Well here's the results lol.

The blue pieces in a 'square' are made with eSUN PETG as a fast test. First print with both X and Y gantries replaced with linear guides/rails (whatever people wanna call em). So now aka Janky v4

The clear/white is Solutech PETG with the carbon fiber tubes on both X and Y gantries..... noticeable improvement... holy crap... This is basically Janky v3

The gray pieces connected together are made with Hatchbox "Silver" PETG and have been significantly 'post processed' with razors and such. Done on what was Janky v2

And finally the blue pieces connected together were made on the very first version of Janky, which was holy crap terrible... but hey, it worked! Used the completely wrong settings for EVERYTHING... 0.4mm nozzle with 0.4mm layer height, 135% layer width, yadda yadda, complete garbage.

They were printed with Hatchbox ABS, and had the least 'post processing' of anything ironically. They just snapped together, and with alittle silicone lube, work perfectly fine. They have a slight 'uphill' travel to them but hey, they work!

Anyway, this was basically just to showcase that linear guides/rails are hands down just worth the money... 23 bucks for two carbon fiber tubes, or 23 bucks for a linear guide/rail... I'll now take that rail any day... so much easier to model parts for, so much easier to work with, so much easier in actual use....

Also, as a side note:
The test print wasn't entirely successful, hence the terrible look. The extruder kept jamming every couple of minutes, so the gaps/uneven looking shells are attributed to that... Idk why it jams so much now. All I did from v2 to v3/4 was move it from one z post to the other so that the filament was easier to reach lol.

!

OK SO!!!

For anyone else trying.... almost every guide is completely wrong when it comes to access for the camera... You have to turn OFF the remote access settings... if you turn them ON then the Motion Service actually restricts... turning them OFF allows them to be seen remotely, and for whatever reason, even though it is being ran ON THE SAME PI AS DUET... it sees it as a remote computer and thus blocks access...

For a quick update, this doesn't seem to work. It loads a link into the 'webcam' section

I've tried following multiple guides on how to get the system running, but it will not allow a computer to connect to it to view the images, nor does it allow 'itself' to see the images. If you click the link, it just simply reloads the Duet Interface.

I'm going to try and see if changing the default ports on it solves this. As maybe that port is already in use by the Duet Interface.

@Phaedrux Is this capable of being ran on the same Pi that's controlling the 6HC? if so, then I think this is exactly what I was looking for then.

So I know the original Duets (Not the 6HC) did not natively support physically attaching a webcam. In order to utilize a webcam, you had to use a Raspberry Pi or some other hardware, and use an embedded jpeg stream...

After playing around with my new 6HC with a Raspberry Pi attached, I couldn't find any 'webcam' settings. Has this functionality been removed?

Now with the prelude of that out of the way, my bigger question is:
Is there any way to directly integrate the camera into the Web Interface? I mean... The Pi IS the Web Interface now... And the Pi already has FULL WebCam functionality via the Camera Ribbon Cable Connection, or via USB.

Am I just blind and missing something in the settings? Is my Google-Fu not strong enough to actually find the info I'm looking for?

Any info on this would be highly appreciated If this is not currently a part of the SBC interface solution, may I ask why it has not been implemented yet? Its fully possible to do, so if it isn't, why hasn't it been?

Also, I'm not sure if this post should be here, or in the Web Interface Catagory. I figured here at first because I'm looking for info on connecting a piece of hardware (A Camera) to the Duet System to have an All-In-One solution, without having to set up yet another pi to use the Motion Eye system as a 'WebCam' solution..

@Phaedrux That it will Thankfully there are forums and wiki's to help people

Just kinda bumping basically to keep this abit alive...

But also to point out, that this should probably be somewhere in the documentation for how to set up the board. There is only a mention of "you should put ! infront of the pin name to invert", but for people who have never used this board before, that means nothing to them..

I had spent nearly 3-4 hours trying to get my Z-Probe to work again since all the typical things I know of that worked on my Duet Wifi, does not work on this board at all. Having seen "you need to put ! infront of the pin name" meant nothing to me. I had no clue what I was supposed to be putting the ! infront of. It wasn't until a completely unrelated search that magically brought this thread up, that I saw an actual example of what people keep talking about. So thank you Phaedrux! I would still be destroying my hair for the next few hours if you hadn't posted an actual example of the code, instead of just simply saying "Put an ! at the front" like everyone else

Yes I've read the other threads.

I can't get the Duet Wifi to work via the internet. I don't see any sort of port that the Duet Wifi itself is using, thus can't forward anything to it... If I just give it an unused port in the router, then it just says there's no connection.

YES I know its not the most secure. I DO NOT CARE. Printer is located in an area where if it were to catch fire, oh well. A foot of solid concrete in every direction does not, and will not, burn.

I NEED access, because lately the printer has been skipping steps randomly, and I have several things I need to get printed in the coming weeks as I wait for possible new motors to come in. Nothing about the printer has changed but the motors appear to have slop. so while i'm waiting for shipping, I'd MUCH rather be able to just remote into the printer when at work, check the camera feed to see if its still printing properly, and if not, tell it to turn off.

I do not care if it is a vulnerability for MY network. It is my network, not yours, so please let me worry about that. The port is only going to be active when I'm AWAY from home, not 24/7. Have a lovely script for that.

So if anyone can be kind enough to give a legitimate answer to how this is accomplished without going "use a vpn" or "don't do it its not secure", I'd greatly appreciate it...

Well here's the results lol.

The blue pieces in a 'square' are made with eSUN PETG as a fast test. First print with both X and Y gantries replaced with linear guides/rails (whatever people wanna call em). So now aka Janky v4

The clear/white is Solutech PETG with the carbon fiber tubes on both X and Y gantries..... noticeable improvement... holy crap... This is basically Janky v3

The gray pieces connected together are made with Hatchbox "Silver" PETG and have been significantly 'post processed' with razors and such. Done on what was Janky v2

And finally the blue pieces connected together were made on the very first version of Janky, which was holy crap terrible... but hey, it worked! Used the completely wrong settings for EVERYTHING... 0.4mm nozzle with 0.4mm layer height, 135% layer width, yadda yadda, complete garbage.

They were printed with Hatchbox ABS, and had the least 'post processing' of anything ironically. They just snapped together, and with alittle silicone lube, work perfectly fine. They have a slight 'uphill' travel to them but hey, they work!

Anyway, this was basically just to showcase that linear guides/rails are hands down just worth the money... 23 bucks for two carbon fiber tubes, or 23 bucks for a linear guide/rail... I'll now take that rail any day... so much easier to model parts for, so much easier to work with, so much easier in actual use....

Also, as a side note:
The test print wasn't entirely successful, hence the terrible look. The extruder kept jamming every couple of minutes, so the gaps/uneven looking shells are attributed to that... Idk why it jams so much now. All I did from v2 to v3/4 was move it from one z post to the other so that the filament was easier to reach lol.

!

@phaedrux That's my next build. I'm trying to get this one to print 'properly' and square, so that I can print out parts for a CoreXY using aluminum extrusion... Using hand cut pieces of wood for 4 years only gets ya so far... Really want to get some 'precision' going on.. so for now I gotta hope this thing works, print out as good as parts as I can, and 'pray' they all fit with the extrusion... only have this as a printer, so once i start taking it apart, there's no easy way to go back and reprint things that aren't right x-x

Yup... moving properly now.

This is why this forum is awesome. People always know what to do, even when its something super complicated, just as well when its something stupidly obvious but just slips the mind.