Another way is to set the Mac address in the router to have a specific address. I had to do this due to not being able to access the internet through my pi for updates. And it's easy as to do.

now it works! thanks again

The output should alway be close to 0, 465 or 535; except in the case of direct bright sunlight, when it may reach 1000.

The reading should be 0 when the sensor is a long way from the bed. When it is several mm from the bed, it should rise to 465 but the LED should remain off. The 465 reading warns the firmware that it is close to the bed, so that it can reduce the probing speed. At trigger height the reading should rise to about 535, the LED should come on, and probing should stop. If you then raise the nozzle a fraction of a mm then the reading should drop back to 465 and the LED should go off.

The LED should only be on when the analog reading is about 535. It should be off if the reading is 465.

I had to add a negative value to my minimum z height since the firmware would block any negative z offset.

M208 X0 Y0 Z-2 S1 ; Set axis minima

G31 P25 X35.25 Y0 Z1.25 ; Set Z probe trigger value, offset and trigger height. The higher the "Z" value, the closer the bed will get to the nozzle.

I'm guessing that those figures reported by DWC are the M208 defaults, in which case they are not relevant to delta printers except for Z min. I've made a note to look into this.

Hi,

Thanks for the reply, I have tried both already, I used the prusa calculator to get the best layer height, and that made no difference, or it did change the pattern position. the heated bed pattern would look different and it would fade further away the Z.

I go agree it has something to do with the layer height, but I am not really sure how to calculate the right layer height, unless I use one of this online calculator.also my leadscrew has a pitch of 2 that should make it really easy to divide.

Well replacing the instructuon fir Marlin

[[language]] M900 K0.x ; set K-factor ```by

[[language]]
M572 D0 S0.x

Hi…

solved....

the screw that holds the thermistor to the hot block, it was very tight .... when loosening it, it has started to work well ...

Thanks for the help, it has put me on the way

Are you sure that your Z steps/mm value (4000) in the M92 command is correct?

Wow thanks guys i am testing some settings. But i must say great support from you guys. I love the duetWifi its nice and much nicer to change settings then Marling with the ramps board.

Thanks for the help

You can sync the motors automatically if the E1 motor output is free. See https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Bed_levelling_using_multiple_independent_Z_motors.

That's the exact confusion though. Why would someone expect firmware to be in Documentation? Why would someone expect DUET firmware to be in 'reprap' firmware? Yes the machines that are using the Duet boards are basically repraps, and it is based on reprap firmware, but people going to the site are expecting DUET firmware. Then, further, 'firmware overview' is just as out of place because you go there to expect an overview of what the firmware is CAPABLE of…

All of which, yes that's where I went to get the firmware inevitably, but it was a chore to actually hunt down and locate after a complete site overhaul it seems.

The better, and by far easiest thing to have done... was at the top including a 'downloads' section, like just about every other website out there in existence that requires a download to take place in order to use their products (or at the very least, a 'support' link, which then contains a 'downloads' link)... Then a warning label of 'Attention! It is highly advised that you read through these notes!' and have the 'these notes' section clickable, or at least a link underneath the statement... Then followed by "Download this version here, and this version here" sort of things, and presto... you can find it all in one click…

I'm not trying to bash and such, just stating that man the organization structure is cumbersome to navigate, and multiple documents have conflicting information or straight up misinformation...

Also, as a plus note:
This version is WAY more stable (for me anyway) than 1.18 ever was... I don't have to power cycle the board 30 times to get it to connect to my Access Point, the sensors display proper information, fan sliders work without any weird tweaking, and the overall speed between navigating pages/tabs is alot quicker. Really do love the way it works now, even if it does typically take a long bit of work to get going.

Of which is another awesome note! Completely rebuilt the printer, and it printed perfectly the very first time with zero tweaks required! THAT I can say a RAMPS board would never be capable of doing lol. Good work! Seriously!

If you have your limits set then after you home the machine it should not go past the set limits.

Thanks for the clarification. I just re-read the Wiki and for V1.18 it mentions the default value of P=1.0 (my bad)

My cartridge is from Aliexpres and specifies 24V/50W. However I have measured a resistance of 8.1 ohms, which would mean 20W if powered with 12V and 71W if powered with 24V. That got me thinking of the quality…...

The presence/absence of a fan can't be detected by the fan driver circuit.

The thermistor to monitor the heatsink temperature is probably the best option. Another option would be to use a 4-wire PWM-controllable fan (which needs to be driven a different way from the usual fans) and monitor the tacho output.

I suggest that for the moment you leave out the G29. Run G32 and see what it says the deviation is before and after (after should always be zero if you have only 2 probe points). Then run it 2 or 3 more times and see what deviation it reports after each one. Depending on your mechanics, it may take a few runs to converge.

There is an extra M671 parameter in firmware 1.21RC3 to help with convergence.

I followed your instructions and it is working perfectly fine. I used a three pin molex, one of the side pins is connected from the 24V pin to the buck converter VIN, the middle pin pin goes from the Vfan to the VCC output of the buck. Unfortunately this jumper is not protected against reverse polarity, so I will have to label it very carefully. Worst case (reversed polarity), I would power the buck converter with 5V and nothing serious will happen.
You saved my Noctua and my radial fan!. I love my Duet more and more, it has plenty of possibilities for any configuration. Very versatile.
Thanks again for you great help.

@DADIY:

@dc42:

You need 1.21RC3.

Hopefully that release will go stable soon?

Feel the power of the Dark Side…..

@djdemond that's how I'm doing it now. I just wanted to confirm that I am not running into some other issue

@dc42 thanks for clearing that up. I hope others with the same question as mine will find this explanation as well.