Topics created by Lee

@Lee for IS testing purposes, try either higher or lower and see if the peaks move at all.

Update:
I have found, that the steel core of my belts broke, which caused the belts to lengthen substantially over the cause of a print. I have bought genuine gates belts and the problem is gone

@droftarts I will change my wiring according to the new recomendations.
@JAY_S_UK i marked the pins i use
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@Lee Much better.

If you pick EI3 as the shaper just to try it I believe it covers the widest frequency band. So hopefully even if you don't get the frequency exactly right it will still be ok.

Once you get it working make sure to print some actual parts to see if there are issues with corners etc.

@phaedrux Yup that did it Thank you very much

@lee said in Random Heater appears to be over-powered:

I have M307 in the filaments Config.g and i tried to remove it from there this fixed the problem but dose this mean that i cant have different PID setting for different filaments/temps.

That explains it.

And no you don't have to remove it. It's just a warning.

So the other thing to consider that's often overlooked is what nozzle you're using. If you're using a steel/hardened/nozzle-x or similar, you will measurably compromise the energy transfer to your filament. If this is the case, it's entirely reasonable to need a temperature 10degrees or more than what's quoted for your filament.
I use an Olsson Ruby nozzle which is another special case. The body of the nozzle is made of two parts, so despite it being a brass nozzle I print pretty much all PLA at 210/215 degrees and can't achieve higher volumetric flow rates without a lot of fine tuning.