@phoenix

Hello, thank you for sharing this. I have a question — I own a ToolChanger controlled by a Duet 3 MB6HC board, and there are 4 tools installed. Tool “T4” is a Smart Orbiter V3.0, which is connected to a ToolBoard 1LC V1.3. I was wondering whether it is possible to use the functionalities of the Smart Orbiter V3.0 by connecting them directly to the ToolBoard 1LC V1.3. Thank you in advance for your reply, it would be a great help.

According to E3D guys, the piezo can't handle non uniform pre-tightening, as it may crack the element. That's why they use a central bolt (they use a drilled screw to let the filament pass through).

So, I designed a similar setup for my hotend :

PZ Probe

I can screw it on the hotend, and on the mount. This will require to drill/cut a standard hex screw, and CNC the 2 other parts (or have them 3D printed in metal).

Just want to say thanks - this works a treat!!

My vision is almost fully realized! I must have jinxed myself in my last post. No show stoppers, but have hit a couple issues:
1- you might notice the ethernet jack isn't soldered. It's just dry-fit for show right now. I removed it after realizing that my part didn't match the footprint i used. It was a physical fit, but pins were wrong. I could only find the matching part overseas, so still waiting. I intend to update the schematic/layout to use a more common magjack. In the meantime wireless is working great.
2- the 12v/24v regulator isn't behaving all the way up to 5A. It's fine up to 3A, but starts cutting out above 4A. I forgot to upgrade the inductor and diode when I moved my target from 3A to 5A. That's probably part of it. I need to take another look at the layout too. Thankfully 5v appears reliable all the way up to 5A. The printer i'm going to test this out on doesn't need the aux supply, so no biggie for now.
3 - when I added the Molex KK PC style fan header, I mistakenly assumed the Pi5's 4 pin connector followed the same standard. Nope. Easy fix. Happy accident to get to trim the wires down and solder in the correct places. (I guess I could have rearranged the connectors too, but ick)

Next step is to actually connect to a Duet3 🙂

IMG_9231.jpg IMG_9232.jpg

@daninet Hi! have you succeeded with orbiter smart sensor setup? I am planning to install this sensor on toolboard 1LC, I am wondering if this manual https://www.orbiterprojects.com/orbiter-filament-sensor/ for RRF Duet boards will be okay. I have ordered an new version - https://docs.ratrig.com/v-core-4-0/orbiter-2-smart-sensor

@damaged_goods sounds to me like replacing the pin wasn't successful in fixing the BLTouch, so it's probably time to buy a replacement. There's not much you can do on the Duet side if the probe itself is broken!

@droftarts thanks on that. Still there is something not right as it does not react to pin low, 0V, for long pause.

Update - I had a problem with PS. Something with wiring as after I checked it, all is working now. Selection and loading as well. Still waiting for steeperonline motors as I use one from extruder pancake, not strong for selector to keep it in position.
Thanks!!

@jay_s_uk thanks, I was hoping this was the case 🙂 it's a better option than using multiple tool boards!, I'll be keeping eye open for any updates

@supertb1
thanks a lot your post help me to set my smart sensor. Appreciated

@droftarts thanks for replying.
This model you mentioned, from aliexpress, theoretically doesn't need any changes to the wiring, right?

@KnyteTech looks good, but I suggest you use P1 instead of S1 in the M950 command.

Sorry for the late update I ran into some other issues I needed to take care of.

So it looks like I got this working after I fixed a few issues. I managed to print a temp tower without issue, maybe I'll have problems in the future with other prints.

Installed a mount close by the extruder (around 1" of distance between the sprite pro extruder Removed my filament-error.g (it was trying to pause then run filament-error.g) Used the BTT recomended g-code but adjusted E value to 22 Changed my retraction speed to 60mm/s

Here is the g-code I'm using

; Filament Monitor (Filament Runout Sensor, Big Tree Tech - Smart Filament Sensor V2) M591 D0 P7 C"io0.in" L2.88 R75:125 S2 E22

@AJ-Quick From where can I get this board?

@jay_s_uk Okay, thank you for you help 🙂

@Muhammed the PS_ON pin could be used for this purpose, but you must connect a flyback diode (the right way round!) in parallel with the relay coil, to protect the output from the coil back emf when you turn the relay off.

Alternatively, use a relay module instead of a bare a relay, then you should be able to drive from one of the pins on the expansion header.

@infiniteloop Thank you so much for your reply. This will give me a push forward.

@Ryosuke-Saito In my experience with other brushless step/dir interfaces it is the other way round:
A stepper with 200/400 polepairs versus a BLDC motor with eg. 10 or 15 PP needs way more pulses per revolution.
The good thing about FOC is, you can fake a much higher resolution than there is. The microstepping works here, too.
So I configured my gimbal motor drivers the same way as the steppers and they work flawlessly as extruder drive.

@ELAD . Is it working properly? I am designing a laser cutter with the ODRIVEs. Please let me know

@dc42
Hi, that did the Trick.
Thanks fo the wise answer.