Topics created by richardmckenna

ok I have got somewhere, connecting as above I could not get it to work.

So I'm now connected:

Fan Red (+) - VFD-5V_EXT
Fan Black (-) - VFD-GND
Fan Blue (PWM) - VFD-out6_buff
Fan Yellow (FOO) - OUT3-out3.tach

and in the config I have:

M950 F1 C"vfd+out3" Q25000

@richardmckenna I will have a look at this, thanks for bringing it to my attention!

@zapta yes, that's pretty much exactly what I was thinking. Spot on thanks!

@schild0r said in Thermostatic controlled fan coming on at 50%:

Turns out that the config tool assigns both the hotend fan and the part cooling fan to the tool ...

It should only do that of you tell it to. If you think it is assigning the hot end fan to the tool without you telling it to, then please post a screen shot of the relevant pages of the config tool, and also the generated config.g file.

@dc42 cool thanks for the clarification.

@Corexy The approach I used was to put insulation under the aluminium plate and bolt the plate to a Vslot frame. Then connect the lead screw mounts and Vslot linear guides to that frame. So the plate might expand but the frame itself remains relatively cool. I used two thicknesses of semi rigid insulation of the type that is used for electric under floor heating giving me 12mm of insulation. The bolts are countersunk in the plate. I made stand off pillars, 12mm tall and fitted them in holes in the insulation. So the only thermal transfer happens through these stand offs and the bolts.
The upside is that you don't have to worry about using kinematic mounts to take care of any thermal expansion - at least it works for me. Also, that sandwich arrangement will hold the silicone heater in place if (when) the adhesive lets go.
The downside is that it takes forever for the bed to cool. That's not an issue for me because I use removable glass print surfaces.

@jay_s_uk said in Replacement Magnets for BuildTak FlexPlate?:

Guys magnets do 10x5x1 with adhesive backs.
They might work

https://www.guysmagnets.com/neodymium-magnets-c11/guys-magnets-10-mm-x-5-mm-x-1-mm-self-adhesive-neodymium-blocks-40-pack-p35432

Also available here https://www.first4magnets.com/rectangular-c35/self-adhesive-10-x-5-x-1mm-thick-n42-neodymium-magnets-0-6kg-pull-p2450#ab_1_1|ps_2_683

as said, part of the hot air side of tool, used to move the IC when heated enough and to press the ic to the pcb while heating it

@T3P3Tony said in Solder on the bottom of the Duet 3:

Its not an issue at all, the wave soldering that is used to solder the through hole components on the bottom of the board also sometime leaves some solder on the vias used to transfer the heat. We may mask them in the future but it does not effect the performance.

A few points on solder in thermal vias:

It’s bad if the vias to suck in solder from the top side. This can cause bad joint to the thermal pad in the bottom, voiding the whole point of the thermal connection. This is the matter of designing the via pattern and solder paste pattern to minimize the possibility. Via size matters.

If the board goes to a wave, it is good if the vias suck in solder from bottom. This much improves the thermal flow.

You don’t want to cover the vias from bottom and leave top side uncovered. This creates pockets of air under the chip, possibly covered with solder paste or melted solder from the top. All kinds of funny effects (up to exploding chips) can result.

You can tent the vias on both sides, but tented vias for thermal pads are tricky.

And folks at Duet3D know all this already. 🙂 I’m just commenting out from my manufacturing experience why it is made the way it is, and why I think it is according good engineering practice, even though it might not always look pretty.

@martin1454 yeah pretty sure that is a different issue as that shows diagonal lines running through the print. With mine if I move the drive cable to simulate movement while printing the PCB flexes and you can see the nozzel moving around.

The gimbal I have at the motor end keeps it well above 10cm. The only place it ever gets anywhere close to that is when the printer is homed

I use printed TPU spacers, no problem with heat whatsoever...

It's certinally better than nothing. I just like being able to verify the function of a safety circuit rather than trust the manufacturer hasn't had a tollerance slip up on the part. That said I blindly trust an electrical fuse when I drop wire guage from one that cam safely take enough current ftom the PSU to trip it into overload protection.

Back to topic the resettable devices are a current concern for me. My planned interlock architecture uses a relay/contactor that latches on with user input and holds on so long as PS_ON remains on, e-stop isn't hit, and any additional in loop thermal switches don't trip. As I'm only breaking relay coil currents the following seems a neat solution with a convenient bolt hole:

https://uk.farnell.com/cantherm/f20b130053600060/thermostat-no-130-deg-c-tht-to/dp/2887261

Best answer would probably be a combination of resetable switches and permanent thermal fuses.

Edit: For reference to the original post this relay system is interlocking one power supply. This same interlocked supply would feed the SSR.

@dc42 ah thanks for the explanation. That makes total sense and is obvious looking at it now.

This is my second diy printer build and my first delta so still getting used to the quirks of deltas and tuning them. My CoreXY was a bit more obvious to configure.

I must say though the Auto Calibration combined with the Smart Effector is just genius and a life saver. Would be interesting to see if the Smart Effector style bed probing could be adapted to Cartesian/CoreXY printers. Maybe a rectangular PCB attached to the carriage.

@richardmckenna yeah there good guys once you order they send you a link to both there own closed Forum and to there Discord Chatroom they usually hang out around there and also the 3Dprinting Discord which can be found at

3Dprinting Discord Chat room

Thanks both, yes I measured the delta radius from the center of the effector which obviously I now realise is wrong. Measuring from ball to ball centers I get a distance of 200mm which now meets the requirements of R+B <= L.

I'm now able to calibrate and I'm pleasantly surprised how accurte my build seems to be. However it has highlighted a problem with my cariage design which pops the ball connection off slightly at the extreams of the bed radius. Reducing my bed radius slightly fixes that temporaraly, so they will be the first thing I re-print with more clearance when I've tuned the heaters.

Very exciting, I've nearly finished my large delta build 🙂