@pm7399 You have a total of 4 posts on here none of which are in a thread started by you.
You can't expect help if you don't ask for it, in the correct polite way. Myself and others are more than happy to spend our own free time to help but show some respect.
Firstly, what board do you have? What printer? Give us details of the actual problem.
J.
@shiga I'd imagine people will only tell you where to buy a genuine Duet product and without knowing where you are located that's not going to be possible.
The duet website lists the official resellers. https://www.duet3d.com/page/genuine-resellers
Hi all,
So I thought as I'm now a Duet3D convert I should post my new printer build. First this to say it's still very much a work in progress, it's going to be an iDEX printer but currently only has one tool carriage installed, while I get to grips with the firmware side of things. This is my first Duet3D board so it's be a learning experience but once I got my head around it, it's going well.
So spec are currently,
Duet 3 0.6 with 3.1.1 firmware with a raspberry pi 3B attached.
300mm on X, 270mm on Y and 300mm on Z.
It has a Prusa MK3 extruder on a magnetic carriage system, allowing for quick hotend swaps.
E3D V6 hotends 24v.
700W Keenovo 240V AC bed attached to a 5mm Aluminium Tooling Plate.
Bed leveling is via a PINDA v1 from my old MK2.
So when I say it's a D-Bot/CrusaXY mash up that basically means I used my 300mm D-Bot (Link) for parts to make the printer designed by Hunter Bernstein on thingiverse (Link). The parts I printed are version 1 and they have been updated but I'm going to use this for now. The idea behind Hunter's design is to use a Creality3D CR-10 S5 and convert it to an iDEX printer, I didn't have a CR-10 so when the D-Bot conversion route.
So on to some pictures, I will be updating this thread as I add the extra tool etc but for now this is what it looks like.
So as you can see I'm using a quick disconnect extruder board, these are connected with a 26pin ribbon cable and so far works great, I remixed some things of thingiverse to make a bracket that holds the cable and I used some flat 9.5x0.3mm spring steel to support the cable (Like the E3D tool changer)
Well that's about it for now, I'll post updates soon.
Thanks,
James.
@markz the other pins aren't soldered in by default now.
First few prints off the printer.
@deckingman they are heat press inserts, used a lot by the Voron community. You use a soldering iron to push them in, some have even created jigs to hold the iron, you can also get new tips to better hold the insert.
Hi,
First you have two M584 commands in you're config.g.
M584 X0 Y1 Z2 E3
M584 X0 Y1 Z2:4 E
You also have (,) in you're M92 command.
M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z634,5 E387,37.00
These need to be (.).
E3D thermistors are configured like this, T100000 B4725 C7.06e-8
@silverpoint Simply plugging something into it doesn't "use" it, they are topically used for heaters. So you'd need to use gcode to switch it on.
I would power the tool board directly from the PSU. Because you want 6HC and toolbars to power at the same time.
@silverpoint Can you post your config as text and not a link please.
Also those outputs are switched so they wouldn't have voltage unless you are trying to use them.
@jjude What happens if you click the Home All button?
@skezo Depending on the size of the linear rail you could look at a Voron toolhead.
@rmilyard So none of the T1 and T3 fans work? Not even hotend fan.
@Borgtribble Change the S value of the M569 command for the extruder. (S0 or S1)
Can you plug a working tools part cooling fan into the port of a non working fan on the control board side. This would see if the mosfet on the control boards are an issue.
There is a 3rd party PrusaSlicer post processor for this if your interested?
Probably worth mentioning all the steps taken from the discussion from the E3D discord.
Such as, replacing fans and that the fans do work on the other tools, but as far as I'm aware you were testing if a metal washer between the fan and motor fixes the issue as experienced by other users. Or simply moving the fan 6-8" away from the Hemera and testing again.
@Herve_Smith personally I have had nothing but positive communication with him via Instagram but than I'm not so arrogant to question someone's project.
I've only made a few project type YouTube videos and the amount of people who think they can tell you how to do things is annoying.
The amount of planning and costs that must go into a project like this I'm sure he just wanted to follow his own plans.