That probably explains it. Painting the inside of the housing with matt black paint should work too.

If it is 3.3V-compatible and produces pulses as the filament passes through it, then it should work if you configure it as a "pulse generating sensor" using M591.

Actually I'm not really sure what gets run when m591 is used.

https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#Section_M591_Configure_filament_sensing

With the old way of setting up a trigger you could specify which trigger#.g file was run, but I can't see how to control what happens on trigger now with the new way. Maybe I'm missing something. But it's not clear what it actually does other than pauses and waits.

https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Connecting_and_configuring_filament-out_sensors

In the meantime you could simply have the pause and resume macros deactivate the tool and go to standby temp and then heat up again for filament swap and before resuming.

If you have a panel due You could also add some long high pitched beeps to maybe grab your attention if in ear shot.

Just a quick update. Prototype sketching is done...let´s wait for the print.

0_1528560713706_FilamentSensor.PNG

@rcarlyle It looks like it would work really well, but I just couldn't justify dropping $65usd on a filament sensor.

@dc42 Ah, I see. Well, that changes everything. Many thanks again.

@biggsis Its had a redesign and the new design prototypes are on order. I will make a new thread about it once we have an estimated date to release it.

@robm said in 99p filament monitor:

@dc42 said in 99p filament monitor:

Don't use a capacitor to remove the noise, add a resistor between the output and the non-inverting input of the LM393 instead. Last time someone had this problem I think I suggested about 47K and he ended up using 45K; but lower (e.g. 22k) should work too.

with the 0.01 uF cap in place the best I got was 97% - 103%
adding a 33k resistor I got to 99% - 102%
removing the cap (testing resistor only) I got 98% - 104%

so (a) probably both are of benefit, and (b) probably all of these measures are noisy and overlap.

The resistor is the technically correct solution. That board must have been designed by an amateur, because a professional electronics engineer would have included the resistor in the design.

Lower value resistors will give more noise immunity, but if the resistor is too low then it won't respond at all.

You can reduce the motor current while loading filament to avoid bending it. See https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Stall_detection_and_sensorless_homing#Section_Using_extruder_stall_detection_during_filament_loading.

this is if you have a filament monitor - there are a few different versions designed or in beta test, no clear winner as yet…

@T3P3Tony:

How are you finding the accuracy of the magnetic sensor?

With my 3mm x 5mm magnet and and around 25mm circumference on the sensor hob I'm getting +/- 25% for E3.0. E1.0 takes that to +/-30%, E15 gets me +/- 5%.
So clearly there's better accuracy if the magnet can spin more. Gearing it would be effective but that's even more complicated mounting.

Did you experiment with different shape magnets? I found a 2mm x 9mm bar option but shipping is expensive; do you think that would improve the sensor accuracy?

@dc42:

See my post today in the separate thread about the laser filament monitor.

Yes, I just found it myself as well and tried to come here to edit my message but you beat me to it.

Link here, for others:
https://www.duet3d.com/forum/thread.php?id=3667&p=5

Which laser module are you using and how much resolution are you getting on the filament movement?

Nonlinear extrusion and pressure advance are not applied to retraction, reprime and other non-printing moves. But pressure advance reduces the amount of retraction you need, because pressure advance reverses the filament movement before the end of the deceleration phase of a fast extruding move.

Yes I think there is a firmware bug. The min and max values should be more like 80% and 120%.

Calibration needs to know how your whole system behaves, includinging retractions. That's why it's best to use a real print to calibrate. You can easily create a calibration file to print if you just want to test simple extrusion moves, e.g.:

G1 X0 Y0 Z10 F5000
M83
G1 X100 E100 F240 ; extrude 100mm at 4mm/sec
G1 X0 E100 F240 ; extrude 100mm at 4mm/sec

Make sure you do X or Y movement as well as extrusion so that the firmware treats it as a printing move.

Thank you dc42 for the tip found the thread on reddit and already contacted e3d support , I am waiting for a replacement meanwhile I am using a printed one.

Thank you very much .. that will help a lot .. hopefully someday we'll be able to use the DueX5 endstops as well.

This will give me enough as I've read the GCodes on the wiki several times to at least give some points to experiment with.