@droftarts thanks for your help. Here’s pics. I have .9 motors on the x and y axis. Lgx lite withe the steel gears upgrade. Hi win Linear rails on x y z.

@fcwilt i will pass that on to @droftarts

I suggest you retune your heater as a tool so that it can take the cooling fan into account.

M303 T0 S220 for example

https://docs.duet3d.com/User_manual/Reference/Gcodes#m303-run-heater-tuning

@CNCModeller I'm currently playing around with used hoverboard motors and controllers.
There is a github group that has hacked the controller board and offers firmware with FOC, too.
Can't compare them yet with simpleFOC, but in one point they are ahead of them which is interesting for my wind-turbine project. (regen-braking)

I used my multimeter to check the thermistor, and it was good. I ended up redoing all the crimps on the heater line, and it is back up and running again. I did not see any loose connections. Maybe one of the connectors was bad. I replace the hotend with mini Tamiya connectors. Thanks for the guidance.

I'm running the printer through a UPS as we have quite a few second or two power cuts in our village.

Upon closer inspection of the UPS, the low (input) voltage light was on, but input voltage measures 252V. The output voltage of the UPS though is 220V, which is not very impressive.

I've switched the printer to a different UPS that has no lights on and is giving 252V output, so will see how this print goes.

All other connections are tight, and the PSU is giving 24.2v out, so it just may be unhappy with a low input voltage.

Thanks @dc42. That worked.

@dc42 Thanks this is now resolved by David.

@Sevimuelli As I said I don't think leaving it in relative mode is likely to be the cause of this issue, however, having your printer in a different state after a print to after homing does not seem like a good idea.

I wasn't suggesting that you should hide the axis, I was asking if there is any chance that the axis has become hidden and that might be causing the homing problem.

Again I was suggesting that you check the state of the endstop (just in case there is some firmware, electrical or mechanical problem with it - it may have become stuck) as that would result in the behaviour you are seeing.

@o_lampe Are you using the PS autospeed function (it sounds like it if you are setting max speed). I think the various features (like perimeters and outer perimeters) are set to some fraction of the max speed when the feature speed is defined as zero (based on the feature type and other information)? This thread provides a little bit of information: https://forum.prusa3d.com/forum/prusaslicer/autospeed-howto/ as does the linked pr https://github.com/prusa3d/PrusaSlicer/issues/2746 It's not clear to me how these features interact with the extrusion rate, but it certainly looks like you might end up with different speeds in your gcode.

Perhaps one for the PS forum?

piyr9 created this issue in prusa3d/PrusaSlicer open While Using Autospeed, Gap fill is disabled #2746

@gorf32 I've built my own from 1mm thin FR2 and magnetic & ferro-sheets. You can find all of it online.
If I had to build a heated bed again, I'd skip the magnetic sheet and glue the FR2 right onto the cast-aluminum heat spreader.
This stuff holds PLA very well and the part just pops off after the bed temp drops around 5°. I rarely need the flex-stuff anymore.

@dc42 said in Did I just fried the 1LC Toolboard:

@SJI it sounds to me that the 3.3V regulator on the tool board has failed. That regulator powers OUT1, the accelerometer and the analog reference for the ADC. It's possible to replace it using hot air rework equipment. The component reference is U5 and depending on your tool board version the part number is either AP2127K-3.3 or AP7366-W5-7.

Another possibility is that the accelerometer chip has failed and it is shorting out the 3.3V rail.

Cheers. Not having the required tools for smd work, think I'll buy another and have a go later at replacing said 3.3V regulator

@dc42 thats a bit unfortunate but we'll try to make something work for now.
Will feed hold work with external (USB) printing?

@zapta said in Best coefficients for extruder thermistor?:

As for the difference between the nozzle temperature and the thermistor, I presume that this is a also a good argument against switching to more accurate sensors such as PT100[0].

Yes, pretty much. I replied in your other thread and mentioned that I did a video and posted it on my YT channel. It's focus was primarily on the effect of deflected part cooling air but the difference between the temperature inside the nozzle and the temperature inside the heater block were orders of magnitude greater than the accuracy errors of any sensor. Hardened steel nozzles were especially bad. Which is why, imo the only thing one can do is print temperature towers to find the best setting for the hot end/nozzle/filament combination.

@zapta You are right I followed instructions from @deckingman and it worked.
I have shared a new config file in the previous reply.

@0nn0 I wouldnt possibly know, buy its a mod that existed for multiple years and Greg seems to enjoy a lively community around it.

@OwenD said in Installing magnets in heated bed:

I've sourced some 9.5mm x 3.2mm N42SH magnets rated up to 150C
As I print a fair bit of ABS and Nylon I typically run 80-100C bed temps.
I was hoping to use 8 of these magnets around the outer edge to hold the plate.

I think you'll need more magnets.

I used 32 number 9mm diameter 3mm thick samarium-cobalt magnets in a 300 diameter bed. Your magnets may be stronger than mine (mine were nominally 1kg pull when in contact with a large steel plate 3mm thick), but not that much stronger.

As others have noted, it does depend on the spring steel plate - I use circular with PEI one side only plate from aliexpress, and I'd like it to be about 50% grippier, but if I put a genuine Prusa spring steel plate on it's plenty grippy enough.

There's pictures and more description of what I did at https://forum.duet3d.com/post/300128

@o_lampe I gave that a try, unfortunately, no improvements

@dc42 Thatnks for the info. My intention is c¿not completely that: I meant I wanted to have 2 printers, but make a connection between them and share some info like reading some sensors from the other for example, or the status as another example. So each board created it ouwn axis, sensors, etc.