I guess I can after I get everything up and going

@timcurtis67:

You need to allow cold extrudes (temporary of course). So you can use the extruder without a hotend attached.

M302: Allow cold extrudes
Parameters
This command can be used without any additional parameters.
Pnnn Cold extrude allow state (RepRapFirmware)
Examples
M302 ; Report current state
M302 P1 ; Allow cold extrusion (this is what you type in)

thank you for the tip, grazie timcurtis67

@dc42:

Have you read https://duet3d.com/wiki/Calibrating_a_delta_printer ?

Hi,

No I had not found that section - it appears to answer all of my questions.

Got to hand it to you all - you have some first rate documentation - one of the reasons I am rebuilding all of my printers with DuetWifi boards.

Thanks much.

Frederick

I made a lot of more tests and for me the problem seems to be related to the speed difference between infill and walls or between inner outer wall(s).
When printing the object with constant speed, even high one (e.g. 80 mm/s), for all features the quality is better than with different infill/wall speed.

Also printing more walls is not helpful but identical speed for all walls will improve the quality as well.
In summary my printer, hotend (E3D V6) or settings can not handle speed changes well with respect of constant extrusion.

As far I understand pressure advance should be a solution for such issues however not for me (tried various settings).

My solution for now: infill at 80 mm/s, three walls at 40 mm/s.

How does the external input manage the stop, feed,retract?

That looks to be a very good way of tuning pressure advance. Thanks for sharing.

cr8tor,

I ran into the same situation with my T3P3 Kossel XL for a couple weeks (2 issues resolved a week a part)

Pulley not tight enough (slipping) Pulley not on correct position of shaft (too far in or out)

Once I corrected those build / mechanical issues, flawless with near consistent 0.017 std dev between calibration runs; no bed mesh compensation needed.

Thanks, I'll put the T0 into the config.
My intention is to use the web interface, but I print in a garage and my WiFi signal is weak. I haven't got a network cable in there yet. I am looking to use a WiFi extender, but I'm keen to get my 3d printer back up and running again. Anyway the advice dc42 gave me has fixed the heater problem. So time to get steppers working now.
Thanks again

David,
You would know best,

I think it would be very easy to set up with some M commands to have the end stops to act as the Z probe.

so you can home the delta,
the test each end stop one at a time,

the G code would:

1. select the end stop in test to act as the Z probe ( so we can still use the G30 P command,)
2. configure to run the motor reverse for the end stop being tested.
3. run the selected G30 P# S-1x number of times then report back the mean and deviation ( this would only activate the one motor for that end stop)
4. run G code to select the next end stop / motor to be tested and run step 3 again
5. do the next end stop Ect.
6 configure back the to standard settings in the config.g

I would think that with your understanding of how each M command configures things we should be able to do this in this manner described above.

that was just a description and I'm sure it will be more complicated than that but that's the basic idea…

Thanks

~Russ

Well, no error messages or codes, it just kinda decided to run bed leveling starting from away from the endstop and moving toward it. After it scaring me twice, I reset the x probe area to 200 and let it run and it works fine.
My map comes up with the axis indicator(those xyz lines that form a partial box) on the right now instead of the left, kinda confusing at first but it works so I must adapt.
And I did get a perfect first layer so it's definitely functioning right.
I'll mark this as answered because it does work.

I adjusted my voltage to 13.06v (the pot changed tons for just a tiny movement, so I called it good) and my heated bed will now reach 105 C uninsulated by the cork sheet on top, so that's nice. It also heats up to my usually temperatures (60 and 70 C) noticeably faster. I think I'm going to call it good for now.

Thanks, I'll increase the default limit to 288C in the next release.

Ok I figured it out.

It's the T (travel speed) parameter in the M558 command in config,g. Or the speed limits specified by M203 if they are lower.

Ok, thanks, appreciate all the help.

See http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M570:_Configure_heater_fault_detection.

Using this scripting process you could make outside lines to have special accel/jerk and keep the non visible prts at max speed

https://ultimaker.com/en/community/40307-simplify3d-fans-only-on-perimeters?page=last

Juat read the scripting and add the gcodes for each part

Yes, it seems that this was the issue. I've used the tool at reprapfirmware.org but I still don't really understand what the difference is between "Trigger height at Z axis" and "Trigger height on bed" which are shown when i chose de Switch Tab in the Z-Probe section. Both their tooltips are the same and it seems to me that their value should be the same too, so why do I have to configure both?

Anyway, I got it almost working by manually adjusting the configuration file, but on the first try to print something, it failed because the hotend temperature sensor failed. i had the turn the printer off and on again in order to get it working again. Sadly after it failed a second time it went into reading 2000 degress since then. I'm using a PT-100 sensor and the daughter board and i even switched to the second RTD Pin but it's still reading 2000degrees. I've even replaced the sensor with no luck. Could it be that the daughter board is broken now or might it be the Duet itself?

Thanks again!

hopefully my red head sacrifice takes hold and the gods will be pleased with me. we'll find out tomorrow, I don't wish to pursue any 3d printing tonight.