Also I'd second requests to be able to backup the SD card or just the system folder as a zip or similar.
Having the ability to backup the sys folder would be very very welcome. It's a pain taking apart the printer to get the SD card and back it up. The download doesn't work right so trying to download each file is a pain. I always just get a browser window with the g-code in it.
Jeff
What might work for a delta might not work so much for a cartesian. Before I upgraded the stepper on my Z axis I think I was getting about 1/4 step holding accuracy. So for me compensation wasn't working all that great. So much better now with higher torque motor.
You'll not get 32x let alone 64x micro-stepping holding torque accuracy except for random rare cases of pure luck. You might get 16x if your lucky. Micro stepping works sure, but it doesn't replace good old mechanical resolution. I would say 1/8th stepping calculations might be a bit more realistic.
I'm running 1/128th on my Cartesian now without delays in the stepper queue showing up at up to 150 mm/s. 1/64th is a good choice overall. 1/32nd gets kind of noisy. In the end run whatever you want, personally I want better then 1/16th resolution even if that only translates into 1/18th due to limitations in the mechanics/motors, etc. I don't at all believe those who say you can't get better than say 1/8th. I don't believe it at all. I can just , just barely tell the different going from 1/16th to 1/32nd. It's subtle but it exists in my case on my printer with my room temperatures and humidity etc..etc. I think you get the idea.
The resistance goes up when heated, so cold ohm readings are not always accurate. You have to measure current and multiply with the voltage while running to get the true watts. That being said however I've found the original E3D heaters to be pretty spot on while the clones can be way off. I have some 40 watt heaters (clones) that are 47 watts running or more.
No, 24V is fine for the steppers and will help maintain torque at high speeds. But your bed heater obviously needs 24V because of its high resistance. Also, unless you have 24V hot end heaters and fans, then you had better not feed more than 15V to VIN on the Duet. Even 15V is rather high for a 12V fan.
Personally I would buck that 15v down to 12v for the fans or better still just convert everything to 24v. Fan's are cheap as are heating elements.
That's a very high resistance for a bed heater. I suggest you run the bed from 24V and the Duet from 15V.
Interesting, so your suggesting running the steppers off 15v would be better then the 24v ? Just curious.
I'm still continuing my love hate relationship with S3D. I've tried the latest Cura beta and like it, need to try some others.
Let's not forget auto power off of ATX supply after cool down of hot end option. Priorities really are going to vary widely from user to user. #7 for example wouldn't gain me a thing, someone using a delta on the other hand might love it.
19, 3 ,6, 15, 20, 11, 12, 1
Installed the new 1.2A motor for the Z-Axis up from the 450ma motor. Bed comp now works much more predictably. Running out of stuff that's original on the printer outside of the shell.
Haa, I was waiting for someone else to kill their processor, In my case I put 24v down the H3 pin. The chip still worked..somewhat but not right. I ended up ordering a new processor and removing the old one and drag soldering in a new one. Not something to do without experience and patience. My board has been rock solid with the replacement CPU.
Jeff