So this is now fixed! The mosfets were damaged. The ones I had are black so they are very difficult to see the damage till I took the board out of the printer.

I ordered the newer ones from Digikey before the storm, so they Monday.

I can say this is the first time I replaced such a small part on the board, but with enough patience and practice on a scrap board it is completely do-able without expensive gear. I just have a regular $50.00 iron and a very small tip.. I then just dragged it over the ends and the solder stuck!

it was just pretty strange the under-voltage issue with the broken mosfets... not sure how long they were blown as the heater fan I have is 5v and it was pulling 4.4v for awhile.

Thanks again for your help!

Jim

@dc42

I have a very sturdy ender3 frame with corner blocks and all wheels removed for rails. I also have removed the glass bed to reduce weight. Tests run with

M203 X12000 Y12000 Z500 E1200 ; Set maximum speeds (mm/min)
M201 X3000 Y3000 Z250 E250 ; Set accelerations (mm/s^2)
M566 X300 Y300 Z20 E600 ;jerk

After running multiple tests with ei3 and zvddd is that canceling the high frequency in the graph produces the best overall result. ( I have not done Y yet only X)

Here is no shaping and speeds from 30, 45, 60, 75, 90, 105, 120, 135, and 150mms for both X and Y

here is the best I can get so far using ZVDDD 78.9

here is the backside view of ZVDDD 78.9

very impressive overall happy with ZVDDD and the higher frequency cancel. I will try again with the mount on Y to see if I can tune Y itself. Although not part of the latest beta firmware in my case I could use a separate Y frequency cancel.

I might try to play around with sampling as you suggested in the other thread to smooth at lower speeds. I normally print around 75/90mms but many smaller prints can't get up to speed so I do need a better cancel at lower also.

Jim

@dc42 said in what to tune out with input shaping:

G1 X-50 G4 S2 G1 X50 F20000 M400 M956 P0 S1000 A0

I have 3.4.0beta6 installed right now. That command definitely showed a different kind of graph.

using ei3 and tuning out the 78.2 peak produces this result

here is zvddd tuned

I assume that is what is desired for input shaping... no large spikes? I don't think ei3 is the best shaper to use, i'll try with others also.

Thanks
Jim

Hello everyone,

I have hooked up an accelerator board to the duet and it is pretty awesome. Just wanted to verify while running (running latest beta firmware)

G1 X-50 G4 S2 M956 P0 S1000 A0 G4 P10 G1 X50 F20000

with no input shaping I get this result

I assume that we should ignore the start and end of sample (100mhz)? So the object is to have a pretty straight line between those 2 points?

When setting input shaping to ei3 f20 I get this line

and setting it to ei3 f40 I get this line

should I keep trying different input shapers and f numbers? is it better to have a flatter line on the low end? 20mhz or in the middle/end like 40mhz produces for me? or should I try to tune out the 100mhz line instead? (not sure if any input shaper can do that though?)

I know at the end of the day whatever looks best is what I should try in a print, just trying to understand the tricks/process of tuning itself.

Thanks,
Jim

@dc42

I am trying them now and see that ei2 did a much better job at getting rid of the X and Y overall. I noticed there is 1 place where the ripples are still around which I am testing with zvd/d next.

I assume there is a min speed which input shaping needs to happen? the low end of my tests are all the same at 30mm/s which isn't good.

Is there any tuning with speeds left after input shaping in general? I guess pressure advanced isn't something to use either or does that still help retraction?

Thanks for your time and effort in making reprap/duets very relevant and fun

In the quest to have the perfectly tuned printer I started playing with input shaping on my duet wifi. here is what I did to test and what machine I have

ender3 skeleton with .9 degree steppers, lighter bed, direct drive hero me5, dual axis, rails on x, rails on y, 16 tooth pulley (yeah I like to play with upgrades).

set
M203 X12000 Y12000 Z500 E1200 ; Set maximum speeds (mm/min)
M201 X3000 Y3000 Z250 E250 ; Set accelerations (mm/s^2)
M566 X300 Y300 Z20 E600 ;jerk

and used the ringing_tower.stl from Klipper at .2 layer height in vase mode using a .35 nozzle.

all tests performed for 20 layers starting at 30, 45, 60, 75, 90, 105, 125, 140, 165mm/s (I usually print at 60)

the singular picture is with no input shaping... ghosting even at 30

here is a picture of no input shaping, input shaping DAA at 24 and input shaping DAA at 42 (which I calculated using math)

to my eyes any input shaping was better than nothing, but the calculated DAA 42 at 90mm/s print speed came out the best and it is really noticeable. still a tiny bit of ghosting left.

I still have ringing at Y which I don't think can be fixed? I think the math would come out a bit different as the ripples appear longer.
they are not as bad though as X was.

What else could I try to improve quality? would the new beta code be different with ZVA?
is there a reason to tune Jerk values would it even help get rid of the last ripples?

It is amazing the print quality you can achieve with a Duet... I have had this board for 5 years now and it has just been amazing.

Thanks,
Jim

@the-big

I would verify the exp.heater3 pin is in use for the BLTouch. I am using heater7 otherwise it is the same. does it work differently when you "homeall" vs "homez"?

the heater rising too slowly is an known message and you can fix it by PID tuning (the better explanation is on the duet website)

My fan line is pretty similar to yours other than using S1.0 instead of S1 (doubt that would make a difference). Do the fans still work though?

Hello,

I have been researching some options for Dual Z with a Duet Wifi. I don't really expect it to do too much for my printer, but I do love tinkering with the mechanical options

I think there are 3 options for the Duet Wifi?

• use the secondary port (located under Z slot)

• use E1

• use a splitter cable

To use the full advantage of Z compensation you would need to use E1 as an independent Z2?
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Bed_levelling_using_multiple_independent_Z_motors

Has anyone used E1 with multiple probe points before? how well does it work for you?

Also I would assume the splitter cable although is convenient is overall the worst option of the bunch since we have onboard options with the Duet.

Would also rather not have to crash home similar to what I hear the Prusa printers and at least my Ender5+ has to do to keep everything in sync from time to time. That is why the multi z probing has peaked my interest.

Thanks
Jim

So this is now fixed! The mosfets were damaged. The ones I had are black so they are very difficult to see the damage till I took the board out of the printer.

I ordered the newer ones from Digikey before the storm, so they Monday.

I can say this is the first time I replaced such a small part on the board, but with enough patience and practice on a scrap board it is completely do-able without expensive gear. I just have a regular $50.00 iron and a very small tip.. I then just dragged it over the ends and the solder stuck!

it was just pretty strange the under-voltage issue with the broken mosfets... not sure how long they were blown as the heater fan I have is 5v and it was pulling 4.4v for awhile.

Thanks again for your help!

Jim

@Phaedrux

I will investigate and report the results.

@Phaedrux

That would certainly explain why the errors would never clear unless the printer was powered off. Thanks for the explanation.