There is a 400 ohm 0.1% reference resistor on the daughter board. You would need to change it to 4000 ohms to use a PT1000.

is there something that we should check if DWC takes a long time to connect? I'm set up board>router>PC once up everything works lightening fast (well a couple of issues not withstanding)

Hmm… I don't think that should have been necessary, assuming that the firmware is not overlapping the CS signals and the SD card sets its DO pin to high impedance when its CS pin is not active. I'll test it here tomorrow.

I was saying a handful of Duet OEMs might benefit from including your kit with their printers if aimed at average users. I agree you have a great offering for the masses and no doubt it will help get 3d printing adopted into more homes especially since what you bring to the table is optimization and ease of use.

Not knocking the product in anyway, I will probably point friends and family your direction to make it easier for them to get into 3d printing oh and less support calls for me 🙂 🙂 🙂

Well I just ran
Room temp bed G32
Bed probe heights: 0.345 -0.136 0.308 0.302 -0.233 -0.201 -0.018 -0.385 -0.098 -0.021 0.223 0.127 -0.085 -0.134 -0.135 -0.095, mean -0.015, deviation from mean 0.208

60C bed G32
Bed probe heights: 0.495 0.039 0.471 0.477 -0.095 -0.076 0.132 -0.260 0.015 0.091 0.335 0.227 0.053 -0.047 -0.035 -0.008, mean 0.113, deviation from mean 0.219

So that doesn't look great. And I just noticed that the X carriage seems to have a lot more friction and resistance to movement than the other two carriages. I didn't notice before I guess because the belt tension was so much higher than the other belts. Now it is quite obvious so…off to figure out why it is significantly worse.

The noise generated by brushless fans is negligible compared to the noise generated by stepper motors.

M106 P1 H-1
M563 P0 D0 H1 F0:1

That'll get two fans PWM'd for print cooling.

Is this it?
https://duet3d.com/wiki/DuetWifi_Pinout_table

so pins 82-85 appear to be available as I am using a panel due, I won't need the LCD connector.

If someone can use the Nextion editor to write some firmware to send the gcode commands then yes it should be possible.

@fcwilt:

@Jackal:

Hi Frederick, I have mistaken the RRF changelog.
The problem lies with DWC instead of RRF
I have uploaded a modified version of DWC on github which should hide heaters with no associated tool
https://github.com/SleepyPrince/DuetWebControl/raw/master/DuetWebControl-1.16.zip

Thanks.

I will give it a try.

Have you made any other changes from the "official" 1.16 version?

Frederick

That's the only change
2 lines of code

I believe you'd want to check out an SSR for such a heat bed (then you don't have to worry about the Duet amp limits):

https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com/2015/06/01/building-a-large-delta-printer/

You could perhaps add a fuse on the heat bed (is 15A the correct fuse for 20% more than 12.5A requirements)?

Also, SeeMeCNC sells thermal fuses (you can get higher rated ones from other sources), you can place those in your heat bed wiring and they will blow if the heat bed gets too hot.

Also, a good crimp on the wiring being placed into the terminal can help - you want as much contact between the wiring and the terminal as possible.

Bootlace Ferrules as referenced here (https://duet3d.com/wiki/Power_wiring) are good for making the wiring clean between the terminal and heat bed power.

What voltage is your silicone heater? Is it AC or DC? If it's DC why not test it, get a multimeter out and test the resistance between the thermistor wire and the ground wire of your heater. If it's reading around 100Kohm at room temperature and the resistance drops if you warm it up in your hand then you have a bizarre shared ground with the heater. Not sure I'd want to use that. So I'd just buy a thermistor from ebay for £1 and sandwich it between the heater and whatever you're attaching the heater to, in the middle of the bed.

Also check the resistance of the positive wire to the thermistor wire you don't what those to be connected.

While you're at it check the resistance of the heater circuit and stick the resistance and your chosen voltage into a calculator to see how many watts and amps it will draw, does that match up with what you ordered?

If the motors are connected in series (as the two Z motor connectors on the Duet are wired) or to separate drivers, they each get that current. If they are connected in parallel, the current is divided.

@knabo:

Do you have more than one power supply? Or are you running your Duet Wifi off USB?

Otherwise I would think shutting off the AT power supply would shut down the entire system.

Please correct me if this is wrong.

ATX power supplies are the ones used in computers, and to keep wifi and ethernet etc. running they have a 5v rail that is on as long as the main switch on the power supply itself is on. You don't usually notice because this standby rail doesn't need the power supply fan to spin, so it will look like it is completely off, but you will notice that the ethernet LEDs stay on (at least with most PCs)…

Same sort of lead time on the PanelDue 5s. We are working with a new supplier for the 7 inch LCDs as we were not happy with the old supplier, those will be significantly longer to get the required changes implemented. Using a tablet is fine using Duet Web Interface.

Thank you very much David, I will make a dry run with some sensors in the probe´s location (without it of course) and will report later! Maybe i can find an alternative location, i´ll test, try and report.

Cheers and thank You!

ahhhhh, thanks a lot !

If you don´t know, v2 doesn´t sound like a predecessor of v1…

Hi Francesco

The Duet Ethernet is not equivalent to the 0.8.5. The key differences are the Ethernet has a more capable processor and the TMC2660 stepper drivers.

A feature list for the Ethernet is available here:
https://duet3d.com/wiki/Duet_Features
Also see the hardware overview:
https://duet3d.com/wiki/Hardware_overview

The 0.8.5 is near the end of its product life.

@CaLviNx:

The LED's along that side all pertain to end stop switch states,

Wiring Diagram available here –-------------> https://duet3d.com/wiki/Duet_WiFi_wiring_diagrams

From the SD card end of the board

LED 1 = E1 Stop
LED 2 = E0 Stop
LED 3 = X Stop
LED 4 = Y Stop
LED 5 = Z Stop

The LED's along the end Starting from the "erase" button then going up are as follows

LED 1 = +3.3v
LED 2 = +5v
LED 3 = VIN
LED 4 = E0 HEAT
LED 5 = E1 HEAT

Found the problem. It's a faulty Y End Stop. It's hardly been used and it's decided to quack.

I've swapped it out with the original Z End Stop I took off for the BLTouch for now.

Thanks for your help, couldn't have done it without you.

The positive fan wires are commoned, and the negative ones are switched as required. So it's the positive fan wires that you can replace by a single wire. No need to split it again at the Duet, the fan current is low so it can all come from just one of the fan connectors.