@zapta It's most likely the Trianglelabs D500 thermistor.

Datasheet in here:
https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/24306/duet-2-wifi-problem-with-the-t-d500-thermistor

@jnofsinger there is a "minimum acceleration" parameter in the M593 command. Lower values will cause input shaping to be used in more situations, at the expense of increased print time.

The default damping factor is 0.1, however on one of my machines I observed that setting the damping factor to 0.05 or 0 gave better results. In particular, EI shapers may work better with damping factor 0.

Pressure advance works separately from input shaping, although input shaping affects PA somewhat. So you may want to tune PA again when you have established what input shaper you want to use.

@messiahman so probably best to step through the issues you are seeing (using some test prints that target just one issue) and then if you can't find the setting you need to modify then we can of course point you in the right direction.

here are some links to help you get started:
M92: Allows programming of steps per mm for motor drives.
M566: Sets the maximum allowable speed change (sometimes called 'jerk speed') of each motor when changing direction.
M201: Sets the acceleration that axes can do in mm/second^2 for print moves.
M203: Sets the maximum feedrates that axes can do in mm/min.

https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Tuning_the_heater_temperature_control
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Setting_motor_currents
and for later on:
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Using_mesh_bed_compensation
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Pressure_advance

This guide mentions a Maestro and its based on slightly older RRF but the tuning steps will be basically the same
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Guide/Ender+3+Pro+and+Duet+Maestro+Guide+Part+4:+Calibration/40

@jgrouse if the temperature readings have little noise then you can speed up the tuning process by using the Y parameter to reduce the hysteresis. The default value is 5C.

If you want to bypass tuning for now, you can construct a M307 command manually. It sounds to me that your bed heater is using default M307 values for a hot end heater. The default values for a bed heater are:

M307 H0 R0.13 C700 D10

You may find that those values work well enough.

@zapta said in Switch fan between thermostatic and non thermostatic modes:

@deckingman said in Switch fan between thermostatic and non thermostatic modes:

One way to do it would be to change the thermostatic settings

Can this be done also by setting the fan's min/max speeds? E.g. 0-100 for thermostatic vs 100-100 to force cooling.

Possibly - but I might be misunderstanding what it is you are trying to say. AFAIK, and the last time I tested it, the min/max speeds (L and X values) override the variable speed which would apply to thermostatic mode. For example, if one used H50:100 then the speed would ramp up proportionally from 0 speed at 50 deg C to full speed at 100 deg C. But if one also set an L values of say 0.5, then what would happen is that the fan would run at 50% speed at all temperatures from 50 degrees to 75 degrees, then ramp up to 100% speed between 75 and 100 deg C. At least that is how it use to work the last time I tried it.

So I guess if one were to change the "L" value from say 0 for "normal" thermostatic cooling to say 1.0 for forced cooling, this would effectively change the minimum fan speed to 100%. BUT that is unlikely to work for me because the L parameter only applies when a non-zero fan speed is requested. In this case, between 50 and 100 deg C. In my case, the thermostatic control range would be from about 150 deg upwards. So any temperature below this would mean that the requested speed is zero and therefore the L parameter would not be acted upon. What I need to happen at the end of a print is for the fan to run at full speed all the way down to about 50 deg C, but then be reset to thermostatic cooling from 150 deg upwards for any subsequent prints.

@prior123 said in Z axis not homing:

; bed.g
; called to perform automatic bed compensation via G32
;
; generated by RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool v3.2.3 on Tue Mar 16 2021 15:54:40 GMT+0000 (Greenwich Mean Time)
M561 ; clear any bed transform
G29 ; probe the bed and enable compensation

Strictly speaking you are not using bed.g as it was intended.

G32 is the command for bed leveling, be it manual or automatic. G32 invokes bed.g.

G29 is the command for mesh bed compensation. G29 invokes mesh.g

The DWC has menu items for G32 and G29. If you follow the convention above then the actions performed using the DWC will match what the DWC menu items say.

What you have will certainly work, it is just "out of sync" with the conventions and the DWC menu items.

To follow the convention you would simply create the file mesh.g and move into it the commands you currently have in bed.g.

What would i put for the M557 if it wasnt using an S value? i only put an S value because it feels easier to understand if i know the distance

For example If, instead of Snn, I put P20 the firmware generates a 20 x 20 grid. If I put P20:10 it generates a 20 x 10 grid.

To me the number of points is of greater interest than the exacting spacing of the points.

Frederick

@o_lampe so far that is looking good....

I moved from a geared extruder that was relay hard to thread to this one - but didn't increase the current, despite the obvious need to have more torque!

Fingers crossed....

@droftarts Success Thank you!!!

@dc42 Thank you!

