Ok great, X500 will work. Thanks!

Gentlemen,
thanks for all the help I actually found the problem today after using a thermocouple purely on the hot end and heater. The problem was the new all-metal hot end (well new to me). The Bowden tube actually feeds about 30mm into the hot end and touches the nozzle in the cold area, the nozzle is about 44mm for configuration purposes. I had a gap of approx. 3mm that caused the filament to snare, ran the heater at 220 with PLA and it worked perfectly (I still need to set up room temp settings I'm about 2C off).
I still cant understand why the thermometer actually gives decent readings on the Rostock and not the Prometheus but for future reference it now in the trash, DC42 thanks for pointing that out my shortcomings. Also DC42 my parameters for 305 are just standard until I tune it in properly ( M305 P0 T100000 B4388 R4700 H30 L0 ) I'm still in build faze.
Mark

What problems are you having with Chinese stepper motors?

We added the flyback diodes in PCB revision 1.02 because a few users had connected BerdAir or similar water pumps to fan outputs without using a flyback diode, which damaged the mosfet. Ordinary brushless fans do not require flyback diodes, but brushed DC motors do.

No, however if the cables from the PSU to the Duet are long or too thin then you could be getting excessive voltage drop on them. Similarly for the cable from the Duet to the bed heater. To check this, use a multimeter to measure the voltage at the PSU output terminals, the Duet VIN terminals, and at the bed heater.

If you are getting excessive voltage drop between the PSU and the Duet, you can use 2 sets of wires between the PSU and the Duet. At the Duet end of the cables, use 2-into-1 ferrules. At the PSU end, use 2 sets of output terminals.

You can find the schematics for all the Duets and their expansion boards at https://github.com/T3P3/Duet.

The first thing to check is that the screws in the VIN terminal block are tight.

You are looking at old documentation that pre-dates the Duet WiFi. See https://duet3d.com/wiki/Duet_Wiki for the current documentation. As you have already pressed the Erase button, you will need to use either SAM-BA 1.16 or bossac 1.18 to upload the firmware. You were probably using an o!d version of bossac.

The baud rate setting doesn't matter.

There is a section on how to find a compatible TFT panel in the instructions at https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com/paneldue/.

@deckingman that's it! Removing those files fixed my issue. I skimmed over the release notes, when I should've read them more closely…

The common causes of that issue are:

1. Bad connection on the data in or the data out wire. Or the pins swapped in the cable.

2 Mismatched baud rate. The baud rate set in the M575 command in config.g must match he baud rate set on the Setup page of PanelDue. The usual value is 57600.

HTH David

The mapping in your post is correct. We labeled the endstop inputs X Y Z E0 E1 originally because those are what the corresponding motor outputs were originally intended to be used for. But since then we have added support for additional axes, motor remapping, and many other features. So it's better to think of them as stepper outputs 0 thru 5, and similarly for the endstop inputs. That's how I expect we will label them in the next generation of the Duet.

Thanks.

Niiiice. Very nice explanations. Has duet wifi been tested with these types of probes? And do you think they will do a good job in case of using them for ABL? Thanks.

Yes, Z Probe In is AD12, at one end of the Z probe connector.

I still don't understand why P5 didn't work for you, unless you are using a very old version of RepRapFirmware (1.18.2 is latest stable, and 1.19RC4 is latest edge).

The bed PWM is low frequency (10Hz) so as to be compatible with SSRs. An AC mains bed heater SSR is unlikely to fail because it is massively over-rated for the task. However, for any bed heater that is capable of reaching dangerously high temperatures if left on at full power, a thermal cutout is a wise precaution.

Thanks, I'll give it a shot. I should have two IDEX printers to test the firmware on within 1-2 months. (This is the reason I want to use switches with such precision – aligning idex heads).

I have both a 7" and a 5" (Both from Filastruder).

Honestly, the 5" is just fine.

After two months of troubleshooting the same issue I tried your fix and increased the wire gauge to the hot end and it WORKED! THANK YOU!!! 😄

Thanks for all the answers.. Have begun wiring up ..
Best Regards