Hi,

I have find this video, seems promising
NON PLANAR LAYERS](https://youtu.be/km1lvuva5mI)

@phaedrux do it, works.... FW3 save me the ass

@engikeneer said in Help with Slic3r PE 2.2:

ou tried enabling 'support on

ey....

this is, thanks @engikeneer

Hi,

think i have find it...

After several tests, I saw that the problem was always similar, it did not matter the material, the layer height, the speed of printing ... after 1 or 2 layers, jamming occurred, and loss of steps of the heater, which another part is a double gear striker, and the voltage was raised to 800 mA in config.g.

Seeing the stuck filament, it looked like the tip formed a ball, and the distance coincided, approximately where the nozzle began.

At this point I have to say that I use a Prometheus v2 hotend ... seeing the documentation of this, I saw an error when I mount it ... and I did not put Thermal Silicone on the nozzle, so I put thermal silicone and gave it more distance the Heat Block to the Heat Skin. Before I had 2 mm, and I have put two nuts, in addition to 2 mm. In total about 6 mm, which forced me to modify the config.g, and adjust the loss of height effect

With this I tried to separate the source of heat, Heat Block, Heat Skin, and try to get the heat, did not reach the Heat Skin, and did not melt the material, this along with the silicone ends, it seems that it is working.

I have two impressions, with ABS, and for now, everything is correct, I still need to try PETG, which uses a higher temperature ...

I share my evidence here, in case you can serve someone ...

The truth is that it would have had more influence, if the silicone, or separate the Heat Block from the Heat Skin ...

@tripz2757 said in Tevo little monster:

ant get it to

i have a TLM modded with Duet... in what can i help you?

Simplify 3d

Hi,

Find it...!!!

Thanks to all.

Mechanical issue, the screw on one arm was not tight

@pickett said in Best Z Probe for Duet 3 Mini 5+:

@peirof that is what I keep hearing about that particular setup so have you heard any good things about the generic precision piezo off of Amazon.com?

iI haven't heard anything, I bought it from Precision Piezo web ...

Hi,

Info obtained from E3d wiki, copy and paste..

 Before you install your heater cartridge, you should double check that you both purchased and received the correct voltage cartridge. Cartridges are laser etched with their voltage, but all it is worth double-checking anyway. This process is less annoying than putting out a house fire.
 
 If you have a 12v30w heater cartridge, your multimeter should read 4.8Ω
 
 If you have a 24v30w heater cartridge, your multimeter should read 19.2Ω
 
 Your cartridges resistance may deviate slightly from these numbers, which is fine. We're mostly interested in verifying which cartridge type you have.
 
 If you have a 12v 40w heater cartridge your multimeter should read 3.6Ω
 
 If you have a 24v 40w heater cartridge your multimeter should read 14.4Ω

Hi,

As I have commented in other recent posts, after my problems with my TLM. I'm going to start from almost 0 (I'll take advantage of some components) and I'm going to build a Corexy (RatDig v3)

In a Facebook group, from this printer, I have been passed an interesting document about the recommended tension for the belts. I take it for granted, and I post it here, in case it serves anyone

BELT TENSION

Hi

After a while testing another controller board... There is one aspect that I think could be very interesting that Duet v4 included.... And it is that the drivers of the engines were not fixed, they could be changed.... This, I think, has advantages... One of them, if a driver burns, as happened to me in 2 of the duet board, you do not have to throw the plate in the trash, or send it to repair, with buying a spare Driver you solve it ... And if in the future they release a new driver with better feature, You can change them in an easy way... In addition to lowering the cost of the board

@oliof

fine...

but the driver that has failed (came out on fire), had not given me problems... I think it is more related to the fact that it is in the driver that I have measured the temperature... with a thermometer..., it must be be more related to this...

I still don't know what I did to make it burn..., I've only measured the temperature in the driver, since since I downgraded firmware 3.4 to 3.3, 10 minutes after starting to print it gave me an error due to excess temperature... Not only in the burned driver, but in the drivers of the Z axis motors, all 3....

I've been committed to DUET boards for quite some time... But, for one reason or another, I haven't been able to come to fruition with any of the ones I've had, and with this one there have been 3...

I'm sure, although in some cases I have my doubts, like in this one... that the mistakes were mine, but you must understand that I'm tired of having problems. I think I'm going to jump ship on DUET, and explore other options, which are working well from what I see. For example, the printer I was about to finish has an Octopus plate by default, and the prints are good...

