@Rowen can you copy and paste what happens in the Yat terminal?

Personally, I have never been happy with Yat. On Windows, try PuTTY instead: https://teamgloomy.github.io/putty.html

@o_lampe :

Right. In that case you can resolve this thread.
Thanks.

@T3P3Tony @jay_s_uk

Hi Guys,

Thank you for that.

Ah, okay, so I'm taking the information for the sensor from the S2 part of the config.g rather than the actual board input connection "Temp1".
Edit.
Which I beleieve means changing;
M118 S{"Message to Show: " ^ sensors.analog[1].lastReading ^ " C"} L1
to
M118 S{"Temp 2: " ^ sensors.analog[2].lastReading ^ " C"} L1
Thank you again for your help and advice.

Dizzwold.

@T3P3Tony
Note that the issue with my other printer still exists and is giving me many many hiccups. I am not too concerned with the temperature bumps any more but the hiccup issue concerns me.

@moth4017 i am tried and it's levelling prefect.
thank you for you support 😊

@droftarts OK. I did exactly like You, and... it works. No idea why could not get that working yesterday. Thanks.

@Adamrobot
This has nothing to do with a problem in the power supply unit.
You have to check whether the heating cartridge is made for 12V or 24V.
Either check the marking on the sleeve or measure the internal resistance.
In general 24v supply voltage would be an advantage. However, you then also have to replace the heating bed and maybe the fans.

tool change macros would be appropriate. You can find example macros for that as well.

@R006 If the belts and pulleys are not properly arranged you can see distorted prints. Does the distortion get worse when prints are near corners of the bed plate? Can you post a picture of the XY stage belt arrangement looking down on the machine?

@Exerqtor
I just had the idea to make a bed-slinger plasma table where the torch only does x-motions and the bed is the metal-sheet.
That way the waterbed could be very small and the bed frame could be hinged or foldable.

@axiom

You can use G92 to sync up the logical position with the actual physical position.

But if you can move past the endstop until it is no longer triggered you would have to insure that every Z homing operation began with a relative move to be sure you were no longer past the endstop. And that move could cause a problem if you happened to be near the max end of travel.

As you can see I deal with that problem by insuring that endstop can be triggered all the way to the end of travel regardless of where it is initially triggered.

Frederick

@dc42 Thank you. I will have to spend some time with the code, this is very helpful.

@axiom

What do you mean when you say "If I set my z-offset at a certain point"?

With the deviation you have in your bed you are going to need to use Mesh Bed Compensation which is what the height map is needed for.

You mentioned "bed leveling" and I don't know if you mean true bed leveling using G32 or are simply using the wrong term for Mesh Bed Compensation.

Are you setting the Z=0 Datum using G30 are a fixed location like the center of the bed?

You must set the Z=0 Datum before you create the height map and before you load the height map at the start of a print.

Also it is best to create the height map at the same bed temperature that would be used during printing.

Frederick

@droftarts Thank you Ian - works now

@OwenD Thaks a lot!!!

@axiom said in Position change after mesh bed compensation (G29):

@axiom Oh I saw fcwilt's reply too late....thanks! But again when do I use the G29 command and when the G32? Unfortunately, I can't do anything with the translation into my language

To use them as intended:

G29 runs mesh.g G32 runs bed.g

The file mesh.g is associated with the feature known as Mesh Bed Compensation. This feature tries to compensate for bed irregularities during printing. The file should contain the commands needed to probe the bed and create the height map.

The file bed.g is associated with the feature known as Bed Leveling, though as discussed it should be termed Bed Tramming and you may see folks refer to it that way. The file should contain the commands needed to probe the bed and "level" it using either automatic or manual modes. Manual Mode requires 2 or more "thumb screws" which can raise/lower the bed at different points around perimeter of the bed, say, Left Rear, Center Front, Right Rear. Automatic Mode requires 2 or more Z steppers and the replaces the manual adjustment of the thumb screws with automatic adjustment of the Z steppers.

Here is an image of a new bed that is being fitted to one of my printers. The three "tabs" extending from the main bed area are where the three thumb screws attach to level the bed when using Manual Mode:

SAFPRO Bed.jpg

Here is a quick-and-dirty video showing my printer which is fitted with 3 Z steppers for auto leveling:

Automatic Bed Leveling Demonstartion

Frederick

I found the single 5V pwm output limiting, plus to get the most precise control, an analog 5v fed to the CPAP blower driver board is most accurate. Tried a few ways to do that and settled on this board https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079BH3SHX?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details -- it's powered by 24v, will take the pwm output of a regular fan output and create a clean 0-5v analog output. If you run it at 100-200hz you can get the low end to be around .5v, and that's as slow as the CPAP blower can go. I can go the full spectrum and have perfect output control. Not sure of another source for these boards, but I will use them for duet and for klipper configs since they're simple and the best part is the fan control is super accurate.