Hey @Gost101, I can't think of anything that would clog a volcano, but here are the things that I'd check (in case you haven't already)

• kinked tube, obstruction in filament path

• vastly oversized filament

• burr or debris in the nozzle

• insufficient stepper current or other mechanical cold end issue

I was seeing an irregular print surface on one side, I pulled the nozzle off, used a propane torch to clean it out, and a 5/64" drill bit by hand to check the barrel for burrs and other obstructions.

Hey @Gost101, I can't think of anything that would clog a volcano, but here are the things that I'd check (in case you haven't already)

• kinked tube, obstruction in filament path

• vastly oversized filament

• burr or debris in the nozzle

• insufficient stepper current or other mechanical cold end issue

I was seeing an irregular print surface on one side, I pulled the nozzle off, used a propane torch to clean it out, and a 5/64" drill bit by hand to check the barrel for burrs and other obstructions.

Thanks guys for all your help.

I think I'm sold on these dedicated 12v power supplies. They're only $35-$40.

Found a 12v power supply locally, wanted a meanwell but couldn't find one on short notice.
http://www.microcenter.com/product/446051/12V_360W_Dedicated_Power_Supply_for_3D_Printer_HEAVY_DUTY

This power supply only sees a vdrop of 0.5 volts under full load. Tuned to 12.1 idle, drops to 11.6 volts.

There's only two challenges with this type of power supply. No power switch and a really really loud fan.

I hacked on a 100mm silenx case fan and I found these to install to get a proper power switch.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/142086311320?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true

I've got his printer for another week for burn in and testing. If it all checks out I think I see some power supply upgrades in the near future for my printers.

Alright, I think we can put this one to bed.

tldr; Wrong gauge wire used for hotend heater. Getting perfect prints after using 18gauge stranded instead of what was originally used.

Truth be told, I have a client build that I'm troubleshooting, and as part of the process I upgraded him to the DuetWifi. I love this board!

dc42, your comment prodded me to examine the hot end setup, and I noticed earlier that the gauge of wire used for the hotend seemed a bit smallish. I just rigged up an alternative wiring harness using a heavier gauge wire, and the irregular surface finish all but disappeared.

I'm still concerned about the vdrop though, so I'm going to try out a dedicated 12v power supply before I hand the machine back over to its owner.

Thanks everyone for your help!

Hey dc42 & bot,

Thank you so much for your help with this. I think there are three things going on here:

• The Rostock Max Onyx heated bed is a power hog
• The Budget pc psu has a pretty extreme voltage drop while powering the onyx
• The DuetWifi is sensitive to voltage drop in this configuration

The Meanwell LRS-350-12 is only $35 from most sources. If they have less vdroop than a pc power supply, I think that's what I need to try next.

Here's my stack of test prints. Overlit at an angle to highlight the surface finish as best I can. Some are a bit bent, that's just from me yanking them off the build plate and not straightening them out. They all printed perfectly flat with no curling or lifting.

• The top two were printed with the heated bed off. To my eyes, they're perfect
• The next two going down were printed with a tuned heated bed, D=15.0. The're very good, but there are fewer, wider lines that are faint but still there. These prints are pretty good
• The bottom 5 are various prints using either bangbang or wrong pid for the heated bed.

I just ran autotune again for H0, and reduced the max pwm to S0.6.
VMin still dipped as low as 10.5, but on average VCurrent seemed to stick in the 11.5ish range every time I checked it with M122.
The sample print still has the irregular surface, same as when I used my heavier duty 750watt psu.

So far swapping out PSUs and changing the scaling factor has no appreciable effect.

Does anyone run the MeanWell LRS-350-12? I'm hoping that it doesn't suffer from VDroop like these PC Power supplies do.

[[language]]
M307 H0
Heater 0 model: gain 101.5, time constant 553.3, dead time 7.8, max PWM 0.60, in use: yes, mode: PID
Setpoint change: P124.7, I0.23, D681.1
Load change: P124.7, I4.83, D681.1

Yep, PID mode is definitely enabled.

I'm watching it print again, and the heated bed temp tends to overshoot and undershoot by up to a few degrees. PWM goes between 0% and 100%, and sometimes flashes quickly indicating some other duty cycle.

I have it hooked up to a beefier pc power supply and vdroop goes from 11.9 down to 11.0, and the artifacts are still there.
I'd say that the pid tuning parameters aren't right.

Is it time for me to switch to a meanwell dedicated 12v psu? Do they tend to hold their voltage better under load?
http://www.meanwell.com/productPdf.aspx?i=459

[[language]]
M307 H0
Heater 0 model: gain 84.8, time constant 515.0, dead time 4.2, max PWM 1.00, in use: yes, mode: PID
Setpoint change: P258.1, I0.50, D758.8
Load change: P258.1, I16.20, D758.8

Hey dc42, thanks for your prompt reply.

This generation RostockMax uses a pc power supply, and I have 6 20gauge wires from the psu going into the duet.
The wires are bundled but not soldered together, and go directly into the duet.
I'm not sure what's normal for this setup, but running all the heaters drops the +12 from 11.9 to 10.7, a 1.2v drop.

Here is what I'm seeing when running M122.

From reset, homed, bed + hotend off
Supply voltage: min 11.9, current 11.9, max 12.0, under voltage events: 0, over voltage events: 0

Enabled bed + hotend heater
Supply voltage: min 10.6, current 10.7, max 12.1, under voltage events: 0, over voltage events: 0

I'm kinda stumped on this one. For some reason running the heated bed has an impact on print quality.

The print on the left was run with the heated bed off, and the one on the right was run with the heated bed on,
This happens every time, and the striping is relatively consistent between layers with the heated bed on.

I'm seeing this artifact when I use PID on the heated bed, as well as bang-bang.
The bed heater and hotend was set up with autotune and the relevant lines added to config.g

[[language]]
9:14:30 AM  M307 H1
Heater 1 model: gain 332.7, time constant 204.8, dead time 5.6, max PWM 1.00, in use: yes, mode: PID
Setpoint change: P19.6, I0.10, D76.9
Load change: P19.6, I1.25, D76.9

9:14:26 AM  M307 H0
Heater 0 model: gain 84.8, time constant 515.0, dead time 4.2, max PWM 1.00, in use: yes, mode: PID
Setpoint change: P258.1, I0.50, D758.8
Load change: P258.1, I16.20, D758.8

From DWC and Pronterface I can verify that the hotend temp is holding to within a degree, so I'm not seeing any wild temp swings in the hotend that would explain it.

This is a RostockMaxV1 that has been upgraded with the DuetWiFi.

I've already trying lowering max pwm on the bed with S0.9 with no effect.
The bed is hooked up with 14 guage stranded.

Any help or tips would be appreciated. Thanks!

Alan