OK, thanks very much for your help.

I've made those updates as well, and I'll go back over them again in finer details once I have a first pass of the entire printer working.

At the moment, one additional thing keeps breaking down after I fix something else.

No, you can't get 24V out of a 12V PSU other than by using a boost converter.

Yeah 1.18 is the stable build, i suspect there was something else causing an issue. I would advise a word of caution using a beta firmware as an example for others who are weighing the pros and cons of a Duet

Found the immediate problem. Rookie mistake. I checked the colouring of the BLT ground wire and it changed from black to blue when it went through the Tevo connector to the board, which meant the Z probe wires were switched.

https://plus.google.com/+StephanieS3D/posts/hjjLNnsScaz

@BMMal may I ask where you are located, and what you ended up doing?

And @W3DRK, I sent you a PM, I have read that you sometimes have difficulty receiving messages on this forum, so please check.

Thank you,
Ray

That will only work for a Z probe. It won't work for an endstop switch because the endstop circuit includes an LED and pullup resistor. You need either NPN output sensors, or you could use a small N-channel mosfet or NPN BJT and a few resistors to convert the PNP output to NPN output. (I am assuming you have identified them correctly as PNP, I haven't checked.)

You can use either 2 or 4 wires to connect a PT100. If you use 4 wires then the resistance of the cable and any connectors you have in it won't affect the reading. See https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com/2016/06/25/more-delta-printer-upgrades-wifi-and-silence/.

The modification used on the thermocouple daughter boards should not be applied to the PT100 boards.

@dc42:

Yes, however it's a low priority compared to other features that can't yet be configured in the existing firmware.

That makes perfect sense. I will just have to study the current approach and see if I can wrap my head around it.

Thanks much.

Frederick

@Whitewolf:

Sorry i get that, i mean the purpose of the endstops triggering all motions to stop. Does the core xy endstops remain active after a homing sequence? just trying to understand the need for the difference in behavior.

What the firmware does when a homing switch is triggered during a G1 S1 move is to stop a motor or motors. If you wanted the X homing switch to stop X motion but allow Y motion to continue on a CoreXY machine, you would need to recalculate the move and change the speed and/or direction of both motors when the switch is triggered, instead of just stopping motors. Although this would not be impossible to do, it would be a lot more complicated, for no real advantage.

You can use a voltage converter there are a lot of threads about how to wire one so that you still have pwm control.

@T3P3Tony:

For the op, you can't use the e3d pt100 boards with the Duet. They are 5V not 3.3V and won't interface properly with the thermistor inputs.

Thank you for the answer 🙂

I'm glad you found the mistake. I have corrected the schematic.

@digiex_chris:

nope, my other machines use a 3dator style extruder (fixed tension rather than spring loaded). My first indication that I hit any kind of limit was infill not able to run a complete line across the interior of the part (rectilinear infill).

Then I would suggest that the Titan extruder is the reason why you are not seeing under extrusion manifesting itself in the same way as your other printers. I'm having exactly the same issues with the tests I am doing on my Diamond hot end with Titan extruders. I'm trying to ascertain the maximum melt rate by pushing the print speed higher and higher. I'll be doing a write up on my blog with accompanying videos when I've finished so I don't want to say too much until I've finished all my testing. However, I can say that I am finding that there is no clear black and white distinction as to when I've reached the limit of how fast the filament can be melted. Rather it seems to be a gradual "thinning" of the filament bead as I continue to push the speed up. Eventually, there will be distinct ripples in the surface but I don't get much in the way of "clicking" and no sign at all of any grinding of the filament. These damned Titans just push and push. It's actually quite annoying for what I'm trying to do. 🙂

Mine did it the other day for no apparent reason just one diode had moved and I still don't know how or why
The difference it made on mine was arround 3 mm adjusted it and it was back to normal again

Doug

The line that is confusing the firmware is this one:

G0 Z400 F1800

If you append ";E" or "; E" (without the quotes) to that line, that should avoid the problem.

look at the active thread called dual z axis endstops

Thanks

I finished wiring and testing this morning.
I had an issue yesterday with the DC DC converter as it is an isolated one. No V+12V on V_FAN.
Finally solved it by making a common ground between input and output of the converter.
It is not anymore isolated, but it making is job as a voltage step down device.
Thanks to David for the clue on the common ground.

Now I'm in the configuration process of the Duet. I hope my printer will be live again this evening.