@norder Good Idea, I'll double check that this weekend, it's the same for each tower, there's a flat on the motor shafts and I have 2 screws on the pulleys, so it's probably not loose. Admittedly not the same as definitely not lose, and I've gone down rabbit holes overlooking simpler things than that.

@dizzwold said in NPN Inductive Z Probe:

I appreciate you have different z probes

If you will, there are 4 pieces. 😄 (fun)
Two self-made Z-endstops with HAL-Sensors that react to a magnet that I can adjust steplessly.
The magnets move with the X-axis and the HAL-Sensors are firmly mounted at the bottom of the boom.
This way I can level the X-axis and don't have to loosen and move the whole endstop. With the adjustable magnets, this is more convenient and precise.

Then the right probes, the IR-Probe which I use for the most part and the BLTouch is for printing surfaces that are rough or permeable to IR light (glass, PC and PEI).
G29 makes an MBL with the IR-Probe.
G32 makes an MBL with the BLTouch, so my bed.g is misused.

Four different printers are then set up in the slicer, although I only have this one printer.
One to start printing with the BLTouch and the other starts with the IR-Probe which brings the MBL to the right height just before printing.
The whole then for 0.4mm nozzle and for a 0.2mm nozzle.

The worst thing about two probes is comparing them to each other. You must probe the exact same point where the z-offset of the two probes was queried.
It took days to get it right, because the different repeatability of the two probes sometimes makes you despair.
But now it works great and every first layer of 0.1mm is printed perfectly.
Baby steps are not often necessary.

If it wasn't a hobby and I only needed the printer for work, I wouldn't have done these things to myself. 😄

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-- Original Text --

Wenn man so will sind es 4 Stück. 😄
Zwei selbst gebaute Z-Endstops mit HAL-Sensoren die auf einen Magneten reagieren die ich stufenlos einstellen kann.
Die Magnete fahren mit der X-Achse mit und die HAL-Sensoren sind unten am Galgen fest montiert.
So kann ich die X-Achse nivellieren und muss dazu nicht den ganzen Endstop lösen und verschieben. Mit den einstellbaren Magneten geht das konfortabler und genauer.

Dann die richtigen Probes, einmal den IR-Probe den ich zum größten Teil nutze und den BLTouch ist für Druckoberflächen die rau oder durchlässig für das IR Licht sind (Glas, PC und PEI).
G29 macht ein MBL mit dem IR-Probe.
G32 macht ein MBL mit dem BLTouch, daher ist meine bed.g zweckentfremdet.

Im Slicer sind dann vier verschiedene Drucker eingerichtet, obwohl ich nur diesen einen Drucker besitze.
Einmal um den Druck mit dem BLTouch zu starten und der andere startet mit dem IR-Probe der kurz vor dem Drucken das MBL auf die richtige Höhe bringt.
Das ganze dann für 0,4mm Düse und für eine 0,2mm Düse.

Das schlimmste an zwei Probes ist, diese aufeinander abzugleichen. Sie müssen exakt den gleichen Punkt sondieren wo auch das Z-Offset der beiden Probes abgefragt wurde.
Es hat Tage gedauert bis es stimmte, denn die unterschiedliche Wiederholgenauigkeit beider Probes lässt einem manches mal verzweifeln.
Aber jetzt funktioniert es super und jeder erste Layer von 0,1mm wird ideal gedruckt.
Babystepps sind nicht oft nötig.

Wenn es nicht ein Hobby wäre sondern ich den Drucker nur zur Arbeit bräuchte, hätte ich mir diese sachen nicht angetan. 😄

@Ghazi I've tested alot lot now.

The errors I had were from random angles and trying to move there. This is not possible always, as source and targets are in different work modes. When I don't try to change work modes, it works as expected.

(explanation work modes, for users who do not know it: every position and orientation on a 6 axis robot can be reached by different robot arm positions, up to about 8 possibilities. They can be only crossed by explicit robot angle changes).

I'll proceed with creating the firmware now. I currently can work at weekends, so my goal is to finish it next weekend.

When building the CoreXY 5 axis, please be aware that the A axis has a critical angle of 0 degrees where a singularity can happen, because the C axis can be parallel to the Z axis. This should be avoided, e.g. by staying in the positive or negative A angle. Mechanical construction so that A can stay in negative or positive, I mean maximizing this range, would IMHO be the best solution. If think, if the goal of the 5 axis is to print overhangs, the maximum tilting needed would be a parameter.

