@deckingman:

Lykle,

I have a theory (but it's unproven) that cartridge heaters "age" when you start pushing them to higher temperatures. I have one that used to do some testing on heat sink compound and which I pushed up to 400 deg C hot end temperature (yes I know it was extreme but had to be done in this case). Ever since then, that cartridge behaves completely different to any others (I have 10 of the things laying around). It still works but needs completely different PID settings to any others (and takes takes longer to reach the desired temperature). Maybe you had something similar happen and that was what you were seeing from one day to the next? Just a thought.
Ian

A resistance measurement between a good cartridge and an "aged" cartridge would go a long way to prove your theory. Short of some super thermal insulator forming inside the cartridge if the resistance stays the same it should work more or less the same, air gaps aside. Funny I found E3D's 30w heater to be 30 watts. I found some no name heaters I got off amazon which look good to instead of 40w be around 47w. Talk about too much heat.

Jeff

Thanks Jeff!

Do you have the option enabled or disabled? It should be disabled, if my hunch is correct. Did you try printing the object with that disabled?

Also, do you have a bowden tube? It is not abnormal, at all, for enough pressure to build up to expel that much filament during a move, especially considering you say your print feedrate is so high.

Edit: Oh I just saw your last explanation. That seems to be it.

@dc42:

At the very least you need to change the B vale in the M305 command to suit the Epcos thermistor. Find its datasheet (it may be this one http://media.digikey.com/pdf/Data%20Sheets/Epcos%20PDFs/B57540.pdf)) and use the config tool at https://configurator.reprapfirmware.org/ to work out its B value, and optionally its C value too if you are using firmware 1.17.

Thanks, I will apply the new settings and try that.

Thanks for the tip toward troubleshooting these issues. I'll let you know how my progress goes (hopefully it will get better since hearing this tip)

Jonathan l

Did another two rounds of measuring the H offsets and found some different values. Probably needed some experience in paper gripping to get the right feel to do it consistently for every point.

first new round:
-0.14
-0.13
0.09
0.16
-0.1
-0.2
0.01
0.09
0.07

second new round:
-0.18
-0.16
0.08
0.17
-0.08
-0.18
0.02
0.09
0.1

New H offset values in the bed.g file:
; Probe the bed and do 6- or 7-factor auto calibration
G30 P0 X-73.6 Y-42.5 Z-99999 H-0.16 ; X tower
G30 P1 X0 Y-85 Z-99999 H-0.14 ; between X and Y towers
G30 P2 X73.6 Y-42.5 Z-99999 H0.08 ; Y tower
G30 P3 X73.6 Y20 Z-99999 H0.17 ; between Y and Z towers
G30 P4 X0 Y67 Z-99999 H-0.09 ; Z tower
G30 P5 X-73.6 Y20 Z-99999 H-0.19 ; between Z and X towers
G30 P6 X-36.8 Y-21.25 Z-99999 H0.01 ; half way to X tower
G30 P7 X36.8 Y-21.25 Z-99999 H0.09 ; half way to Y tower
G30 P8 X0 Y42.5 Z-99999 H0.08 ; half way to Z tower
G30 P9 X0 Y0 Z-99999 S6 ; centre, and auto-calibrate 6 factors

Finally managed to get good leveling now.
Thanks for all the help everybody!!

Great thanks dc42 that's done the trick.

The values in each row are always in order of increasing X, so not the same order as the points are probed. The rows are in order of increasing Y.

The reason I use carriage spacers is that I am using Igus joints, and without them the rod ends foul the carriages and the effector. The Traxxas joints don't need them because they already have a flange that spaces the joint from the other parts.

I suggest you measure the Z probe trigger height at the G32 probe points, and also check whether any variation is due to effector tilt. There are a few of ways of checking for effector tilt. One is to mount a bulls-eye spirit level on the effector. Another is to lower the nozzle until it touches the bed or grips a sheet of paper, then use feeler gauges to measure the height of the bottom edge of the IR sensor above the bed. If there is no tilt and the bed is flat, the height should be constant regardless of XY position.

In your slicer end gcode.

Yes I tried rotating the bed. No real change.
I will try covering the bed with a single sheet of white, see if that makes a difference.
Thanks for the idea.

Thanks for your inputs. I was way off on delta radius, all is working now. The M92 is correct with 128 microstepping, btw.

Mine is running fine now and I have a fully functioning machine. I did look at best practice wiring and nearly bought a roll of 4 wire twisted pair shielded cable. I must say the DuetWifi is a huge step up from the Rumba board in my other printer.

Please post your whole config.g file.

EDIT: I see from your other post that you have resolved this.

Addendum, Okay, something has changed for the better - but I'm at a loss why this worked.
I'd also had a heater fault, and entered M562 P1 to reset it.

Doing that seems to have reset the motors though it shouldn't have any effect at all. Now, at least I can make changes with the M92 and they seem to have the right effect.

Weird.

Great, thank you guys.

You could try using 8 factor calibration instead of 6 factor, then it will calibrate for bed tilt as well in firmware 1.16 and later. The snag is that it is hard to distinguish between bed tilt and misplaced towers. Using a lot of probe points helps, with some as far from the centre as possible.

Thanks a lot, works now!

M18 will wait until all queue moves are finished before it takes effect, so it's not much use here. I can't remember whether M906 and M913 also wait or not.