@vbtalent2 - You are correct in thinking there are a lot of variables you can control and knowing where to begin can be challenging. With PrusaSlicer, using the Beginner, Normal, and Expert modes can help. If you turn on Expert mode, all of the controls are shown, and they are color coded (Green for beginner, Yellow for normal, and Red for expert) so you can see what available and know which are usually important.

For making temperature towers, Prusa Slicer lets you insert your own gcode in sliced files in various places. In the Printers tab, under Custom G-code, there is a place where you can put some gcode that will be inserted every time a layer change happens. In this space you can add code that follows the Prusa coding conventions (https://help.prusa3d.com/article/macros_1775) and will change parameters for you. Here's an example I made for a Pressure Advance tower. It looks at a Prusa variable called layer_num and when it hits different values it inserts an M572 command to change the PA value. You can easily put a different gcode in to change the nozzle value (or just about anything else).

{if layer_num == 0} ;PA_tweaks - START M572 D0 S.028 ; Adjust pressure advance ;PA_tweaks- END {elsif layer_num == 25} ;PA_tweaks- START M572 D0 S0.03 ; Adjust pressure advance ;PA_tweaks- END {elsif layer_num == 50} ;PA_tweaks- START M572 D0 S0.035 ; Adjust Pressure advance ;PA_tweaks- END {elsif layer_num == 75} ;PA_tweaks- START M572 D0 S0.040 ; Adjust Pressure advance ;PA_tweaks- END {elsif layer_num == 100} ;PA_tweaks- START M572 D0 S0.044 ; Adjust Pressure advance ;PA_tweaks- END {elsif layer_num == 125} ;PA_tweaks- START M572 D0 S0.048 ; Adjust Pressure advance ;PA_tweaks- END

{endif}

@Fred55 they look fine as they have low inductance and phase resistance.
This is a good page to read https://docs.duet3d.com/en/User_manual/Connecting_hardware/Motors_choosing

@o_lampe Thanks.
These aren't brass water connectors. That would be too heavy! 😉
They are from coated titanium.

EDIT: I tried to save weight where it is possible. I used aluminium bolts to mount the parts on the effector. Next time it would be suffizient to machine the effector in a "L-shape" instead of a "U-shape". Actually it is more than stiff enough and that would be safing much weight.

@o_lampe said in AuruMMS - multi colour/material unit running on Duet:

Hope to see more of your machine in the future.

Reply

The cutter is independent - on the extruder in this case similar to Bambu/Voron setups.
Also have designed actuator activated cutter that can sit just above the extruder 🙂

@janjoh another way would be to use the M665 XYZ parameters to rotate the XY plane.

@Arminas A lot of work I know, but try swapping the toolboards over between the two machines? See if the problem moves or not?

@Arminas said in What could cause this kind of artefacts on surface?:

Is it safe to use 2.4A for drivers on Duet2?

I've used 6-wire NEMA23 with Duet2. I wired them to have the highest torque and it was no problem with Duet2.
A little cooling fan for the back of the board won't hurt.

So I should have looked closer at the gcode before but it's actually quite messy so there could be this

97905788-714c-46b3-a7f5-e6eb8f4afddb-image.png
de1106f6-476d-4b08-985d-8b43597d5164-image.png

Anyway I setup a wipe tower for both extruders. Created a 40mm wide, .4mm thick pipe, sliced it in the place i want the wiping to happen with the two extruders separately, extracted the gcode for 1 layer for each, deleting the G1 Zx.xx instructions, and created a macro called wipetower.g executed on every tool changes. In the macro depending on the tool selected it will extrude the corresponding circles (2 lines wide for .2mm nozzle and 1 for .4mm) at the designated place.
Will test and report

I also redesigned the cooling system that i was not really happy with, should be much better

I'll definitely look into having smoother walls for the organic support but I don't think we have much control over this...

@Candleon261990abx said in flash Forge adventure 3:

How do I, make my printer become consistent.

Add detail. eg https://forum.duet3d.com/post/53522

Ian

@oliof Hi. would you mind taking a look at my X axis graph? It looks bad, but on the other hand, the amplitude is very low.Y.JPG X.JPG I took this measurement without "capture data during the whole length of move". Y axis looks beautiful.

@o_lampe Sounds like me! Well, the 'small body' bit, anyway.

Ian

@Oscar did you do the conversion? I'm just printing all parts to start it. I think the duet wifi is more than appropriate to run the CoreXY config.

Could be some challenge to set it up though as I have to go through all the config again.

I was able to write a script in python that does what I want. Posting it here for others to reference if needed.

import sys
import re

flag = False

out = open('YOUR FILE NAME HERE'+'_adjusted'+'.gcode', 'w')

with open('YOUR FILE NAME HERE.gcode') as f:
for r in f:
if re.search('G1 F', r):
feedrate = r[3:]
flag = True
print(r[:-1] + ' ' + feedrate) # get rid of new line
elif flag:
r = r[:-1] + ' ' + feedrate
out.write(r)
flag = False # Reset flag
else:
out.write(r)
flag = False # Reset flag

@ageis What hotend? What printer? Maybe a photo?

Possibly the PTFE tube has melted in and got stuck, or heat creep has caused the filament to form a bulge that can't pass out of the hot end. You may be better extruding filament, then pulling it back once the bulge has been pushed down and melted. Or it could be that you have too much retraction, and molten filament is being pulled back and getting between the end of the PTFE tube and nozzle, forming a bulge.

To avoid in the future, try not to leave filament at temperature in the hot end for a long period of time, without extruding.

Ian

@ageis while @deckingman is correct, the (my) rule of thumb is that every printer has a 'happy' speed and going above that is going to cost you quality. Re turning the speed factor up to 200 ... why not use the slicer's built in features? Set the first layer speed at 50% and then the speed will double automatically. If your slicer has a separate speed for small features, set those to be another 50% slower. That way everything happens automatically (since you are lazy and all that 🙂 ).
Speed also is very dependant on not just the printer but things such as what filament you are running. Most filament will specify what speed is best and those are safe speeds to start at. As you work out the quirks on your printer you can increase those recommended speeds.
PLA is afaik usually specified as around 100 or 120 mm/sec but a lot of printers can run at 150% of that. Some printers will let you go to 400 mm/sec but even though they are capable, you will likely see a difference between a part printed at 100 mm/sec and one printed at 400 mm/sec. Only you can determine how good/bad your print needs to be to satisfy you.
As @deckingman says, do two back-to-back prints.
Oh, it also makes a difference of what you are printing - threads for a nut will require a slower speed than a basic square cube.

@ageis said in capacitive sensor - does it get affected by magnets:

I think I will gve the bltouch a try. My logic is, it's the only onethat actually contacts the bed. Inductive and capacitive don't actually touch the bed.

Which is a good thing to my way of thinking. They are much faster than the BLTouch since they are no parts that need to move.

Frederick

Best to replace the part first and see how that goes. If the motor current is already set appropriately for the motor you shouldn't increase it. I mainly asked in case there were places in your macros that you dropped the current for some other reason and maybe it wasn't getting returned to it's normal value.