@fcwilt, agreed. I go down to 50% of my normal speed and small features are reduced another 50% (molasses in the high artic moves faster)

@roth the sensor just senses the angular position of the motor shaft. By itself, it doesn't provide closed loop control of the motor. So the sensor By itself isn't useful, it needs the 1HCL board to do the closed loop control.

The 1HCL board has its own processor, power regulators, CAN interface etc. and is capable of driving motors at up to 6A peak and 48V. It's really aimed at Nema 23 and Nema 34 motors driving larger machines, and I appreciate that it's rather expensive for use with Nema 17 motors.

@Phaedrux Not sure if it had to do with all the settings being redone or the firmware update but it is working now. Thank you!

@dc42

Thank you so much!

Solved

The CRTouch was fried and my code was bunk.

I’ll dedicate the first Benchy to you guys

@KenW Thanks. I think Ive found that mounting it to the side of the printer without a bowden tube was causing too many inconsistency issues. I stuck it right on the top of my matrix and it seems to be working consistently. It's just kind of bobble-heading right now though which Im not a huge fan of, I'll have to figure something out...

@dc42 sweet!!! crossing my fingers! thank you!

@Yukikaze thanks. I'll look at what would need to be done to make the file list menu item work in SBC mode.

@NZSmartie

Hi, any chance you could share your filament 1 macro?

Thanks

@Lakko you don't use the paneldue pins, it uses wifi
https://github.com/Duet3D/RepRapFirmware/wiki/JSON-responses

@OwenD Understood now, thank you.

@frnknstn518 said in klicky probe setup help:

i checked the wiring, and when connected lights are on. When i press the switch it goes off.

Which lights are on when the probe is connected, and go off when you press the switch?

What Z probe values does DWC report, when the switch is pressed and when it is not pressed?

Please send M558 with no parameters to check whether the configuration you provided was accepted.

@frnknstn518 said in klicky probe setup help:

M558 P8 C"!121.io2.in" X0 Y0 Z1 H3F200 T5000 ; K is probe type, P5 for NC switch, C input pin, H is dive height, F is probing speed, T is travel speed, A is number of probes

The comment says it is a NC switch, however you have used a ! at the start of the pin name, which would be correct for a NO switch.

Glad you got it sorted out. CRTouch is definitely a tricky one with the wacky wiring colors and no clear pinout and multiple versions.

@FLY

Any progress on this matter ??

@o_lampe It worked out!! thank you!!

I have the following code in start.g to visualize that the print has started.
I am using two Adafruit 8np for this.

M291 P"Start.g wird ausgeführt" S0 M98 P"/Macros/SUB/CheckDoor" ;Door open or closed M98 P"/Macros/LED/rot blau blinken" M561 M106 P3 S0 G4 S1 M106 P3 S25 G4 S1 M106 P3 S0 G4 S1 M98 P"/Macros/LED/grün" M290 R0 S0 M106 P3 S25 ;dimme LED for IR Probe M98 P"/Macros/LED/rot blau blinken" M98 P"/Macros/SUB/Preheat" ;Preheat for Loaded Filament if !move.axes[0].homed || !move.axes[1].homed || !move.axes[2].homed M150 R0 U0 B0 Y0 G28 G28 Z0 M98 P"/Macros/Buildplate" ;Load Hightmap for Buildplate and Filament M98 P"config_probe.g" M150 R255 S16 G4 P100 M150 Y0 S16 G4 P100 M150 R255 S16 G4 P100 M150 Y0 S16 G4 P100 M150 R255 S16 M150 Y0 S16 G4 P100 M150 B255 S16 G4 P100 M150 Y0 S16 G4 P100 M150 B255 S16 G4 P100 M150 Y0 S16 G4 P100 M150 R255 S16 G4 P100 M150 Y0 S16 G4 P100 M150 R255 S16

I also use the LED to visualize when the door is opened - 5 seconds of red when it's opened and 5 seconds of green when it's closed again.

@engikeneer Thanks for everyone's help, including Idris, who responded to an Email with some great suggestions. I got the sensor working basically taking everyone's suggestions: 1/4 turn out mounting screws, faster probe speed (now 450), and lower jerk (accel @ 20). Then it was just a matter of fin-tuning the onboard potentiometer and being patient.

@frank26080115 the connector is usually reliable, but the crimps can be poor or the wire can fracture inside the insulation next to the crimp if the motion of the tool causes the wire to flex one way and then the other repeatedly.

For a PT100, an increase in reading of 20C corresponds to about 8 ohms resistance at room temperature.

@Terradive said in BTT Smart filament sensor setup:

@jay_s_uk I have also installed a .9 stepper motor on my extruder. I tried doubling the l amounts to compensate but that did not owrk.

When you installed the 0.9 stepper did you also modify your E steps per mm?

@Terradive said in BTT Smart filament sensor setup:

I moved the xstop cable over to the e0 slot and tapped the button a couple of times. The light flickered.

So it sounds like the E0 endstop is responding correctly.

@Terradive said in BTT Smart filament sensor setup:

I'm not real great with multimeters

To test continuity of the cable going between the endstop port and the sensor you would set your multimeter to continuity mode and then touch a probe to an end of the wire at the same time. The meter will usually beep when there is a connection.

Here's an illustrated example of it. https://www.wikihow.com/Test-Continuity-with-a-Multimeter

Can you show a screenshot of the gcode console after sending M591 D0or M591 D1 depending which tool you're using after it has paused?

I don't think there is anything wrong with the Duet itself.

@BlueDust said in Precision Piezo z probes guide for duet users reference:

@en_passant
Try swapping the wires from the Piezo Sensor to the Piezo motherboard.

If the Piezo triggers on press, its correct, but if it triggers on release try swapping the sensor wires and see if that fixes it.

I feel like I'm endlessly trying to get my underbed piezo's work. I'm using the Precision Piezo – Piezo Z-Probe Universal Kit V2.75

I'm using analog settings and have my bed setup in such a way that the piezo is supported along the edged and another part presses into the center.

It worked okay before, I have tuned them to be as sensitive as I can get them, when I read the comment about reversing polarity of the discs I was intrigued and it appeared that my discs would also only get a signal upon release and not upon depression of the bed.

So I turned around the wires for the discs and it actually made it way worse. Now the nozzle has just been pushing into the bed so hard that it deformed and damaged my printing surface.

Reversing the polarity again back to how I think it should be, the probing works a lot better but still it tends to push hard into the bed, just not as hard as to damage the surface.

There once was a time where my setup worked better, having a near-hair trigger. I would like to find that again.

Are there other things I can try such as tuning the dive speed for each probe? I have seen some people use this underbed piezo setup with great success and it looks like their probing scheme moves much faster than mine. I'm thinking a faster dive speed might also help with getting better readings.

These are my current settings:

M558 P5 R1 C"!probe" H2 F3000 T6000 B1 ; set Z probe type to effector and the dive height + speeds G31 P100 X0 Y0 Z-0.216 S0

I also find it hard to get an exact adjustment on VR2, it's either triggered by me tapping the frame and only a fraction of a turn, and it barely registers tapping on the bed.

Update:
Just wanted to add that I have been tuning the feedrates for probing a bit and raising the speeds have helped make it more precise.

This is what I got now:
https://youtube.com/shorts/eEXjATJ_640

The only issue being that the machine doesn't seem to print perfect first layers across the bed. Would a Delta printer require a mesh from G29? The bed is perfectly flat (alu bed), even when heated.

I'm thinking any typenof distortion is still caused by the auto calibration despite consistently hitting sub 0.03 deviation as can be seen in the video.