@martin1454 said in Ender 3 nothing working right:

I think it is amazing that you have installed an Duet wifi in a printer that cost almost the same as the duet
Looking foward to see then end result.

My Maestro Ender 3 works fantastic. I saw it as a cheap way to acquire the basic bits, and build what I wanted. I probably could have sourced the same parts from China for less, but this was a lot easier and faster.

@brunofporto said in Indirect (bearing) laser filament monitor concept:

@steveyyc Unfortunately yes....

The direct bearing seems too slippery for this use.

I'll think about another solution.

The best answer would be a garnet blast or something similar on the external diameter.

@t3p3tony Actually, it wouldn't surprise me if that other board is just the WiFi. He said if you have an Octoprint you don't need the hub. They designed it to integrate with Octoprint. So even though the Duet already has wireless and much of the Octoprint functionality, at least in the short term you probably need either the hub or an Octoprint Pi for this to work over network. One way or another you need a USB connection from Palette2 or Pi. I'm not really a fan of depending on USB for expensive multi-day print jobs. I fully understand why they went this way. For the Pro I believe they will eventually need the ability to have all communication over wired ethernet, or something equally robust.

What kind of part cooling?

Can anyone provide me with the baseline settings for speeds and etc. for an Ender 3? I'm not sure how many people have installed the Duet on one. I guess I could find the settings in the Marlin code from GitHub, but I was hoping someone had the Duet settings handy to just copy/paste. Or even the JSON file would work. Mine is working, but I'm not sure how well it's optimized.

@brunofporto Thanks, I'm starting with your design on my Ender 3 printed with eSun black PLA. I think you need a bit more surface area "bite" on the tubing.

I have had those on both my printers. In both cases I had seepage, so an extra thermal bridge formed by schmutz between heat sink and heat block. FYI

@dc42 said in Configuring 12864 LCD on Maestro?:

The most common connection scheme for 12864 displays is the one used by the RepRapDiscount Smart Graphics Controller. This is an open source design described at https://reprap.org/wiki/RepRapDiscount_Full_Graphic_Smart_Controller. That was in turn based on the connections used by 20x4 text displays. Unfortunately the display on the Ender 3 uses a different scheme.

A single 10-way connection would in principle be sufficient for a display without a SD card socket, but doesn't provide enough pins for both the LCD and the SD card.

Figures And apparently Creality inverted the pins. The display has no SD card. They managed to get the display and the encoder over a single 8 pin cable to their CPU board. I guess the Maestro has pins needed for the encoder on one connector and the display on another one.

Almost nothing on the Ender matches Duet wiring. I had to juggle wires everywhere on mine. Creality doesn't even follow industry standards when they exist

Let me add that mine prints amazingly well now

Solutech clear green PETG

Duet3D laser filament monitor on endstop input 3, disabled, allowed movement 40% to 120%, check every 3.0mm, current position -1.7, brightness 107, shutter 17, measured minimum 31%, average 79%, maximum 97% over 17533.6mm

@oliof Thanks, I just realized that my original Duet is the Maestro. The Ender has the Ethernet board. The Maestro is in a drawer. Actually, I would REALLY prefer to go the CAN bus route now that I think about it. I guess my Maestro is retired for good It sounds like the RatRig 4 with a newer Duet may be top of the list. I have a LOT of the bones left over from my old CoreXY. Not least of which a REALLY sweet industrial 24 volt PSU I scored.

I have a fairly geeked out Ender 3 with a Duet 2 ethernet and also a spare Duet 2 wifi board. I'm thinking of ditching the bed slinger and settling on one enclosed coreXY. The WiFi was originally in a 300 x 300 x 300 coreXY I built from scratch. I'd be pretty happy with 200 x 200 now. But I would like mostly metal kinematic parts if possible. Is there a thread or group somewhere tracking the best options for Duet retrofits. I realize it raises a thousand question. One thing I stumbled into recently was a RatRig kit. I have been out of the game a while, and honestly I just want to build one fairly reliable printer I can pull out of the closet from time to time. My Ender is E3D v6 / Bondtech, and I was thinking maybe the new E3D or a Slice engineering. Hoping to optimize for Matterhackers Ryno and/or PETG-CF class of materials. I have a lot of Ryno I never used. I print engineering and functional parts, not art or game related stuff. I'm not exactly sure if it makes sense to retrofit any modern coreXY Asia built printer these days.

For the record, 3.0RC1 on my Maestro seems to have the same issue Duets have always had for me. The DWC sometimes dies part way through the print. The print completes, but a hard reset is the only way to get the DWC working again. This happened in my WiFi as well.

@c310 said in RepRapFirmware 3.0RC1 released:

@3dmntbighker WoW! thanks!!!

