1500 may be a bit high for the motors? 80% of max as a rule of thumb. But given the motor parameters you can do some calculations to figure out what a good ballpark should be.

I've adjusted that and can't really tell if it's working or not. It didn't drop yesterday but it went into alarm shortly after starting the print. I'm going to try adding another ribbon cable for the BLTouch tonight and see if that works. Maybe the one from TriangleLabs isn't a great copy? I'm hesitant to spend $40-50 for an "authentic" one that may have the same issue.

You don't need a resistor. A simple switch will do, but preferably put a 100 ohm resistor in series with it.

DC42, I got the new LCD and it's definitely better, the screen has no interference. However it will not run stable of the 5v line on the LCD header. I checked and it's feeding only 4.7v. The 5v supply is 5.5v, so that's a big drop on the 5v line going to the LCD.

The main thing to make sure of is that the connection between the ground side of the Duet VIN terminal block and the ground side of the VIN terminal block on that board is short and secure. If it is too long then noise on the ground wire could cause the stepper driver to malfunction. If the ground wire is not secure than that board could feed VIN into the step/dir/end signals or the +3.3V from the Duet and damage it.

This requirement is not specific to the Duet, it applies to connecting non-isolated expansion stepper drivers to any electronics.

The three red pins labelled V are probably all connected together on that board, in which case they should be connected to +3.3V from the expansion connector.

HTH David

You can connect lighting to an unused heater output too, if you disable the corresponding heater using M307, which makes it available for general purpose output using M42.

@martins:

another solution here is Raspberry Pi zerow or rpi3 or any (zerow+cam = cheapest option)
all you need is to install motioneyeos https://github.com/ccrisan/motioneyeos/wiki/Supported-Devices

after you connect to you network with it , just open IP asigned by dhcp for you
log in username admin password empty

few steps to setup fast network cam

http://www.bbmail.co/duet/dwcam/1.png

http://www.bbmail.co/duet/dwcam/2.png

after set fast network cam hit Apply button

http://www.bbmail.co/duet/dwcam/3.png

copy url displayed in step 5

fill in DWC

http://www.bbmail.co/duet/dwcam/4.png

and you get at the end

http://www.bbmail.co/duet/dwcam/5.png

hope this helps someone 🙂

This worked like a charm. Thanks.

Thanks again!

I really wanted a rotary encoder to dial in the first layer but after using the Duet WiFi and converting my core x/y to the mini differential IR sensor and building a delta with a delta smart effector sensing accuracy is so precise my prints start up great. Occasionally I use baby stepping and noticed the setting stays in effect until I shut the printer off, at least it appears to work this way. Hard to tell since things just work so much better with the Duet WiFi.

Thanks for the great work.

Ed

If you are using an external mosfet module you can connect it to the heated bed output. I do. But it won't draw 15a, more like 50mA. You could in theory use another pin and save your heated bed output for some other purpose, you don't really need two mosfets in series, but it's easier this way.

NM. Solved this problem. The web config somehow put in a y2 in the endstop list rather than y1. Odd that homing still went in the right direction.

Any recommendations on some with small IR elements? I had a hard enough time deciding to get these.

I can re-print a mount that can hold the filament more centered. I'll let you know if that helps.

Thanks for spotting this. The documentation was wrong; I have just corrected it.

If the LED doesn't flash on boot up, but you get a reading close to 0 when the sensor is a long way from the bed followed by about 465 and then 535 when it is close, but still no LED, then it sounds like the LED has failed or isn't properly soldered on. Please ask your supplier for a replacement sensor.

I'm sorry to hear that you received a PCB with a dented wifi module. I doubt that it will affect the wifi, but as we can't be certain of that, please ask your supplier for a replacement Duet under warranty.

Display or touch calibration should fix the issue.

@dc42:

Some fans can be made to work with PWM if you set the frequency (F parameter in M106) very low, e.g. 100 or even lower. But the 30mm ones that E3D supplies didn't work with PWM at all when I tried them.

Ah, that doesn't sound good! I'll try swapping them as suggested above just to check. The fan that throttles down is a 40mm Noctua that I bought.

Shame that E3D fans have to be on full speed, suggests the cooling fins on the chimera aren't very effective. I had heard rumours to that effect prior to their new design coming out.

hmm should have worked with the A4988s!

Hi, can you email info@duet3d.com with more details.

Wouldn't feed hold be equivalent to using pause/resume with empty pause.g and resume.g files? That wouldn't be desirable when 3D printing because you would get a blob or worse.