nxt-1 I was meaning bolting another aluminium extrusion, either a full 30150 or even just a single 3030 to keep it nice and light. More thinking it might be a lighter weight solution!
One other thing to consider is to do all of the towers slightly differently. That way you'll get some separation of the resonant frequencies so the towers don't interact and further excite each other. I'm guessing you'll get this a bit for free with the concrete though

@breadandbudder check you have assembled the hotend correctly with a decent clearance between the heater block and the heatsink. 9 times out of 10 when I've seen V6's that can't hit temperature it's because the heater block is clamped up tight against the heatsink.

If you're not sure, you can post an image of your hotend here.

Also agree that I'd only really trust the proper branded heater cartridges. I've played with cheaper ones in the past and they are generally smaller and less round so don't clamp as well in the block. I had one fall out during a print once, though will never be sure if that was poor quality part or poor quality assembler...
30w should be plenty for what you need, but a 40w would also be fine. Much above 50w on a v6 can get very hot if you get thermal runaway so I would avoid those unless you are using copper blocks etc to reach real high temperatures (400C plus)

@Ralms so basically, when you called G30 from console, Z was already homed, so the problematic G1 line to move an unhomed axis in your deployprobe.g wasn't an issue? But when calling homez.g with just a G30 in it, the z axis is marked as unhomed before deployprobe.g is called and hence you got the error. Your problematic command was to move z anyway so x and y don't come into it.

My point is that I think the behaviour you're seeing there is fully expected and 100% explainable

@Ralms note that when you call a homing file it first flags the axis as unhomed. My guess is when you did it from command line you had already homed the z axis?

@DonStauffer the PID tuning cycle measures both heating and cooling rates. Its always going to take longer to cool down, especially with the additional insulation, hence the tuning cycle took longer over all despite the heating being slightly faster.

As the bed goes through the tuning cycle it kicks off heat and warms up the air around it, more so if the printer is partially enclosed. This means the cooling rate changes slightly over time. This may happen more with the insulation applied as less heat comes out the first few measurement cycles.

Your tuning took the full default 25 cycles to complete. I'm guessing this is because the cooling rate was changing over time (as explained above), meaning it wanted to use more cycles to collect more data, and hence the warning message you got.
I'm guessing previously it did not need to use as many cycles, so also took less time.

The important thing is how it performs in a print. Does it heat up any faster/slower? Is it stable over a print? Those are all that really matter

@GPetropoulos I notice in your picture that most of your motor connectors are just the black dupont plugs going into the Duet, and that the one proper one has some scorch marks.

Whilst neither of these are a definite source of your fault, they are not ideal. It could be a poor connection in the connector (crimp or pin contact) caused overheating and/or a short? Not much you could do about it now, but it's worth taking the time over the wiring if you invest in a new board

@jens55 that's on the Raise3d Pro I think

@deckingman I've used eSun and Eryone for some things and generally been okay.
If you want UK based though, I'd recommend 3DPRINTZ based in Telford. They don't have so many specialty filaments, but I've always been impressed with their PLA and PETG

@Charlie if you've narrowed it down to the stepper midband resonance (which I'm inclined to agree with), then your options for tuning are limited.

Your stepper is basically acting as a spring damper with a natural frequency that is excited at that speed range. The stiffness comes from the magnetic interaction in the coil, and the mass is the rotational inertia of the stepper. If you increase the stepper current you may effectively make the stepper stiffer and so push the resonance to a higher frequency, else lower current and additing a mass disk to the stepper my drop the resonance to a lower speed/frequency and potentially damp it out a little.

If that doesn't work then either try mounting the steppers on some anti-vibration mounts, or buy some different steppers.

When I built my first machine, the sides of the steppers were butted up against part of the frame, meaning any vibrations were transmitted straight though causing noise. Pulling them out 1mm removed that transfer path and quietened things down a bit

@droftarts I'd say the general idea of CAN is brilliant and massively simplifies the setup over older non-CAN printers.

However the mix of different connector types used and mix of 2-wire and 4-wire adds some confusion and complexity. The simplicity of the RJ connectors on the 6XD and 3HC is brilliant, but try adding a Mini5+ or toolboards in there and you're back to fiddly crimps or burning yourself with solder sleeves. I basically had to wire up my toolchanger twice because of hard to trace issues and intermittent connection problems when I made up my first set of cables.

My preference would have been for Duet to supply a set of standard length cable options. Even if they were excessively long for my build, I think a few coils of properly made cables would be preferable to the bundle of home-made mess on either end I have on my toolboard connectors.

@gnydick I'd suggest trying to give us a bit more information if you want some help. We're not mind readers!

https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/5909/guide-for-posting-requests-for-help

At the very least, I'd suggest providing:

1. Firmware version
2. Config, relevant homing and tool change files
3. Steps to recreate

You say it only happens after a fresh reboot. Does that mean only on the first tool pickup? What about when it happens from homing? Have you tried running each axis homing separately to see which is the offending axis?