I had to "guess" the same thing 2 days ago because they didn't include those port names under Maestro? I presumed the names would be the same as on Duet WiFi (which I also have with a PT100).

@c310 said in RepRapFirmware 3.0RC1 released:

need configuration help to connect PT100 via board to DuetWiFi 2 v1.03

after upgrade to rrf-3 i changed config and everything works but the extruder temp sensor. it shows 2000 deg...
downgrading to 2.05 shows correct temperature.

here are related lines:

old RRF2 config

M305 P1 S"T0" X200 R395 W2		

M143 H1 S350 A0 				; max temp 350 on heater 1, fault if above 
M570 S60 H1 P10 T15 				; Hot end may be a little slow to heat 		
M563 P0 D0 H1 F2                                ; tool definition

RRF-3

M308 S1 P"e0_temp" Y"rtd-max31865" R395 F50
M950 H1 C"e0_heat" T1				; heater 1 uses the e0_heat pin and sensor 1

M143 H1 S350 A0 				; max temp 350 on heater 1, fault if above 
M570 S60 H1 P10 T15 				; Hot end may be a little slow to heat 		
M563 P0 D0 H1 F2                                ; tool definition

w

M308 S1 P"spi.cs1" Y"rtd-max31865" R395 F50

I have an Ender 3 with Maestro, Bondtech, E3Dv6.

My advice:

Flip the Z so the motor is on top (I cobbled together a mount, which was cake) , no dual Z

I messed with 0.9 motors before and they were more trouble than they were worth. Especially on a direct drive extruder. You would be better served by a geared stepper on Z.

The Hemera should be awesome

If you don't have a Pro you need to widen the Y rail. I would not just stick a single linear rail there. I would stay with rollers and a wider rail. 3 point is also preferred to 4.

Mine has the updated hard clear rollers. They are well worth it.

Put in a good part cooling duct with opposing cooling ducts. Might be a challenge to find for Hemera. I dislike the single sided ducts.

@deckingman said in RepRapFirmware 3.0RC1 released:

@3dmntbighker TBH, I didn't know that S0 had been withdrawn either. I was going by this thread https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/13136/m574-usage-on-rrf-3 where David said his intention was not to withdraw S0.

That's what we get for being bleeding edge. I don't ask for apologies

DC is "the man". He's done as much for my 3D printing as anyone.

@dc42 said in RepRapFirmware 3.0RC1 released:

This is covered In the upgrade notes. S0 is no longer supported in M574. Use S1 and invert the pin using ! at the start of the pin name.

It's not noted in the M574 section of the RepRap changes document. Nor on the main G-code page. Which does have many notations about RRF3.

Thanks, I'm operational now. I had some issues with the Piezo sensor but I resolved those.

@gtj0 said in RepRapFirmware 3.0RC1 released:

@3dmntbighker said in RepRapFirmware 3.0RC1 released:

I think the stuff after the T0 is just from copying from the DWC web page.

In any case, try putting the "M669 K1" at the top of the file. I don't think it'll make a difference but it may.

Yeah, looking at the file directly on the SD card it looks normal. I can enter M669 K1 in the console and no difference. It really seems to be an issue with M574? There seems to be no way to change the end stop from active high to active low. Changing M574 it always acts the same.

So, my config.g is shown above. But if I "select all" in the editor and paste into a standard text editor I get the following (ignore the extra stuff I had clipped out):

0:/sys/config.g
; *** CoreXY sample config file for dc42 Duet firmware

M111 S0				; Debug off

; Network
M550 P"5Rails"                     ; Set machine name
M552 P192.168.1.100 S1             ; Enable network set IP
M553 P255.255.255.0                ; Netmask
M554 P192.168.1.1                  ; Gateway
M586 P0 S1                         ; Enable HTTP
M586 P1 S0                         ; Disable FTP
M586 P2 S0                         ; Disable Telnet

M555 P2				; Set output to look like Marlin
; M575 P1 B57600 S1		; Comms parameters for PanelDue

; *** Machine configuration
M569 P0 S1				; Drive 0 goes forwards (change to S0 to reverse it)
M569 P1 S1				; Drive 1 goes forwards
M569 P2 S0				; Drive 2 goes backwards
M569 P3 S1				; Drive 3 goes forwards
M569 P4 S1				; Drive 4 goes forwards
; *** If you use an endstop switch for Z homing, change Z0 to Z1 in the following line, and see also M558 command later in this file

; Endstops
M574 X1 S0 P"xstop"   ; X min active low endstop switch
M574 Y1 S0 P"ystop"   ; Y min active low endstop switch
M574 Z1 S0 P"zstop"   ; Z min active low endstop switch
M591 D0 P2 C"e0_stop" S1	; E0 filament sensor active high 
; M915 X Y S5 R0 F0 	; set X and Y to sensitivity 5, do nothing when stall, unfiltered... NOT on Maestro :-(

