Topics created by Pertti

@elmoret Done.
Meanwhile I made a quick repair by recycling used heatblock and thermistor. I also sealed the tube parts with silver soldier 20231121_142016.jpg

@o_lampe The leakage is not a problem anymore. We use hydraulic fittings (material: titanium) for water and oil produced with SLS printers.
For a nozzle, the surface smoothness will be the biggest problem.

@Pertti I had a dodgy revo six heatercore, simply shot them an email and they sent me out a new one!

@jay_s_uk said in How to park the last tool?:

T-1

It works. Thnks!

@dc42 Thanks! I try this:
...add command G1 R2 X0 Y0 Z2 Fxxx followed by G1 R2 Z0 Fxxx to the end of your tpost#.g files...
Looks like it works. Maybe better if the last leg before the new-tool-print-start could travel i mm higher, now it is scratching the print a little. I'm using the rapid change hotends an they can bend easily when touching the print.
Here I want to ask how to set standby temperatures to tools. I did not find such a feature in Prusa.
And how to tell the machine to put back the last tool after finishing the job.

@pertti I have used two 5015 fans in parallel with no problems.

@pertti
Now I got the idea, thanks.

@pertti said in Suggestion for temperature calibration by filament:

... Maybe someone has already provided such filament ...

There is such a filament.
See it here in this YouTube Video.

But whether you can use it to adjust the temperatures of the individual tools... I have no idea.
Maybe there is a thermal imaging camera (Flir) more suitable ?

@phaedrux 20220426_124359.jpg
Thank You all! First testprints going on! So far so good. I removed the z endstop and replaced it with z-probe.

@alankilian 20220309_181251.jpg
Now printing chain links. A terrain model for modular building modules lies in front of the printer.
BTW I have no idea what is a reasonable max speed and acceleration for this kind of configuration.
And is there something else I could implement here?
Z-Probe and 2 end stops for z axis could be nice. My custom toolchanger has end stop stall detection, why not here?

@CNCModeller I'm currently playing around with used hoverboard motors and controllers.
There is a github group that has hacked the controller board and offers firmware with FOC, too.
Can't compare them yet with simpleFOC, but in one point they are ahead of them which is interesting for my wind-turbine project. (regen-braking)

@phaedrux Yess!

@pertti I have my globals in a file called variables, and I call that as a macro from config.g before using the first one. There is a bit of an issue with globals in that you can't define one that already exists, so you may need to wrap them in an existence check to set rather than define if you want to reload config.g without restarting the printer.

@dc42 Now I removed all scripts from Cura and that was the answer to my problem.

@phaedrux
Maybe the laser doesn't have to work layer by layer, but you can't expect to engrave (traffic) signs in a street between fully printed skyscrapers. The focus of a laser allows (needs) a certain distance to the object, so angled engraving has to be done at the right time.

@pertti said in Duet2 wifi RRF3 homing mixture:

First I tried M500 but something happened and it did no saving.

@pertti said in Duet2 wifi RRF3 homing mixture:

config-override has same lines:

The config-override.g having the same lines means that it did in fact save correctly.

@phaedrux
Error: Heating fault on heater 1. temperature rising much more slowly than expected 1.5C/sec
My machine is a testbed. After some printhead changes I noticed that the drive X stopped working. Then I added the breakout board and connected drive 5. Soon after that I also noticed that the heater 1 is out. Maybe some shortcut, I don´t know. Sometimes many things happen at the same time.
The voltage of H1 changed very little, some mV when activated.
The thermistor reacted my hand warm touch.

So perhaps RRF3 would be an interesting start point for further studies.
But that´s an other thread. Thanks anyway.

@droftarts
Yes! Now I´m happy. And I will create one thread for every issue. Good moderating, then everyone can find issues easily aftewards.

@pertti said in Magnetic building plate on glass?:

@fcwilt Thank You for answers. I´ll try it. Looks like no return, especially when it is hard to remove afterwards.

Based on my experience that part the sticks to the aluminum is impossible to remove without damaging the part.

The aluminum comes out fine.

Frederick

Now working!. I think the problem was this: mapping the y-steppers to drive 2 and z stepper to drive 1. In addition, the z motor is bigger and needs more amps to move.
The drive 0 was hotter than it´s neighbours allthough not in use. Maybe some damage?