I ended up buying the Nema 8 below and making an adapter plate for it. Running it at 500ma,
Jerk 90, Acceleration 75. I use an advance of about 0.06 when using a 0.4mm nozzle.

So far it seems to work great and has really helped keep the speed up and made retractions much faster. Hasn't stalled even when manually commanding it at 10mm/s (24mm^3/s) through at 0.4mm nozzle. I don't expect to ever print that fast with that small of a nozzle but just wanted to make sure it wouldn't stall when I wound it up to full speed.

https://www.omc-stepperonline.com/hybrid-stepper-motor/nema-8-bipolar-18deg-4ncm-57ozin-06a-6v-20x20x38mm-4-wires-8hs15-0604s.html

Oh .. I see. Thanks for help.

I use different ones depending on the hot end and filament. Here is an example but unless you have a mixing hot end, it probably won't be much use

Start g.code
G28; home all
; layer_height =[layer_height]
G10 P0 S185 R185 ; Set tool 0 operating and standby temperatures
G10 P1 S185 R185 ; Set tool 1 operating and standby temperatures
G10 P2 S185 R185 ; Set tool 2 operating and standby temperatures
G10 P3 S185 R185 ; Set tool 3 operating and standby temperatures
G1 Y364 F9000 ; move to Y =max
T0; select a tool 0
M109 S185 ; complete tool heating to 185 and wait.
M83; Set extruder to relative

End gcode
G10 ; retract
G91 ; set relative positioning
G1 Z5 F240 ; move bed down 5mm
G90 ; back to absolute positioning
G1 X165 Y300 F9000; Move head to rear
M300 S2500 P500 ; play beep to indicate end of print
G10 P0 S-273 R-273 ; Set tool 0 operating and standby temperatures
G10 P1 S-273 R-273 ; Set tool 1 operating and standby temperatures
G10 P2 S-273 R-273 ; Set tool 2 operating and standby temperatures
G10 P3 S-273 R-273
M106 S0 ; turn off print cooling fan
M140 S0; Turn off bed

Maximum speed, acceleration and jerk settings set in config.g are always observed.

Absolutely working. Sorry for late reply. Thanks.

Just to update on this. I received the parts back to assess what might have been the cause given that this patterning was highly unusual from a Flex3Drive. Not seen before, anomaly!

Returned unit was fitted to a machine. Printed perfectly, Found deformation on plastics due to heavy over tightening of bolts. Was able to recreate the issue to confirm s thats good.. Steps taken to prevent recurrance.

My delta also has a 600mm Bowden tube and I need 6mm retraction. I hope the retraction needed may be a little less when I replace the tubing with Capricorn tubing.

The two Z motor connectors on the Duet are connected in series, not in parallel as they are on some other boards. So you should not increase the current just because there are 2 motors.

It seems to be that S3D generates the skirt by duplicating every vertex and connecting the duplicate vertexes to draw the outline… making a segment that is a function of the skirt offset distance. In theory, by choosing a larger offset you may be able to mitigate this... but that seems like a bad solution to a silly problem.

@DocTrucker:

"…..............Is there a way (other than fudging diameter) to supply an extrusion multiplier to the duet with gcode?"

Not really. You can use the sliders or you enter M221 via the console or embed an M221 in the start gcode. There are other ways to change the amount that gets extruded. Some people alter the steps per mm but I prefer to keep that as calibrated and adjust the extrusion multiplier (which is what it's for). Some people print a small test piece when ever they get a new reel of filament, ascertain the extrusion multiplier then right that value on a sticky label and attach it to the spool.

"Also any way to check nozzle temps?"

Whatever you do, you are only comparing one measuring device (the one built into the hot end) with another. Generally, it's difficult to find a better place to measure the temperature than where the hot sensor is installed. You might use a more accurate sensor but still end with a measurement error if you try and read the temperature on the outside of the nozzle instead of inside the hot end. TBH, I used to use PT100s on my hot ends but discovered that they read within about 1 degree of a thermistor so I've gone back to thermistors because they are smaller and I was having problems with the very thin wires breaking on the PT100ss that I was using. I've also found that with my Diamond hot end, the best print temperature is always about 10 degrees less than the minimum recommended by the filament manufacturers. I suspect this is due to the long melt chamber but for whatever reason, that's what I find best. So there isn't a lot of point in trying to get a highly accurate measurement, because you'll likely find that you end up adjusting the temperature to suit your machine.

That's my twopence worth anyway…..

I just double checked, and can confirm that changing

M574 X1 Y1 S0 ; ```to

M574 X1 Y1 Z1 S0 ;

Edit: Ohhh I figured it out. M558 P4 is set to use the E0 endstop, but I had the probe plugged into the Z endstop.

Thanks everyone. In my mind I'd had it set to 5mm (I must have been thinking cm when I entered it) - was surprised to see 0.5mm in my config, but I still expected it to work (maybe not work WELL) since I didn't see a minimum in the docs.

I don't know anything about your setup but maybe your extruder can't keep up. The product of line width * layer height * print speed must be below the max value that your extruder can hack. As for infill pattern type, I almost always use zigzag which is fast to print and adheres well to the walls.

You get a biscuit today!!

That did the trick! thank you so much… I would have never figured that out.

HooRay!

I recommend PT100 sensors over thermocouples, except where very high temperatures are required. The E3D PT100 sensor (without the amplifier board) and Duet PT100 daughter board are sufficient.

Hi David

I received my new board a week ago and it's working like a charm.

I want to thank Roland from Think3dPrint3d for the great customer service and you, David, for your rapid and efficient help to find and solve my problem.

The duetEthernet is a really good controller and i'm now fully convince to have make the right choice.

Thank you all and have a merry christmas and a happy new year !

Johann

If you haven't already, take a look at this page: https://duet3d.com/wiki/Using_mesh_bed_compensation. My understanding is that the bed.g file is used for G32 leveling, and may have a maximum number of points (though I may be confusing that with Delta calibration).

Mesh bed leveling is G29, and for coordinates it uses the [c]M557 X30:310 Y20:200 S40; Define mesh grid[/c], not bed.g.

You can only use one or the other (unless you have a delta):

On a Cartesian printer, you can use either mesh levelling (G29) or G30/G32 probing, not both. On a Cartesian printer mesh levelling is recommended but bed probing is still supported for backward compatibility with older firmware configurations.

Hope this helps (and hope it's correct - I still get tripped up on it from time-to-time).

It's M307 you need not M305.

Hi,

After some changes, recommend by DC42, the print are much better, not perfect, but quasi…

What changes i have do?

Reduce temperature for ABS, to 215 Reduce extrusion multiplier... i know, i was using a PLA profile.... Reduce M92 E, to M92 E790

And the results, are much better:

Only one thing more, in the internal face, there are "bloops", in the face. Why can they be?

Thanks to DC42, for your help,i know is a off topic theme

And thanks to T3P3Tony, for photo tip…..