@alankilian The motors aren't getting hot anymore for some reason, I did absolutely nothing to fix them. It's great that it seems to have fixed itself, but this happening randomly is not going to be a great thing... Also, my Y axis now will not sensorless home properly, even at a S value of 60, it's still just moving about a mm and thinking it's homed, otherwise, motion works great.

@t3p3tony https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B088W8WMTB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

@taconite ahh ok so if you probe too close to the edge of the delta radius then that may cause issues, (the arms are almost straight down or straight out).

You are now getting much better results, and can see if you get much improvement with 17 points over 7. I have a slightly smaller bed on my delta and use 10 points (6 outer ring, 3 in an inner ring. 1 in the center).

@dc42 said in Heater 0 appears to be over-powered.:

@joek the warning is coming from the M307 command in config.g. That M307 command should be removed because you have the correct one in config-override.g, which was saved there when you ran M500. Or you can copy the one from config-override.g to config.g.

i had to copy it from the config-override to config. remove or a ; at the beginning of the line in the config was not enough

Looking at the photo, could the spacer pillars that link the ballnut mount to the linear slide be flexing slightly?

The near spacer in the photo looks to have a twist in it.

I'd try it with power off and the digital vernier over one screw, turning the motor very slowly each way by hand and see if the motion follows exactly or not.

The spacers may work better as tall blocks rather than just tubes, so it's impossible for them to rock.

So here is what I tried in the last few days:

The ripples have the exact same spacing when printing with 0.1mm as with 0.3mm. The ripples are spread further apart if I speed up the print to 160% print speed
I interpret both of these results that the extruder is not at fault but instead it's something with the print head.

To tackle the 26hz vibrations, I tried to remove things from the print head. First the two fans on either side, then the blTouch. Both didn't change anything in this regard. Then I removed the hotend, leaving only the base with the two bearings. This shifted the vibration towards a higher frequency, peaking at 36hz.
barePrintHead.jpg
Then I removed the print head entirely and put the accelerometer to the exact spot where the print head was on the rod that moves in Y-direction. There were no vibration around 26hz
noPrintHead.jpg
Then I designed a completely new print head which was wider (two linear bearing in each axis instead of one) and with the hotend/bltouch higher up in order to get the center of mass closer to the rods. The result (completely assembled) was disheartening as it had the very same vibrations at 25hz as the old print head had.
newPrintHead.jpg
I'm now considering to create and test a setup with direct drive in order to see how a much heavier setup (with the extruder+motor on the print head) affects my situation.
Still I find it curious that it only affects movement in Y direction. The bearings are identical ones (LM8LUU), the rod along the X axis (driving the movement in y direction) is 556mm long, the other one only 450mm but as both are 8mm diameter hardened steel and the print head is quite light I feel like they shouldn't flex enough to cause my problems.

Now to the 80hz oscillation: I read on this site that GT2 belts should be tensioned to 6-8 pounds which is 26.6-35-5 Newton. I measured the tension on my setup acoustically using the android app "BeltTensionMeter". There I learned that my belts were at around 80-90N. Seems I had a slightly wrong feeling about how tense it should be when I set up the system... So I re-tensioned all belts to the recommended 35N. Then, to make the motors run even more smoothly, I changed microstepping for X and Y axes from 64 to 128 microsteps.
Sadly, both changes didn't affect the 80hz oscillations at all.

Currently, I don't consider the 80hz to be a big problem. The visible ripples on my prints are 2mm apart if I print with 50mm/s print speed (as good as I can measure it...). This correlates very much with my 26hz problem as (50mm/s)/(26/s) = 1.9mm. The 80hz would produce 0.625mm wide ripples at 50mm/s and I don't see any of that kind on my prints.

@juliann sorry i have been afk.. a couple of other suggestions-

you might want to consider seperating homing/leveling out from you print file.
make a seperate macro and use that at the start of a print 'session'

that way if you have to cancel and restart a print, you are not going through the whole procedure of homing/leveling.

you mentioned trying to print with PETG- i suspect you came across some old posts about how hard and finnicky it can be. most of that advice is just rubbish. dont get intimidated.

petg wants slower and no cooling. I use the same filament profile for PETG as PLA only temps are 235 and cooling 0. I may have bumped retract/destring a hair.

@jay_s_uk said in Collecting LIS3DH data outside of RRF:

@t3p3tony you can't use previously collected data with the input shaper plugin

...although you could use it with the accelerometer plugin by uploading the .csv file to the sys/accelerometer folder.

@chownki thanks for confirming that!

@elko Your link points to this thread. You can either deactivate a tool by sending T-1 or you can turn off the corresponding heater(s) with M568 P0 A0.