@rjenkinsgb
Lord have mercy I am embarrassed to say the problem was in my config.g file. I think I copy/pasted someone else's BLTouch settings and didn't update them for my own printer. It is working better now! Using this guide to set it up:
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Test_and_calibrate_the_Z_probe

@phaedrux
Ok, after reversing the Z motor and the endstops, it homed on all axis!
Thank you so much, I'm sure everyone is thinking "how does this guy drive a car?" haha
Onward!

@droftarts
I think they bought this awhile back but are only just now getting around to installing it.

Well, I keep trying to post the contents from those commands but it gets flagged as spam or something..

@droftarts
Thank you for helping.

M115 returns "FIRMWARE_NAME: RepRapFirmware for Duet 2 WiFi/Ethernet FIRMWARE_VERSION: 2.0(RTOS) ELECTRONICS: Duet WiFi 1.02 or later FIRMWARE_DATE: 2018-06-05b3<LF>ok<LF>"

I downloaded the RRF2.0 link you posted, deleted the existing www folder, and created a new one with the DuetWebControl-SD-2.07.zip files.

I still get the same error. Not sure what is going on.

I formatted the SD card with the suggested utility to FAT32.

Arg!

@dc42
The complete message is "Your Duet rejected the HTTP request: page not found"

I am trying to use the Duet 2 wifi for the first time. I have connected via YAT and it says I have firmware version 2.0. I need to upgrade but I can't connect via my web browser. The duet is on the wifi and I can see what the address is with M552. But when I go to the address it says "Your Duet rejected the HTTP request". How do I fix that?

@phaedrux
Success!
Thank you so much (all)!
I can confirm M115 returns 3.2.2 in YAT
Onward!

@o_lampe
Instead of two gantries, I wonder if this design would work better with two print heads on each side for a total of 4 print heads (this one only has one on each side):
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4481112
That way you only have one Z to worry about. You can park each head until needed for 4 filament prints, and still do the duplicate/mirror function with just two heads. The hashPrinter can print four at once, definitely a plus over this!

The 3D Chameleon has a pretty neat feature where it uses the print head to hit a switch on the X axis in the right sequence to switch filaments. Maybe you could do something like that with this quad gantry to switch from using the front print heads to the back.
Just thinking out loud..

@oliof The Jubilee looks like the best option for me, hopefully they have an active support group. I already have a corexy machine I may be able to adapt! Thank you!

@oliof
what other options are there for 4 color printing?
I'd rather have direct drive hotends (no bowden tubes).
I've dabbled with Kraken and 3D chameleon, but I think 4 separate print heads ready to print are the way to go.
Note: do not search for 'hash' on CGTrader.. !

@oliof
awesome, I will check that out!
Thanks!
Edit: That looks very cool, for sure.
I think two gantries would work better though.
One could completely move up Z and be out of the way while the other is being used to print, then vice-versa. With the hash style, all the print heads are at the same height, yes?

I see all the new IDEX printers out there.
Would it be possible to build one with TWO gantry's with two print heads on each? Independent Quad Extruder?

@rjenkinsgb
Lord have mercy I am embarrassed to say the problem was in my config.g file. I think I copy/pasted someone else's BLTouch settings and didn't update them for my own printer. It is working better now! Using this guide to set it up:
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Test_and_calibrate_the_Z_probe

@rjenkinsgb
Thanks.
Does the probe have to be pressed in that far to send the signal? I assumed it would sense as soon as it touched something (IMMEDIATELY), not several mms of probe movement..

Is there a way to adjust the BLTouch sensitivity?
When I home Z it pushes it so much that my nozzles hit the bed.

@phaedrux
T3P3Tony mentions it here:
https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/25872/not-getting-data-from-filament-sensor/6?_=1641857602417

@phaedrux
Wow, I didn't even know there were different kinds.
I guess just a simple 'filament hasn't broken' type.
I was reading that you can't connect a filament sensor to the Duex5, you have to move your X and Y endstops over to it and use those for the other filament sensors.. correct?