Hi all,

Just thought I would share some photos of my current CoreXY build. It's a modified version of the original V-Core with a Jubilee style 3 point kinematic bed mount.

I've just finished installing and configuring the bed mount, pretty happy with how the true bed levelling is performing so far. Not a spring or knob in sight They aren't the actual Jubilee parts, as I wanted to use the delrin anti backlash blocks rather than the brass ACME nuts and obviously my frame dimensions are different.

Mechanically it's all done and working but still got a few things to do:

• A bit of wire management (endless wire management lol)
• Mount the heater and build surface on the bed plate
• Design a part cooling duct for the Hemera, not really a fan of the ones I've seen on Thingyverse so was thinking of designing a tusk style one. If anyones got any suggestions on this?
• First print and tune

I'm also looking at driving some NeoPixel rings from the Raspberry Pi via DSF. I already have some working prototype code for this just need to get it working with all 48 LEDs. Will share more on this as I progress.

@droftarts if you check "Read config-override.g file at end of startup process" on the "General" tab, it adds the M501 to config.g but does not create an empty config-override.g so until you have manually created it it throws an error. Can't remember the exact error message sorry, but I remember thinking it was a strange message.

I realised there was no config-override.g when I went through the process of creating and uploading a config for the first setup of my Duet3.

@felek https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Duet_3_Mainboard_6HC_Wiring_Diagram#Section_Important_notes first important note.

I got these ones https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B002L6HJ8W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 expensive, but well worth the money if you do a lot of crimping.

I have to say, I love the larger JST VH series connector they are a dream to crimp lol

ok I have got somewhere, connecting as above I could not get it to work.

So I'm now connected:

Fan Red (+) - VFD-5V_EXT
Fan Black (-) - VFD-GND
Fan Blue (PWM) - VFD-out6_buff
Fan Yellow (FOO) - OUT3-out3.tach

and in the config I have:

M950 F1 C"vfd+out3" Q25000

@kingfisher @JamesM it will probably be fine if I strategically place the missing magnets, but yeah I am considering switching to something like this.

I've also found this https://www.ziflex3d.com/ they offer a high temp and low temp version with low temp being slightly cheaper. The high temp is a similar price to the Staymag but also includes a print surface and would get to the UK much quicker

If I can use my steel flex plates from the BuildTak with these then even better.

I know these things aren't design to be removed and reused but I just find it infuriating that I've paid a heft sum for this system and I can't even get 4 small magnets.

@paul12 I was a die hard Simplify3d user on my corexy. Mainly because I wanted my moneys worth. But it was the only slicer that gave me great prints consistently.

Now I’ve built my large delta I’m really struggling to get good prints with Simplify3d. So last night I used Cura for the first time in well over a year and I have to say the print came out spotless. It was probably the best print I have ever had, nothing to clean up, no blobbing or stringing and the sides were just amazing.

Think I’ll be using Cura more often.

Hi all,

I'm building a large delta similar to dc42s large kossel https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com/dc42s-large-kossel-build/

As I'm using a 230V AC heater for the bed I want to make sure I've got the wiring right based on David's photos in the above post.

So if someone wouldn't mind taking a quick look at the diagram below that would be great. Have I missed anything?

Also I'm a bit unsure why one of the -V outputs on the power supply needs to be connected to GND?

Thanks

@Aquilux Sadly Danal passed away a few years ago. https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/16819/danal-s-passing?_=1689795016117

Maybe have a look at the WorkBee config files which can be found here https://learn.ooznest.co.uk/Wiki/WorkBee_Firmware_Releases Not sure if they have what you need, but worth a look.

Hopefully someone else can assist.

@mrehorstdmd I love this forum everyone is always so helpful. I don’t think I’ve ever had a question go unanswered or a problem not resolved. Definitely one of the best 3d printing forums out there.

Ha ha I haven't commented on this thread before but have followed it along the way. Just goes to show while building and setting up 3D printers can be very frustrating at times, if you stick with it and work through problems logically you get there in the end.

I've been a member of this forum for 5 years now, active off and on and it is by far the best community I have found.

For those that are far more knowledgable than I and constantly strive to help others and never giving up, like in this thread, and never getting fed up with constant "noob" questions, I thank you!

On a personal note, I'm immensely grateful to have such a wealth of knowledge at my finger tips and probably would have given up on this hobby long ago.

Oh dear god, I seem to have something in my eye causing it to water I'm going now lol

@Aquilux Sadly Danal passed away a few years ago. https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/16819/danal-s-passing?_=1689795016117

Maybe have a look at the WorkBee config files which can be found here https://learn.ooznest.co.uk/Wiki/WorkBee_Firmware_Releases Not sure if they have what you need, but worth a look.

Hopefully someone else can assist.

ok I have got somewhere, connecting as above I could not get it to work.

So I'm now connected:

Fan Red (+) - VFD-5V_EXT
Fan Black (-) - VFD-GND
Fan Blue (PWM) - VFD-out6_buff
Fan Yellow (FOO) - OUT3-out3.tach

and in the config I have:

M950 F1 C"vfd+out3" Q25000

@dc42 ok not quite working. If I config like:

M950 F1 C"out3" Q25000
M106 P1 C"Fan" S0 H-1

Also tried inverting the pin with, which I think you are supposed to do with 4 wire PWM fans

M950 F1 C"!out3" Q25000
M106 P1 C"Fan" S0 H-1

Calling M106 P1 S1 and M106 P1 S0 doesn't do anything.

If I disconnect the Blue PWN wire the fan operates at 100% as it should (according to it's datasheet) so it's getting power.

@dc42 Perfect thanks

Hi, I have a 4 pin 5V fan I would like to use as a hot end fan on the on 3 Mini. Just want to check how to wire it.

I'm supplying EXT 5V anyway to power LEDs.

If I use OUT 3 to control the fan, can I connect as follows

Fan Black to OUT3 - GND
Fan Yellow to OUT3 - out3.tach
Fan Blue to OUT3 - out3-

Can I just connect Fan Red to 5V PWM - 5V_EXT ?

Thanks

@zapta https://github.com/richard-mckenna/duet_buddy

Will do thanks!

@zapta you can do, happy to continue making little tweaks to it. Next on the list is multiple printers.

@pastthepoint yes just done it, apologies for the delay you can find the pull request here https://github.com/zapta/duet_buddy/pull/1 and the .ino file from the pull request here https://github.com/zapta/duet_buddy/blob/261d93e3068ab4e7ba31b516a9a3a7061c9fcd3a/arduino/arduino.ino

@zapta any issues give me a shout

richard-mckenna opened this pull request in zapta/duet_buddy

closed Re-write for RRF3. #1

@o_lampe for me my printers are upstairs in my office. If I’m downstairs I put the M5Stack somewhere in my line of sight so a quick glance would give me an update on the status of the print. With a phone, I would either have to leave it on with the app running propped up somewhere or have to pick it up, unlock it and switch to the app if it’s not the active app. In this scenario it makes more sense to me to have a small dedicated display.

@zapta yeah I will send a pull request, it uses ArduinoJSON now so it’s just 1 file and very easy to add extra items to parse. My plan next is to have multiple printers in the config file so you can use the buttons to switch between them.

@o_lampe yes that is possible. With regards to hardware the M5Stack is a nice cheap, portable unit with a battery and display, so ideal for a simple monitoring tool, yes you could use a phone but would you want to leave your phone display on all the time? You could in fact use anything with a display and WiFi to do something similar.