On the one hand I feel sorry, since I have been committed to Duet for quite some time... but on the other hand I feel excited to explore other options, maybe this is not a definitive goodbye, it is a see you later... but for now I'm going to leave you....

In large part I feel sorry, for the great work that the Duet staff does every day in this forum, most of the doubts, and there have been many. I just looked at it and I have been a user of the forum since 2007, and about 1200 posts. AND I HAVE NO COMPLAINTS FROM THE COMMUNITY, on the contrary, congratulations for the impeccable way of running the forum and solving doubts and providing solutions...

Just say goodbye, and congratulate you... just that maybe I haven't had a bit of luck...

BYE

@phaedrux Houston we have a BIG problem.... i have power on printer, and in idle mode, i was checking the temperature over a driver with a termometer.... and it has burned, sparks have begun to fly. As fast as I could, I stopped the printer... after a while I tried to turn it on and sparks have jumped, I've tried it several times and they didn't stop jumping....

attached video of what happens every time I try to turn it on...

Now what can be done?

@phaedrux

Googling a bit, I read the FW3.3 notes, and there is something similar to what the Duet board does to me, ".... you may get spurious overheat warning messages......".

Github notes FW3.3

What Firmware is "safe" to install, when I had 3.4 beta, I didn't receive these overheat warnings...

@phaedrux

Today it is still to measure the temperature in the drivers that are overheated, those corresponding to the Z axis... To do this, I intend to use a thermometer with a probe... But I have a couple of questions:

• If you placed the probe over the drivers while Duet is on.... Is there a risk of short?

• To fix the thermometer sensor, he had thought of using Kapton mole tape. Are there any risks to the Duet Board?

Hi,

Well, i am doing my first runs.... but, but after about 5/10 minutes, I get this error message...

8/3/2022 18:52:18	Warning: high temperature reported by driver(s) 1 2 3
8/3/2022 18:52:13	Warning: high temperature reported by driver(s) 2

I thought that Duet 3 mini, did not need a fan on the drivers... is there any way to know the temperature of the drivers? It sounds to me like I've read that the Duet 3 mini couldn't.

Config.g extract

M584 X0.5 Y0.6 Z0.1:0.2:0.3 E0.4        ; set drive mapping
M350 X16 Y16 Z16 I1                 ; configure microstepping with interpolation

M92 X160.00 Y160.00 Z1600.00               ; set steps per mm
M906 X900 Y900 Z900 I30               ; set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent
M84 S30                                 ; Set idle timeout

M566 X400.00 Y400.00 Z6.00 P1          ; set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min)
M203 X10800.00 Y10800.00 Z1000.00     ; set maximum speeds (mm/min)
M201 X3000.00 Y3000.00 Z100.00        ; set accelerations (mm/s^2)

;EXTRUDER ORBITER 2.0

M350 E16 I1                      ;micro stepping set to 16 with interpolation
M92 E710 						;steps/mm - you may need to finetune it
M203 E7200                      ;max speed mm/min
M566 E300                        ;instantaneous speed change mm/min
M201 E3000                      ;acceleration mm/s2
M906 E1000 I10                ;motor current 1.2A idle current 10%
M572 D0 S0.02                 ;pressure advance – to be calibrated

It is also curious, because the drivers that it gives notice of are those corresponding to the Z axis, which are the motors that move the least.

Perhaps the temperature at which the alarm goes off is very low... can it be seen/changed? What would be a reasonable temperature?

I hope to be able to patch it soon, since I plan to put a 12 cm fan on the board... but that's covering up the problem....

Another possibility to improve how they behave is to put some aluminum heatsinks on them, the ones used by PCS graphics cards.... but I don't know if the adhesive will be compatible with the drivers or the mess...

Is it normal for me to skip that warning?

@dc42 wow.... on this occasion, it would have been of great help... that "short to ground" track has made me suspect the wiring, as it seems that it was....

@peirof more news... I have downgraded... from version 3.4 beta, to 3.3. final. And when I pressed home, it tells me that Driver 2 has detected a "short to ground", with the previous firmware it didn't give me any errors

@fcwilt I use those lines, at the beginning of the Homeall, to separate the bed from the Hotend and that the BlTouch can be deployed without problems, since it happened to me in some test, that the bed was very close to the nozzle, and when I hit Home, no the BlTOuch was displayed correctly

One more thing....

At the start of my homing.g, there are there 2 lines

G91 ; relative mode
G1 H1 Z30 F1000
...

These Z30 moves, the not spining motor, DO it....