Ringing on prints
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@RAM said in Ringing on prints:
But on another print I did that was bigger the banding is a lot more pronounced like it is increasing with the size of whatever is printed.
An overheated print, like a small single wall part, printed without part-fan would sink in. But in your case it is the opposite.
Still the PID tuning of the hotend is in question.
After the tuning, did you store the new hotend-parameters with M500 and also read them with M501 in config.g?
Can you look at the hotend temp while printing and tell us what the biggest temperature swing is? (A screenshot of DWC will work too) -
Could it be, that the Bed runs in BANG-BANG-Mode instead of PWM?
If yes, i recommend changing that by using a SSR./Julien
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@o_lampe said in Ringing on prints:
@RAM said in Ringing on prints:
But on another print I did that was bigger the banding is a lot more pronounced like it is increasing with the size of whatever is printed.
An overheated print, like a small single wall part, printed without part-fan would sink in. But in your case it is the opposite.
Still the PID tuning of the hotend is in question.
After the tuning, did you store the new hotend-parameters with M500 and also read them with M501 in config.g?
Can you look at the hotend temp while printing and tell us what the biggest temperature swing is? (A screenshot of DWC will work too)Yep definitely used the M500 after doing the PID tune. I will run another print and do a screenshot of the DWC.
I don't have a SSR on the heated bed as to be honest I wasn't sure how to set one up or wire it in. So I would assume that it is running in Bang Bang mode if running it in PWM requires it to have a SSR
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@RAM said in Ringing on prints:
So I would assume that it is running in Bang Bang mode if running it in PWM requires it to have a SSR
No, if you have gone through a PID tuning and saved the values, it will be running in PID/PWM mode. With or without an SSR.
What kind of heated bed is it? Normally an SSR is used if the bed heater is AC powered. The relay lets you control the flow of power to the bed on the AC side by sending a control signal on the DC side from the control board. This would be a AC-DC SSR. But there are also DC-DC SSR, which could be used to control a separate DC power supply that is solely used for the bed. That way a high current doesn't have to flow through the Duet itself. It just sends the control signal.
Bang-bang means it's turned on full power until it reaches temp and then turns on and off to try and keep that temp. This is why it can lead to some Z banding artifacts because the control isn't very smooth. PWM control with a PID algorithm allows for much finer control and smoother temps.
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While printing, are the hot end and bed temperatures flat in the temperature graph displayed by DWC, or are there is oscillations?
Duet WiFi hardware designer and firmware engineer
Please do not ask me for Duet support via PM or email, use the forum
http://www.escher3d.com, https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com -
print 2 cylinders (like you did in your images) while one is twice in diameter .
compare the pitch distance on both cylinders .
if its the same - you have problem with your leadscrews , probably one of them bent .if the pitch is different for the larger cylinder then you have temp / extruder issue .
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@Phaedrux @dc42 said in Ringing on prints:
While printing, are the hot end and bed temperatures flat in the temperature graph displayed by DWC, or are there is oscillations?
My heated bed is a 24v version that runs directly from the Duet 2 wifi board and when looking at the DWC as it is heating up on the graph it climbs up to the commanded temperature has a very slight deviation at the end where it overshoots by a few degrees then levels out nice and flat and both the hotend and bed stay flat whilst printing.
I will do 2 cylinders to see what is happening as suggested later.
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This is how they look and to me they look exactly the same.
The small cylinder is 20mm which when measured using digital calipers measured 19.85 - 19.77 when being rotated and the 40mm cylinder measured 39.59 - 39.66 so they are very similar in measured dimensions with the variations. I have done all the axis calibration and the extruder calibration before this started to happen. But does this mean I need to redo the calibrations again ? Or could this be something else that is throwing the prints out ?
One thing I did notice when I was running this print is that it does seem to pause at the end of each layer for a moment unlike my Sidewinder X1 which is almost completely seamless with movements as it is printing.
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i think your slicing settings are way off .
what slicer are you using ? -
@hackinistrator said in Ringing on prints:
i think your slicing settings are way off .
what slicer are you using ?Simplify3D.
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I remember having similar quality issues on my hevo back in the day.
I can't remember what exactly fixed the problem, but first thing I did was to check my belt tension and replaced my belts (I used those white reinforced belts, which was a big nono).Then I made sure they were tight, but not so tight you can't really push them out and more importantly - they have to be equal length (down to the tooth) and equal tension.
Then I made sure prints were square (using a calibration slat) and finally, I made sure the extruder was calibrated and also the filament itself (things like extrusion multiplier, pressure advance, destring).
And then, the printer started printing amazingly well
Maybe one of these hints will help you if you haven't done them yet.
Just in case, here are the tools I used:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3306430
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3993559 -
@RAM
Can you share your factory file please -
@hackinistrator here is the S3D printer profile I have.
S3D Hypercube Profile@pkos thanks for the suggestions. I cant work out what it is. I have checked the belt tensions and I am not using them reinforced white belts with metal strands as I had read that they give problems.
I have even gone back over the mounting points to make sure that nothing had come loose and that the idler pulleys were all freely spinning to the point I even printed new idler pulley mounts and changed them over.
only thing I haven't done yet on the calibration things that you mentioned is the pressure advance tuning and the calibration slat.
I will try the calibration Slat but I am still trying to get my head around the pressure advance tuning thing before I even attempt it.
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Right, then first make sure you do the slat - that makes sure you are printing square.
Then, do extruder calibration, extrusion calibration and only once you have that - then attempt PA
If you have a direct drive, PA won't help much. -
I slightly changed your profile , can you test it ?
(rename file to .fff instead of txt)
please print the cylinders one at a time , not both at the same time .for some reason your speed is set very slow at 20mm/s , why ?
i changed it to 45mm/s and reduced acceleration , if you have some kind of issues . if its a problem set speed back to 20mm/s
other changes should not effect your printer . the profile seems very old. -
@hackinistrator Oh damn it exported the TPU testing profile I was setting up and not the PLA. Sorry that was my fault I didn't realise it had done that.
If you would prefer to look at how the PLA profile is for the printer it is here.
what makes you say the profile is old ?
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are you using the latest s3d version ? (they didnt update in years and probably dead , but still your profile config looks like it was created before the latest version)
if you have time try my profile for single cylinder .
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@hackinistrator yep I am using v4.1.2 which is the latest. I am more than happy to try a different slicer even though I am not familiar with other slicers. I did used to use Cura years ago when I 1st got my Hictop in clone but ended switching over to Simplify3D as I found I was getting better prints using it.
I am doing the 20mm cylinder now and I will do the 40mm after to see what the difference is. So far it is looking really good. Haven't a clue what you changed but it seems to be doing the trick so far. Fingers crossed and it will have solved the issue.
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@hackinistrator whatever you changed seems to have worked wonders. I will delete the other profile and run with what you have done for me.
Only thing that I would like to do is try and minimise the seam line a bit more but if that is all I have to contend with I will gladly put up with that.
If you have any other suggestions to improve it further I would be very grateful.
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Give Prusaslicer a go. I’ve moved to it from Cura and I’m impressed with it
