I found a second M667 that was the culprit. Thanks, I'm getting up to speed.

@AdiGital:

The reason I was so happy about introducing support for separate Z motors was the fact, that my bed is quite heavy. After switching off the motors or the printer, I never knew if when the bed was sliding down (by its own weight and gravity) one of the sides would go further than the other - resulting in tilted bed. To overcome that, before each print I would have to slide the bed down to the point where both sides would bang on the axis ends. Only then I would home Z to min and start printing (knowing that both screws were at the matching level).

Now, I don’t know how it relates lost steps. What I do know is that using the G32 (as described in the documentation) gives the assurance that both sides of the Z drives are at the same level (after every time you run G32). The feature works by measuring the bed distance to the Z probe close to the mounting points of the multiple Z axis drives (leadscrews). If there are differences (tilt), the firmware compensates them by driving one of the motors so the distances are matching - to null out the differences.

So as I described above, having two Z drives (connected to separate drivers on Duet) I’m using the G32 before each print. After the G32 is executed and both sides of the bed leveled, the height map is loaded to compensate any bumps on the bed during print.

@dc42:

Yes, if your two Z motors are connected to separate drivers.

Evening Guys.

Brilliant, thanks for your replies.

I see, currently I'm using the Z motors series connectors on the Duet, however with the explanations in this post I can see the benefits to re-applying G32.

While I wouldn't say my Z is overly heavy perhaps, although it could be (Hypercube Evo using 2020 profiles for the bed) it sounds like a good idea to be able to automatically syncronise the two sides of the bed. I've had a couple of instances where the BLTouch doesn't stop the Z axis during homing, not sure what the link is yet to this but it seems to follow a print cancel more than anything else or leaving the printer a while following cancelling a print. It's at these times I wodner if one lead screw has been held out of sync to the other.

Maybe a future setup change I think.

Thanks.

Ian

I have just checked configtool and it isn't correct when you select microstepping other than x16. It calculates the steps/mm assuming x16 microstepping, but it puts the M92 command after the M350 command. I'll get this fixed. Meanwhile, if you use configtool to generate the files, you should move the M350 command(s) to be after the M92 commands.

Done.

Check that you don't have another G31 command in bed.g that sets the probe offset to zero. This was required with some old firmware versions, but isn't any more.

I was similarily confused when setting up my CoreXY. Did you read the documentation here https://duet3d.com/wiki/Configuring_RepRapFirmware_for_a_CoreXY_printer, espacially the part after the M569 commands and the testing? That helped me getting it right in the end.
Also there was a change in 1.19 that requires to either swap the X and Y motors or change the directions parameters in the M569 commands for the motors.
I hope I could help…

You may be looking for [c]M302 P1[/c], which allows cold extrusion.

k working thank you

; General preferences
M111 S0 ; Debugging off
G21 ; Work in millimetres
G90 ; Send absolute coordinates…
M83 ; ...but relative extruder moves
M555 P1 ; Set firmware compatibility to look like RepRapFirmare
M208 X0 Y0 Z0 S1 ; Set axis minima
M208 X200 Y200 Z200 S0 ; Set axis maxima

@dc42:

The directions don't say you need to measure the trigger height at all the points you want to probe, they suggest you measure it at various places to check that it is consistent. Mesh bed compensation assumes the same trigger height at all probe points, so it won't give accurate results if the trigger height varies a !ot.

Ok, I'm still confused then. If I have G31 set and the Z probe height homed as per the directions, why is the G29 not responding to the probe firing off? Am I missing some other setting/config?

Thanks!

It might also be worth increasing the tower stepper motor currents if they are currently running well below their rated current.

Glad you got it working. You don't need the TBCR parameters in the M305 P1 command because they are only relevant when the sensor is a thermistor. But they won't do any harm either.

Made new config. And it seems working good now. Thanks who helped 🙂

Homing speed should be defined within your homeall.g/homez.g/etc. Other probing speed parameters are set with M558
https://duet3d.com/wiki/G-code#M558:_Set_Z_probe_type

Could do with some more info but if your tools have individual heaters, then that's generally caused by having to wait for each tool to heat from it's standby to it's active temperature. If that's the case, you can make it instant by setting the active and standby temperatures to the same values for all tools. The downside of course is that you may get some ooze from tools which are not in use.

M501 in config, I'm changing the G31 in the override.
or I do the G31 in console and then M500.
and then I check with G31 T1

I've just edited my previous post, I guess I'll end-up adding the baby steps with M290 in my config until someone comes up with a way to help me diagnostic/solve this issue.

The probe offset given in G31, and the tool offsets given in G10, and the axis limits in M208 are relative to the print head reference point (HRP). You can choose the HRP to be wherever you like. On a single-nozzle printer, it would normally be the location of the nozzle. On my dual-nozzle printer, I have chosen it to be midway between the two nozzles.

Works Great!!!

Sent buddy

Perfect. Thanks.

@dc42:

I'm glad it's working for you. How well does it correct the level? You can check this by running it a second time. Ideally the adjustments will be zero the second time. In practice, they won't be, but they should be smaller.

I generally run it twice just to make sure. The first time I found out that my lead screws were backwards in the config file. Causing it to adjust the first time the opposite, which made it more out of alignment. Might want to add something to the wiki about that.

Once I got that setup correctly, it would fix within 0.02mm of level, as reported by BLTouch. After doing the bed leveling, I did a mesh bed compensation, and it looked way better than what I was able to get by hand.

To put it simply, I actually placed an order for a Duet X5, another stepper, and lead screw setup to actually convert my whole bed to a 3 lead screw system, without using belts.