The singularity can be crossed by setting C axis rotation to 0 (the firmware can do this), but the result is a movement which is not correct. I'll probably add a new flag in configuration to turn on or off the possibility to run in singularity or not. If not, outputting an error message to the console and stop printing. (to allow finding this in simulation mode)

@mikeabuilder To check if it is the belt causing the sound you can damping the belt with your hand...

@rogerpodacter

I’m determining the limits

… or, as I would say: you risk your Duet. The hotter a chip, the faster it fails. Do you really want to determine the limits of the board?

I upgraded all my motor wiring to 22 gauge. I was hopeful, but it didnt help much with the heat on the drivers.

It can’t. That just helps you to pump more amps through the steppers and to dissipate less heat by the wires. The drivers still try to provide 2 amps if you tell them to do so in your config. As @dc42 told you several times in this thread: apply active cooling!

After you’ve done that, check the temperatures of your steppers. As long as these don’t exceed 60°C, you’re safe.

@jay_s_uk
That's cool ( or hot?), but it would be even better to do this automatically and have an easy way to switch it back to "normal". By drop down menu in DWC or a macro perhaps?
Wondering, if the parameters are part of the object model?
Anyway, thanks for pointing it out!

@phaedrux before I had made this type of setting because the two EXTRUDER are THE WIRES ARE CONNECTED E0 = DRIVER 3 and E1 = DRIVER 4 M584 X7 Y8 Z1:2 A5 B6 E0:1 S0 and the engines don't turn, they don't work to make it work I had to change the configuration leaving the wires connected E0 = DRIVER 3 and E1 = DRIVER 4 with this type of command M584 X7 Y8 Z1:2 A5 B6 E3:4 S0
and now they work well but I can't understand why they work these have come out that they are on the expansion card DUEX 0.11 CONFIGURED IN DUEX 2
E3 = DRIVER 6 AND AXIS B WORKS CONNECTED
E4 = DRIVER 7 IS DISABLED FOR EXTERNAL AXIS X
E5 = DRIVER 8 AND DISABLED FOR EXTERNAL AXIS Y
E6 = DRIVER 9 IS DISABLED NOT CONNECTED NO AXIS IS FREE
So how does it work and also works well?

then another question the cooling fins on the drivers I no longer have them installed Also because there are two 120mm fans if you remember I had problems with temperature error since I installed two 120mm fans I have not had any more problems
WHAT DO YOU THINK ABOUT IT?
Speaking of problems I have a problem with F7 no longer working the fan works I tested it on F8 and it works well but output 7 no longer works as never what advice can you give me?config (40).g

@phaedrux
Hello, thank you very much for your help. Soldering the 1K resistor directly in front of the sensor board helped. I have a stable signal. Tested several times, flawless. I also think that the connected shielding also helps.

Thank you again. 🙂

@dog said in Flsun Q5 delta printer, poor dimensional accuracy:

Decided to go with altering the rod lengths, because that seemed to work and I kinda understood how it affects the print when it comes to dimensions. (measured length / desired length * rod length = new rod length ish) basically if the print is too small, shorten the rod, if too big, lengthen it.

I've used a piece of carbon paper over a piece of paper and did a heated nozzle tap (takes less force to mark) to do basically the same thing. It can speed up the process without doing a full print and having to account for anything other than just movement simply measuring from the outside of one dot to the inside of the other.

@rivianadventurer In addition to what @Phaedrux has said, did you happen to have a part cooling fan running when the temperature dropped? If so, a silicone sock might help or some re-arrangement of the part cooling air stream to prevent cold air being blown over the nozzle block.

@wwak84, thanks. The spool is just about done so I am not too worried. I just wanted to understand what was happening and why. Also, I actually like the rougher finish as it hides layer lines.
I have been into 3D printing for a few years now and this is the first instance where drying made any substantial difference. I think there were other occasions where drying reduced stringing a bit but it was never a drastic difference as in this case.
I will see what a fresh roll of filament will get me.

@dc42
@rogerpodacter

I see theres confusion about the examples, as i mentioned this just examples (picked from the duet doku)
I can now share acutal accelerometer records.
Printer Type: CoreXY

Record no shaping:
IS_1.png

Based on what i learned here MZV should suits best in relation to curves
IS_2.png
No Shape with MZV curve:
IS_3.png
Shaped with MZV
IS_4.png
it looks for me pretty well shaped, except a bit the area arround 58Hz-78Hz
So my question that is now remain after i understand most of the whole thing (i guess so, if not correct me in my statements)
Is there any tweaking point on this?

