Problems with input shaping
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@Lee you probably need more than just 1 screw
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@jay_s_uk ok than i will design a new holder
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@Lee Looking at the test print you did I'm not actually seeing much ringing on it at all (you may be able to see more than we can in a photo). If you can see ringing on the print I'd ignore the accelerometer and just use the manual way of estimating the frequency by measuring the peaks of the ringing, see: https://www.klipper3d.org/Resonance_Compensation.html
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@gloomyandy I think manually turning it may be my best option becasue i dont think it a mounting issue
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@gloomyandy I am now confused as heck. I have tried the manual tuning around 15 times and none of my test were consistent, and the last one was the one that confused me the most. I had both input shaping and pressure advanced off. And it had next to no ringing. But the test before that with the exact same settings and gcode had a hell of a lot of ringing. WTF is going on?
And the frequencies I calculated are all around 34 Hz and from what I heard here that seems to low
I am running a direct drive extruder, which makes the tool head heavier but dose more weight lead to lower frequency?
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@Lee Being confused is a part of 3D printing in my experience.
34 Hz is not too low.
The extruder on my Ender 5+ (heavily modified, I call it Printenstein) is heavy. It is an original Hermes (Hemera) direct drive extruder with Volcano block and two 2015 fans. I made a custom backing plate to mount it to the Creality carriage.
It gets roughly the same frequencies as my Ender 5 Pro (heavily modified also) which has a relatively light weight E3D V6 with LGX lite direct drive extruder.
If you are not getting consistent results maybe go over everything and check for loose bolts. Sorry I can't be of more help.
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@tas I will check all the bolts again and tighten my belts up even more again and try to run something other than the ringing test, but thanks for your help anyway.
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@Lee No Problem. I find it helpful to disconnect the motors and move all axes to look for stiff spots/bad bearings. That can be very difficult to detect with motors still connected.
Good luck.
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@tas Thanks for the tip, I will definitely try that. I just finished running a test which looks promising. What I ended up doing was taking an average of the frequencies I calculated and used that as my shaper frequency and I think it looks good.
This was Printed at 100 mm/s.
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@Lee Much better.
If you pick EI3 as the shaper just to try it I believe it covers the widest frequency band. So hopefully even if you don't get the frequency exactly right it will still be ok.
Once you get it working make sure to print some actual parts to see if there are issues with corners etc.
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