Thanks, you are so quick

If you don't isolate the thermocouple from the heater block then it is likely to pick up noise. Also, heater cartridges occasionally fail with a short between the element and the heater block, so unless you isolate the thermocouple you risk getting a short between the heater voltage and the thermocouple input.

I recommend that you get the E3D cartridge thermocouple and compatible heater block, then you can be sure of isolation and good thermal contact. You may wish to buy the E3D silicone sleeve at the same time.

You’re welcome I’m glad I was able to help.

Ah yes i should have known/remembered "of 255" thing, 0.5 it is then and a lot better is sounds too
All 3 PWM outputs working just fine now
Thanks

Ah, I see the problem - I was misreading my data sheet by a factor of ten. So the numbers made it look like there was a huge advantage to using two high temperatures; turns out it helps a little bit and only throws the room-temperature reading off by a few degrees.

Okey, think I will go with the bed.g solution then.
Thanks for clarifying

Well you certainly couldn't miss it though LOL

I agree with this before, but i watched closely the dice project from Rene Jurack where he tested lot of setup to finish with high value. I made my tests in this way.
For the extruder high value i cannot explain clearly why they gave me better result…

Thanks Stephen but I'm in the uk. I just had to pay a small fortune for an ssr from a reliable source (rs components) I figured in the long run it was cheaper than potentially buying fakes and having to replace.

Ok, this is good to know! I will check and update the cartridges in all of my printers. No need playing with fire!

Ok, sorry i re-upload firmware + duet server and rebooting all my wifi device and now it works.

Thanks for your fast reply.

Walls used to look like that for me back when I was using Slic3r, but it looked fine when using Cura or Simplify3D. I suspect it was some setting that caused overextrusion. So you might want to check any extrusion multiplier you're using and your extruder steps per mm, etc.

OK, good news, managed to tune my bed heater. Set the PWM to 0.2 and it managed to complete the tuning cycle.
It turns out, one of my mistakes was adding too many statements. Once I removed the max temp it sailed through. (40 mins or so)

Now it is stable as a rock.
So for me, this problem is solved.

@dc42, @Sniffle
The old setup just used the default PID settings in the firmware.
I hope to test this weekend and auto tune with the external fan running.

Thanks for your help

its aluminium with cork insulators with a PCB heater with glass on top. the pcb is held in place with screws to prevent shifting, and thermal pads preven the glass from shifting on the pcb

as to the axis binding, all axis move freely by hand without any binding, and can be moved faster than the printer in short jerking motions without any type of problem as well

P.S. /i have the hardest time getting the wifi to remember which access point to use, even though mine is the only one in the vicinity, following the directions of the wiki of course. on the following code in between every wifi server shutdown and restart i connect to the duet wifi access point and setup my router access point info then shut down the wifi server and restart it,

>>>M552 S0 SENDING:M552 S0 WiFi server stopped >>>M552 S1 SENDING:M552 S1 WiFi server starting up DuetWiFiServer version 1.02 Flash size 4194304, free RAM 33288 bytes, WiFi Vcc 3.31V, host name: duetwifi, reset reason: Turned on by main processor WiFi is running as an access point with name DuetWiFi >>>M552 S0 SENDING:M552 S0 WiFi server stopped >>>M552 S1 SENDING:M552 S1 WiFi server starting up DuetWiFiServer version 1.02 Flash size 4194304, free RAM 33288 bytes, WiFi Vcc 3.31V, host name: duetwifi, reset reason: Turned on by main processor WiFi is running as an access point with name DuetWiFi

Thanks David,

I'll set it to the minimum that doesn't cause a slow temperature rise fault.

Ian

I think it's down to personal preference. I used to use slic3r until the newer versions kept crashing under Windows. Reluctantly I spent £99 for S3D, which I find abysmal for switching between two different types of printer, but otherwise ok. Last time I tried Cura it had a bug that caused print artefacts, so I haven't used it recently. The new version 2.0 Cura doesn't appear to support delta printers.

Apart from using relative extrusion for the Duet, most slicer settings depend on the mechanics of your machine much more than on the firmware you run.

@peridot:

For some reason the firmware decided my hot end wasn't heating fast enough, declared a fault, and shut down the hot end heater. But nothing else stopped: the head kept moving and the print started - with a stone-cold hot end. Trying to shove filament through a cold hot end is bad for the printer. This is not a good response to thermal misbehaviour.

It's already on the firmware change list to stop the print when a heater fault is detected. Meanwhile, cold extrusion prevention will kick in when the temperature has dropped at enough, at 170C AFAIR.

If the name you entered during WiFi setup is coral, then coral.local is how you address it via mdns. The name defined in config.g is not currently used for network accessing.

Missing parameters are given default values, and these are always the existing values where that makes sense.