@peridot:

Unfortunately even with the computed H values I still don't get good pre-fit deviations out of the autoprobe (and the post-fit deviations are not always great either).

That's to be expected to some extent. If you need to use H values to correct for effector tilt, then you have a geometrical error that the model used by the printer (including the auto calibration code) does not account for.

If you can't track down the geometrical error that cause effector tilt. then in the very near future you will be able to use grid-based bed compensation to compensate for the residual height errors.

@dc42:

It looks to me that you have severe under extrusion on the first layer, and slight under extrusion on top solid infill layers. This suggests to me that you are starting the first layer too high.

I'm using S3D and my "First Layer Settings" are Height 90%/Width 100%/Speed 50%.

I should point out that I'm printing with a raft.

This was the default ABS setting, do you suggest any changes to that?

Thanks! I'll take a look once I'm not tinkering with anything else.

Pfff my fault…
Extruder, heater, motor, drive... all a bit confusing 😉

This is what im running

Firmware Name: RepRapFirmware for Duet WiFi
Firmware Electronics: Duet WiFi 1.0
Firmware Version: 1.16rc2 (2016-11-05)
WiFi Server Version: 1.02
Web Interface Version: 1.13-rc2

dont recall what the paneldue is running

Yes you can use a 12V regulator and feed 12V into the centre pin of the fan voltage select jumper if you want to run all your fans at 12V. However, if you have just a few axial fans then it is easier and cheap to replace them by 24V fans, which are readily available on Amazon, eBay etc. 24V blower fans are a little harder to get but there are some available, e.g. this 51mm one http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/blowers/7878960/.

yes it was in Simplify3d, set to 300mm/sec with everything set to keep speeds at 100% for this test

Ok - debating if I want to mess with it. The paper drag method is variable enough with 0.05 increments that I wouldn't be gaining a lot over the 0.08 deviation I'm getting now if I were to do that per tower.

I suspect I probably do have some tilt in the system, I know I had more and have taken steps to reduce it, but probably still have some.

I had been struggling with bed flatness on 310mm round Rostock MV2 bed. I have ended up removing the PCB Onyx heater, the melamine support, and mounting a flat 1/4 inch Al plate directly (with spacers and heat shield under the heater) to the base at 3 points. My previous (stock) setup was warped, and it was making the boro glass to warp too. However, it seems that the boro glass has become flat again after sitting free for a couple of days. Currently, I am using PEI over the boro glass on the top of 1/4inch Mic6 Al. Although my bed may not be absolutely flat, it is a great improvement over what was going on before. After 13-point calibration with the mini IR, the bed leveling reports error of around 0.005mm vs over 0.1mm before. Applying the adhesive to the glass was certainly tricky, and I had to start over several times. Applying 0.8mm PEI was easy.

In my experience a 3 to 6 mm thick glass will conform, at least to a degree, to a surface under it, so if the bed has a dome in the middle, the glass will warp in the center

@jstevewhite:

Am I understanding "dead time" properly as the interval between the application of a PID power change and the visible result?

That's more or less what it means. In practice the temperature starts rising a little before the dead time, but reaches a steady rate of increase a little later than the dead time.

I would also set the correct steps in the config file then you know it's right. If you get it as close as you can then in your slicer you have the option to to set the extrusion multiplier per profile for PLA, PET etc..

Quick update. I've commented out the codes that I had in tpfree/post etc and put them into the Custom Gcode - Tool Change section of Slic3r. Did a quick slice and taking a gander at the resultant gcode file, it looks like it'll work. It's much more elegant doing it this way as the commands will only be executed during a print and not at other times when I'm playing around with things. So I don't need the dummy tool in my config.g. Also, the codes are only executed on tool change and not tool selection so it doesn't do this extra purge thing at the start of a print, therefore I won't need the Z hop. Now to figure out the tower thing….....

If it heats quickly to 200C and then takes a long time to reach 220C then it sounds as though the auto tuning has over estimated the gain parameter. Let your hot end stabilise at 220C and then send M573 P1 to find the average PWM. Divide that figure into (220C - room temperature) and see how that figure compares with the 471 found by auto tuning.

Thanks Dave, works fine if I do after powerup.

Looks like setting a Z Lift in the M207 over rides the S3D Setting so have tweaked mine up to 0.75.

If the current temperature box has a red background when using the light theme, then the tool is selected. If not, press the nozzle icon at the top of the column.

yes and the S param says whether the FW expects the endstop switch to be either open or closed depending on the setting of it?

make the second M574 line to be

M574 X1 Y2 S1

@DjDemonD:

What I find interesting with this is that I just click the temp and dial it down to zero, as I didn't realise there was an "on/off switch". It's nice to know there is one, but doing it that way wasn't that annoying, if I wanted it off quickly I'd set 0 in web control, or hit emergency stop.

I only added it in PanelDue yesterday. DWC has had it for much longer.

That's right but if you want to move to a specific position before heating like an ooze bucket as I used to have then you can move in the script but S3D does the heating always before your script is executed.
Using those variables disables the automatic heating and you can place it yourself where you want in the startup procedure and do a move first or leveling before heating to the final print temperature…