@danzaywer said in Manual Bed Leveling with COREXZ:

This kinematics does not support auto-calibration

Looking at the source code, it seems like CoreXZ does not allow for manual bed leveling assistant to be setup because it only is active for kinematics derived from ZLeadscrewKinematics with 2 or more leadscrews (and kinematics with their own Auto-Calibration like linear delta).

@dc42 this seems to be a suboptimal limitation on Core Kinematics/belted z designs because it also seems to block usage of manual bed leveling. Should we lodge a feature request for v3.5 to get a way to allow for more kinematics to go through manual bed leveling assistant?

Hi Deckingman,

Thx a lot for that detailed explanation. This will help me a lot.......

Best regards

Danijel

@reefwarrior

Since homing Z with a probe can led to situations like you describe all of my printers include a Z endstop sensor which allows for unambiguous Z homing. No more Z up, Z down when homing X and Y. Just home Z and leave at a suitable position like Z=10 then home X and home Y. Since the Z position is always known there are no issues with probing with Z too low.

Frederick

Taper is described here: https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/M376

yes, you can add a single G30 at bed center to set Z0 to your bed.g and then load the heightmap with G29 S1.

However, that won't help for power loss recovery, you would still need to set Z0 in some way while the print is still on the bed. This can be done manually or with a Z max endstop. G29 S1 can be used after that to load the heightmap.

@pro3d

While it would seem to make sense to allow that it doesn't work. I have asked a couple of times for it to be made to work that way but so far no changes.

To probe a single point you have to use a G1 to position then the single G30.

Frederick

@supraguy I believe splitting the axis into Y and U is the only way.

@bot said in XY Acceleration / Speed / Resolution on a Delta:

https://reprap.org/mediawiki/images/b/b5/Rostock_Delta_Kinematics_3.pdf

It's been a while, but thanks! That's exactly what I was looking for.

Let's see if I got this right:

if you care about XY accuracy don't print in the center but along the long sides. For Z go for the middle.

If you need equal accuracy on 3 parts either print them one by one or rotate each them by 120 degrees and place them at opposite towers.

Did I get that right?

Now that I know the expected max errors for different parts of the bed, is there something similar regarding resolution?

@phaedrux Yess!

@ctilley79 Sorry can't help with the current, what I can say is that I've had similar issues when using 0.9degree steppers (I've tried several types) with both TMC5160 and TMC2209 drivers, so I'd be interested to hear if anyone finds a solution.

@dc42 Thanks for looking.

So the jerky nature is only during the travel moves to and from the print location. The small elements of printing in the middle of the file are fine.

You can hear the feature in the mesh and no mesh linked videos earlier in the thread.

The bed is a 600mm mirror clamped at the edge so some of the bed lump is due to that. I'd need to apply a vacuum to pull the centre down. I also think there is an element of my radius arm running lower towards the bed center as it's only supported at one end but I don't have enough fine adjustment to remove what's left. Hence why I am using mesh.

I've tried increased z jerk and speed settings to no avail. See earlier in the thread. Currently I disable mesh in my gcode rather than using the taper function, full disable mesh gets rid of the issue where as mesh taper doesn't.

I don't suppose that I'm running a prototype 1HCL driver on the bed in open loop mode makes any difference?

Anyway thanks for looking. If you have any other thoughts I'd love to hear them.

All the best
Barry M

@phaedrux

Oh god I was wrong, the flavour was repetier... I feel too dumb hahahaha

Well changed it to reprap and it solved the issue, thanks for the help phaedrux!!!

@erice555 use the built-in levelling mechanism. See https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Bed_levelling_using_multiple_independent_Z_motors.

@mikeabuilder

I finally found time to do your very helpful scientific experiment.
Was to complicated for me. 😄

But for anyone else having this problem:

My z axis minimum was set to z0

Changing M208 for Z0 to Z-2 in config.g was finally solving the problem.

@atall thank you all for your great and quick help, tips and tricks.

After 10 months of guessing and time consumable troubleshooting I am finally able to use my most expensive printer!

hooray!

@fotomas said in Good results silencing the Hemera:

Noctua 40x40x20

I found this worked much better on my titan aero without adding much noise.

@dc42 ahhh, I did see that but didn't think it applied in this situation. Thanks for pointing that out mate