Corner LEDs not working
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I'm having a similar problem. have traced it down to the r8 and r9 resistors what are the specs on those?
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if I am reading the schematic right is R9 a 604 ohm .33 watt and R8 a 140 ohm .33 watt? And if so is there any leeway say using a 600 ohm 1/2 watt for R9?
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The values of those resistors are not critical. But they are unlikely to have failed, unless you ran it with 24V power when you had the 12V jumper installed - in which case R8 would be charred.
Make sure that you have the + and - hot end fan wires from the Duet to the effector the right way round.
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I know that it is the resistor R9 that is why I am asking. And no I did not connect to 24v I have a totally 12v system. I just need to know what resistor to use to replace R9.
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R9 doesn't matter on a 12V system because it it bypassed by the 12V jumper. Have you fitted that jumper?
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yes. They were working fine. It is to be honest my fault, instead of changing connectors on my fans every time i change them I decided to change the connectors on my effector and while soldering them on I think I overheated the resistors. And then while testing for voltage like you describe above (checking from hot end fan - to leds for voltage the leds would light up and I would read voltage.
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by the way this incident also finally induced me to buy a rework station with temp control and retiring my old radio shack dual wattage soldering iron.
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Hi I think I have probably broken my LEDs as I changed from a 12v hotend heater to a 24v one and did not remove the jumper, they did work for quite a while then stopped working.
If R8 is the problem, I will attempt to fix it, what resistor should I use?
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R8 is 140R 0.33W. The schematic is at https://github.com/T3P3/SmartEffector/blob/master/SmartEffector/SmartEffector_v1.3/SmartEffector_Schematic_v1.3.pdf.
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Thanks David.
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Okay so, I ordered a new Smarteffector PCB and swapped it out.
Rebuilt it with the new PCB (LED jumper OFF this time - 24v) and it works fine.
But on taking a look at the old one, the R8 resistor looks a little toasty but still reads 140Kohm.
Maybe it's just not very well soldered?
NB it's worth stating that I am running my smart effector 3 corner LEDs by connecting the hotend fan connector on the smart effector to the heater in parallel as I now have watercooling and the hotend fan isn't wired up anymore, I needed the two cores in my wiring loom for a thermistor for the heatsink. The PWM to the LEDs shouldn't be a problem should it?
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PWM to the LEDs is OK. As you were previously running the LEDs well above their normal current, perhaps one of them has blown? Let me know if you need a replacement.
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Thanks David, I bought another piezo effector pcb, it was my fault they blew, I should have taken the jumper off. I can replace or possibly just resolder the resistor and press the broken one into service elsewhere. I'll check the leds. Hope you had a nice Christmas.
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Thanks David, I bought another piezo effector pcb, it was my fault they blew, I should have taken the jumper off. I can replace or possibly just resolder the resistor and press the broken one into service elsewhere. I'll check the leds. Hope you had a nice Christmas.
I meant a replacement LED so that you can mend the old one.
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Okay thanks will let you know.
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The 3 white corner led on / off is possible , or light ever time when printing ?
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The corner LEDs should illuminate when the hot end fan is powered, if you have the wiring polarity correct.
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Ok thanks for response DC42,
It is boring to always see the LEDs ON, especially at night with long prints. There is no possibility to switch them on / off with a command. Thanks again