After experimenting a bit i tried modified ZVDDD, if im right this one is lacking because it have a longer frequenzy and give me
almost the same result as MZV?
IS_5.png

excuse me again for not beeing clearly enough that i used examples

Edit: Is the MZV Shaper is automatically right on 40Hz, because its the highest peak and the first curve of the shaper, shapes this peak best?

@bernardomattiucci
The heating isn't on all the time. There is an LED on the Duet Board that indicates when the bed heater is heating up.

Another possibility to turn off the bed heating completely after the first layers is to choose the right filament and increase the print bed adhesion.

I always level my print bed very meticulously and clean it thoroughly before each print, I always print the first layer with 0.1mm (100% flow) instead of 0.2mm as most people do.
When the skirt is printed, I use pointed tweezers to test how well the print holds on the print bed (FR4 Blackprint from Printbay), I guess I then set the layer height to less than 0.1mm with the help of the baby steps.
I print mostly ABS-X from Minadax and Titan-X from FormFutura, and the prints hold very strongly (almost too strongly) on the print bed even after cooling to room temperature, so I turn the temperature down heavily after the first 5 layers (by hand) .
Only for large prints do I not go below 50°C... out of panic. 😄

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-- Original Text --

Die Heizung ist ja nicht ständig an. Auf dem Duet Board ist eine LED die anzeigt wann die Bett-Heizung in der Aufheizphase ist.

Eine weitere Möglichkeit die Bett-Heizung nach den ersten Layern komplett auszustellen ist die Wahl des richtigen Filaments und die Erhöhung der Druckbetthaftung.

Ich level mein Druckbett immer sehr penibel und reinige es gründlich vor jedem Druck, dazu drucke ich den ersten Layer immer mit 0,1mm (100% Flow) anstatt 0,2mm wie die meisten es machen.
Wenn der Skirt gedruckt wird teste ich mit einer spitzen Pinzette wie gut der Druck auf dem Druckbett (FR4 Blackprint von Printbay) hält, ich vermute ich stelle dann die Layerhöhe auf unter 0,1mm mit hilfe der Babystepps ein.
Ich drucke zum größten Teil ABS-X von Minadax und Titan-X von FormFutura, und die Drucke halten selbst nach dem abkühlen auf Zimmertemperatur sehr stark (fast zu stark) auf dem Druckbett, daher regle ich die Temperatur nach den ersten 5 Layern stark herunter (per Hand).
Nur bei großen Drucken gehe ich nicht unter 50°C... aus Panik. 😄

@dc42 I dont think its actually skipping steps though. I really cant pinpoint the noise if its the hob gears or in the housing...
The tension arm never moves and the visible bearing doesnt bounce. And im also not seeing any hiccups in the print.

I went through teaching techs calibration site twice getting it dialed in and my e steps are spot on. I still had to dial the flow back to 72% in my slicer. But It could just be the rapidos long melt zone and having to print PETG slower than pla. So im not sure if thats some underlying issue or anything but everything is printing very well...

Maybe im just being paranoid about burning it out. Ive been monitoring it with a FLIR thermal camera and i havent seen it get above 92c ... generally hangs out around 85- 86c.

@o_lampe you want M500 P10 to save the tool offsets.
at least with my toolchanger that i used to run (and its the same with the E3D toolchanger) all the tools were relative to the z probe. So the z probe had no offsets and each tool was offset from that using G10

@rowow you can set a fixed IP address in the M587 command that you use to tell RRF the SSID and password of a network that you want to connect to.

When tuning it as a tool (T0) it tries to use the part cooling fan so that it can predict how much heat loss there would be and compensate. Perhaps your cooling fan has an unusual impact on the cooling.

Hard to say without seeing the temp graph and the exact error message.

But if it's working well after tuning as a heater (H1) then that's fine, no reason to go further.

may have found an issue. One of the Y axis brackets is broken. The left rear bracket was damaged when it was moved i guess. Well time to get someone else around here to print a replacement for me.

I'm not sure what your gcode looks like, but the settings for firmware retraction will be applied by whatever M207 command was sent last. So if you have values during a print that you aren't expecting, there must be an errant M207 command somewhere. So review your config.g, slicer start gcode, etc to see what is where.

You can send M207 by itself at anytime in the console to get the current settings reported to you.

@thetazzbot said in During PID tuning is it supposed to turn on part fan (fan 0)?:

M308 S1 P"e0temp" Y"thermistor" T100000 B4766 C1.183652e-7

i think this is wrong unless you have a better source for that.
Using the config tool and a trying to keep it simple by using a pair of temps (25 and 240) I get T100000 B4219 I think adding 3 readings can confuse things somewhat.