M669 K1					; set CoreXY mode
M564 H0					; Allow moves prior to homing
M92 X100 Y100 Z1000			; Set axis steps/mm
M92 E415				; Set extruder steps/mm
; M203 X15000 Y15000 Z1500 E3600	; Maximum speeds (mm/sec)
; M566 X600 Y600 Z50 E900		; Maximum jerk speeds mm/sec
M350 X16 Y16 Z16 E16 I1			; Configure microstepping with interpolation
M906 X1000 Y1000 Z800 E800 I50	        ; Set motor currents (mA)
M201 X1000 Y1000 Z100 E900		; Accelerations (mm/s^2)
; M203 X40000 Y30000 Z800 E1800		; Maximum speeds (mm/sec)
M203 X4000 Y3000 Z800 E1800		; Maximum speeds (mm/sec)
M566 X800 Y800 Z50 E800			; Maximum jerk speeds mm/sec

M208 X300 Y275 Z330			; set axis maxima (adjust to suit your machine)
M208 X0 Y0 Z0 S1			; set axis minima (adjust to make X=0 and Y=0 the edges of the bed)
G21					; Work in millimetres
G90					; Send absolute coordinates...
M83					; ...but relative extruder moves

; Z probe type
M558 P8 I1 R2 A5 F400 T3000 H5              ; Peizo Z probe, also used for homing the Z axis

G31 Z0.2 P600                      ; Set the probe height and threshold (put your own values here)
; The following M557 commands are not needed if you are using a bed.g file to perform bed compensation
; *** Adjust the XY coordinates in the following M557 commands to suit your build and the position of the Z probe
M557 X25:275 Y15:265 S50                      ;
M375                                        ; Load heightmap.csv
M376 H10                                    ; Taper off bed compensation up to 10mm

; Thermistors and heaters
; *** If you have a Duet board with 1K thermistor series resistors, change R4700 to R1000 to the following M305 commands
; You can also use S and B parameters to define the parameters of the thermistors you are using
M308 S0 P"bed_temp" Y"thermistor" R2200 T100000 B3950	; Put your own H and/or L values here to set the bed thermistor ADC correction
M308 S1 Y"rtd-max31865" R400 P"spi.cs1" F60			; Activate PT100 hotend temp sensor
M950 H0 C"bed_heat" T0 ; heater 0 uses the bed_heat pin, sensor 0
M950 H1 C"e0_heat" T1 ; heater 1 uses the e0_heat pin and sensor 1
; M305 P1 R4700 H0 L0			; Put your own H and/or L values here to set the first nozzle thermistor ADC correction
; M305 P2 R4700 H0 L0			; Put your own H and/or L values here to set the second nozzle thermistor ADC correction
; M301 H1 P10 I0.10 D100 T0.50 S1.0	; PID settings for extruder 0
; M307 H0 A90.0 C700.0 D10.0 S1.00 V0.0 B1 ; Old bed heater PID settings
; M307 H1 A497.3 C234.6 D3.7 B0		; ***Auto tune derived 30W preferred extruder 0 PID settings ***
; M308 P101 X1001 S"DuetDriversTemp"	; Virtual heater to display stepper driver over temp flags
M501                                    ; Load config_override.g for 40W Auto tune
; M301 H2 P10 I0.10 D100 T0.50 S1.0	; PID settings for extruder 1

; Tool definition
M563 P0 D0 H1				; Define tool 0
G10 P0 S0 R0			; Set tool 0 operating and standby temperatures
; *** If you have a dual-nozzle build, un-comment the following 3 lines
; M563 P1 D1 H2				; Define tool 1
; G10 P1 S0 R0				; Set tool 1 operating and standby temperatures

; *** If you are using axis compensation, put the figures in the following command
M556 S78 X0 Y0 Z0			; Axis compensation here

; M98 PStartup.g                  ; Play tune

T0				; select first hot end
5Rails
Send code...
Status
Idle
Mode: FFF
Tool Position
X
20.0
Y
0.0
Z
0.01
Extruder Drives
Drive 0
0.0
Speeds
Requested Speed
0 mm/s
Top Speed
0 mm/s
Sensors
Vin
24.2 V
MCU Temperature
40.5 C
 Tools
 Extra
 Control All
Tool	Heater	Current	Active	Standby
Tool 0
T0 - PLA	Heater 1
active	23.2 C	
0
0
Bed	Heater 0
off	22.5 C	
0
0
Temperature Chart
System Directory

Is the extra stuff at the end normal?