Smart Effector including toolboard-capabilities?
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@o_lampe said in Smart Effector including toolboard-capabilities?:
@garyd9
I tried to slice your version of mrac1's D3D with 0.8mm nozzle, I see a problem with the long hole for the stepper.You might need to enable a slicer option to extrude thin lines. I've only ever tested with a 0.4 nozzle and 0.4mm wide extrusions. If that doesn't work, load up the .step file and thicken that area.
BTW: I found a cheaper/stronger motor for Orbiter and Sherpa mini. It's 2mm longer than the LDO. Will it still fit for the SmartEffector?
That depends on your particular delta printer, what arm spacing you're using, the size of your build area in relation to the distance of the delta verticals to the build area, etc.
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@o_lampe said in Smart Effector including toolboard-capabilities?:
BTW: I found a cheaper/stronger motor for Orbiter and Sherpa mini. It's 2mm longer than the LDO. Will it still fit for the SmartEffector?
there's a very recent alternative if you want more torque : http://ez3dpstore.com/PRE-ORDER-Sherpa-Mini--NEMA14--8t-Pinion-Motor_p_69.html
8t instead of 10t, still in pre-order state tho, but worth the wait imo
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@hergonoway
Changing the gear ratio is just a trick IMHO, you win more torque but loose retraction speed.
They don't say much about the motor as such. Their 1004 motor has significantly different windings than the 36HS2418. It's trimmed for torque (high inductivity) but overheats fast, because of the high coil-resistance.
The motor I picked is meant for the Hitchhiker, where speed is more important than grunt. -
@o_lampe yeah heat concerns me a bit, but I generally print mechanical parts in ASA or PCmax, so it "should" be ok, I still have to print my version of the D3D tho to see it for myself. Regarding retraction speed, it implies going from 50:10 to 50:8 so there's no impact since we're dealing in the <1mm field. I could be slightly concerned for jerk but I need to test it beforehand.
That's remind me that V1 of HextrudORT should be available
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@hergonoway
I have to read up on ASA or PCmax filaments as alternative for ABS (I'm done with that) Do they need a heated chamber? -
@o_lampe said in Smart Effector including toolboard-capabilities?:
@hergonoway
I have to read up on ASA or PCmax filaments as alternative for ABS (I'm done with that) Do they need a heated chamber?For ASA, no need. For PCmax, if you've got a chamber, I'd say it's better to use it especially if you target big printed pieces, but it's not mandatory. PC tend to build internal stress while being 3D printed. But you can anneal PCmax easily after print since glass temp is high, I usually anneal my pieces between 1h30 and 2 hour in the oven and let it temper as the oven cool down.
I personnaly don't have an heated chamber and print both without issue.
Also my advice for 2021 is to simply abandon ABS, it never has been a good material filament for FDM, just let it go. ASA is a far better alternative.
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@hergonoway said in Smart Effector including toolboard-capabilities?:
@o_lampe said in Smart Effector including toolboard-capabilities?:
@hergonoway
I have to read up on ASA or PCmax filaments as alternative for ABS (I'm done with that) Do they need a heated chamber?For ASA, no need.
...
ASA is a far better alternative.I've been printing ABS for a few years in an old (fully enclosed) FlashForge Creator Pro (that I converted to use a Duet.) For most parts, I haven't had any problems. Once in a while if I try to print a large "solid" piece, it might split, but it's usually great for higher heat mechanical parts.
I've never tried ASA simply because it's harder to get. Spools of ABS are dirt cheap and extremely common. ASA, not so much. However, I've always read that it's nearly identical to ABS as far as printing. To me, that suggests a heated (or at least enclosed) chamber. Is that incorrect?
My favorite material for high temp resistance is a PC blend that Sno-Labs sells that they call "PC+." I can print that stuff without issue on my open air delta printer, and it has very low shrinkage (compared to ABS) which implies very low warpage. For the most part, it prints similar to PETG for me (with a higher nozzle temp of 260C and my PEI bed at around 70C.) The resulting prints are also very similar to PETG as far as strength and durability (and flexibility of the plastic.) The biggest difference is the much higher heat resistance.
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@mrac1 could you share a step/F3z file of your double blower mod for the mosquito I definitely need to try that, it looks awesome, but I can't find it on your thingiverse page... I assume that you've got a 713maker mount too.
I thought it was in the D3E step file, but I can't find it in either.
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Having got a Delta i want to upgrade the electronics and add a smart effector....
Do you have any idea on a timeline for a combined smart effector and toolboard? This is something that would push me to the Duet 3 rather than the Duet 2 but i understand its difficult to plan if and when new inovations might get done
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@opentoideas I don't think it will be available in the next 6 months, but I hope we will have it within a year.
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thank you, that pushes me towards the Duet 3 mini - there are other upgrades I want to do so I will just change the order I do them in and hopefully the combined effector will be available by the time I run out of other things to do.
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@dc42 that assumption seemingly has proven to be true
Still eagerly awaiting an updated smart effector. It's one of the best things that ever happened to Delta 3D printers imho but with InputShaping coming up and more and more featherweight extruder designs an integrated accelerometer or refresh of the SE altogether would be very welcome
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I wanted to add this has been a educational thread for me as to some of the constraints on Delta designs.
I don't know if I would switch to a smart effector over the SE300 but a revision that includes this would make me give consideration to losing the print area outside the triangle of the towers.
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