@dc42 so I moved the printer closer to the access point, it now reports -49dBm and I have no issues with uploading (also just upgraded to 3.4.5, but that happened after the uploading issue was resolved already in 3.4.3 by moving closer to the access point) . However it is in a more office-y area which is not great for noise (was previously in an isolated room).

It appears it has nothing to do with the firmware, however I still find it strange that the WiFi strength at -65dBm (admittedly, not the strongest) caused upload errors. I can down-grade and move it back to the other area as a test if you are still interested in having that tested.

@RandyL00123 in principle it might be possible to do this by monitoring the StallGuard register in the driver. However, back emf detection usually only works well at low motor current (relative to the rated current) and high speed. This is because the component of back emf you are looking for is the one that is in phase with the motor current; but the resistance of the motor windings also causes a voltage drop in phase with the current, and the resistance (and hence voltage drop) is temperature-sensitive. High speed makes the back emf you are looking for higher, and low current makes the voltage drop that you need to ignore lower.

So I think you would need a highly-geared motor to get the motor rpm high enough during normal extrusion, and it would need to be larger and heavier than normal so that it can be run at low current.

@dc42 Have you heard of anyone experimenting on the speed at which the stream will work? Just wondering how many lines need to be buffered at a time. In this scenario, the "printer" is acting as part of a dynamic system and its code / function might need to change depending on sensor going to a higher level controller in the system.

@printnoob of course...

@Phaedrux Okay, thanks

Thanks @dc42. That's what I expected, and is plenty good enough for addressing shrinkage. If I (or anyone else) wants to be more precise, scaling in the slicer would be the way to go.

@3DinoPrint the more money you throw at it , the faster and better it print as well, that my experience with my custom build .

Please send an email to warranty@duet3d.com and CC your reseller. Include a link to this forum thread and the details of your original purchase. You'll receive a reply with a form to fill out.

@Phaedrux
Thanks, I'm on it..

@jay_s_uk I suppose they may be sending M552 s0 or M552 s-1 and causing the WiFi to disconnect?

@thetazzbot I'd try connecting to the Duet via USB and running M122 and M552 to see what is happening with the WiFi. I suppose another possibility is that the BTT display is generating interference that is causing the WiFi to disconnect, but who knows. The USB connection should give you a better idea of what is going on.

@Karim post you config and homing files

Ok
Thanks . I'll fight with these "Chinese" I don't need such an extended expansion board and the more so at my place you can't get Duex2 anymore.
Greetings.

@Lexan said in Replace HS557 with 1HCL:

Is it possible to replace the closed loop HS557 driver with the 1HCL extension board?

Yes, if the main board is a Duet 3 series board (including Duet 3 Mini) and the motor is a 1.8deg (or higher) motor with an encoder pulses per revolution of at least 1000 (transitions per revolution at least 4000).

Which axis or extruder does the driver control?

Does the HS557 driver provide an error output that the Duet could monitor?

Hey there! I'm not sure about Duet being used specifically as a 3D scanner, but have you considered using photogrammetry software?

@moth4017 The 0 is implied if it's left off, so 0.out8 would be correct, but optional.

@alexanderhendrickson Can you please send M122 and M98 P"config.g" in the gcode console and copy paste the results here?

1463dd9d-93b0-4efd-bebd-2cb67d8f3c5b-image.png

How do you have the Low Current Output Voltage selection jumper set for Out7-9?

Are you able to control the fan if you send M106 P1 H-1 S1? That should make it turn on at 100%.

So far not been able to test the last suggested change, found that the black 6 wire connector on the smart effector has a lose connection and it broke off, so i have ordered replacment ones and have to wait to put new one on as it seems like one or two others are just holding on. hope that maybe (dont know how) is part of the problem.

@Ethelred it should be possible to use the E1 heater output to drive a small DC motor, however you will need to connect a flyback diode in parallel with the motor because Duet 2 does not have flyback diodes on the heater outputs. Without the flyback diode, the back emf from the motor will burn the mosfet out. Connecting the flyback diode the wrong way round will also burn the mosfet out.

The heater pins on the expansion header provide 3.3V at low current, so not suitable for driving a motor directly.

@jay_s_uk my bad, I'm lacking knowledge in electronics 😳 The easiest way was just to test with a real fan, which I have done now. Everything works as expected.

@QIDI-Xmax_upgrade just add T0 to the end of your config and you'll be sorted