Ok, great.

The PanelDue cable on my delta is more than 1.5m long. It's 4 core unshielded cable.

@krzaku:

…
How did you choose a 220nF capacity? Is there a formula of some sorts? I just found today that Sunon fans are picky about PWM, I bought 3 fans, and 1 of them is not working with PWM power.

For sure there are formulas, look for e.g. RC circuit or for Low-pass filter in Wikipedia.
I just did some simulations in the free LTSpice program to get a rough idea about where I would be with the currents and voltages and it seemed to work fine for the 220nF capacitor I found in my junk box 🙂

Since I did not add a series resistor I wanted to keep the capacitor relatively small in order not to increase the peak currents too much (the wires have some resistance as well as the switching FET. The downside of this is a very high ripple in the resulting DC but seems to work fine for at least the Sunon I'm using. With larger capacitors you get a less ripply signal, but then you should also add a series resistor (a few ohms should be ok) to protect the switching FET.

The forthcoming 1.19RC1 firmware supports an additional SX1509B-based I/O expander. However, you are limited to using it for M42, M280 and related commands. You can also tap into the heater and thermistor pins on the expansion connector. However, the endstop pins won't work because they were reassigned as additional SPI CS pins.

thank you for you replay I already read it but I would like to know if someone made the "upgrade" recently with some more setup info.
thx
Andrea

You can take it off the board, but if/when you upgrade to 1.19 series firmware you will get lots of error reports to the console.

E0 has a lower value pullup resistor.

@dc42 I thought it was something along those lines as well, thank you for that, I'll let them know!

Thanks for making a great product, it really makes my 3d printing experience much better!

I reflowed the pads on the side of the drive with the SPI pins and everything seems to be working. Thanks.

I know 😉

@whosrdaddy:

@eviltoy:

Right so the ones I had were an utter fail and didnt work. So I am getting the right ones. Just to confirm I need to get either one of the following :

http://za.rs-online.com/web/p/rectifier-schottky-diodes/2513025/
http://za.rs-online.com/web/p/rectifier-schottky-diodes/1038145/

Yes that's correct.

Thanks so much will be getting them then

If you've desoldered it already then a warranty replacement is no longer an option. However, if you didn't damage the PCB traces in the process, then you should find it easy enough to solder a new driver in.

The stall detection only works over a limited speed range and it is updated at most once per full microstep. So it wouldn't be accurate enough to home a Cartesian printer.

EDIT: you can use stall detection to home a Cartesian printer if you don't need the home position to be highly accurate. This is now covered in the wiki.

It might be possible to use stall detection to home a delta printer if you follow homing with delta calibration using a Z probe. In fact you can do this without stall detection, you just need to reduce the motor current during homing (M913 command) so that the motors don't exert too much force when the hard stops are reached.

Yes, Duet uses the layout common with RC stuff which is setup to not kill things if you plug it in backwards (just won't work). The legacy 8-bit boards pin-out can result in VCC being sent to a signal pin or ground if plugged in incorrectly (bad). I prefer David's way (long time RC guy), he also uses locking connectors which is another smart move.

Assuming you have one Z motor at either end of your X axis, that gives you the X coordinates. For the Y coordinates, use the mid point of the bed.

It was a thermocouple board.

The last two things I did before it died was (1) connect the thermocouple board, and (2) install a fan with a large capacitor (diode included).

I've bought a new wifi with thermocouple board and I'm removing the large capacitor from the design - hoping to eliminate whatever it was that caused the problem in the first place.

Thanks for your help.

The black connectors that came with the PaneDue are for connecting it to different electronics, for example the older Duet 0.6 board. You don't need them for the Duet WiFi or Duet Ethernet.

The double entry bootlace ferrules are for use if you have a Duet X2 or Duet X5 as well so that you can daisy chain the power wires to that board. If you don't have one, use the single entry ferrules if your power wires will fit them. I was expecting to see 4 of them so that you have two for the bed heater as well. The small white ferrules are for the extruder heater connections.

Thanks that did the trick.

For the tests, the board will be in an open space, and I will reduce the current to 1.2-1.5A.

In its final position, it will be enclosed, but I already planned to add a good radial fan to blow laterally on the TMCs (DuetWifi and Duex5 will be side by side, so all drivers on the same line).

I guess bed/hotends/fans FET also need to be cooled?

My 2 cents/bullet points:

While I'm very pro-24V for stepper motors, there is a much wider range of fan (and LED, etc.) choices at 12V. So I have a fanless 24V supply for my steppers and hotend heaters, and use an inexpensive switching regulator (I used one of these: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/LM2596-LM2596S-ADJ-Power-supply-module-DC-DC-Step-down-module-5V-12V-24V-adjustable-Voltage/32271465162.html) to supply 12V for fans and any other 12V accessories (Duet Wifi conveniently and simply supports a different voltage for fans).

While I'm also a proponent of using mains power for bed heating for the same reasons DjDemonD listed, if you insist on 24V then a separate supply for the bed isn't a bad idea (apparently I'm just copying DjDemonD's notes for this bullet). While the average power usage will be much lower than bed+hotend1+hotend2+peak stepper current, etc., you still have to size your PSU for the peak, because these switching power supplies don't have much energy storage to handle transients above their rating.

That toaster analogy is a good one, DjDemonD - the inefficiency of converting hundreds of watts of mains power to 24V to warm up a resistor makes the efficiency expert in me cringe! 🙂