@phaedrux said in Expansion header pinout?:

you mean like this? https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Duet_Wiring_Diagrams

Yes, thank you.

(Damn it, my eyes AND my brain have failed me)

'Sup.

It's either my brain or my eyes, but I am unable to find the expansion header pinout of the Duet Wifi/Ethernet. Can somebody link it here please?

@compatibilizer Found this interesting approach, although you'd have to dig a little bit: https://openbuilds.com/builds/zidex.5259/

@neil said in Duet3D custom configuration/usage help:

Looking at picking up a Duet3D for a custom 3D printer build and wondering if it would allow me to configure in this custom way:

• Use my own X & Y stepper drivers... can I tell the Duet that X and Y are on I/O pins (10 & 11 it seems) on the expansion header? Or do I have to bypass the X & Y drivers on board and use those specific channels for my external drivers?
• Use the existing X,Y,Z stepper drivers for 3 Z steppers.
• Am I correct in understanding that the if I configure it for 3 Z steppers, it can auto-level by individually manipulating the 3 Z steppers? And is this just configuration or would it require custom coding?
• For my larger bed, I am planning on using 4 smaller heater pads, so would need 4 bed heaters with 4 independent thermistor inputs for those. Are the heater channels on the Duex5 for bed heaters? Or are those only for extruders?
• If I use a Duex5, would the Step/Dir 10 & 11 channels no longer be available for my X & Y axes (so I'd have to get X & Y from the Duex channels now)?
• I'm planning to use 2 E3D Titan Aero extruders, and can get 24V or 12V options. Would 24V be better (lower current), or is there any reason to go with 12V?
• If I don't get a Paneldue right away (as I want to dev/test this incrementally), am I correct in understanding (from the Getting Connected guide) that I can just use the USB and web interface for everything for now, or would I need some hardwired UI/LCD to get it setup?

Thanks!

Hi!

Imma try and answer all of your questions:

1.If you want external drivers with a DueX5 attached, then you can use the pins of the Conn_lcd header for this purpose (you can attach up to two drivers there).

2.You can utilize the existing drivers of the Duet for 3 independent Z-Screws and leveling the bed. It's already integrated into the firmware, so you just need to configure it.

3.The Heater channels on the DueX5 are NOT capable of handling the current required for Bed heaters. However, if you use SSRs for the High power, then you can use them with independent Thermistor control.

4.Go with 24V. You can use thinner and (therefore) lighter wires. Also, if you need 12V for something like a Hotend cooling fan, you can use a Buck-Converter.

5.Indeed, you can use USB/the Webinterface for testing. The firmware actually does NOT support regular 20x4 character LCDs.

I hope I could answer all of your questions. How to configure the features, look at the documentation, I haven't done it myself.

Cheers,

Dennis

@dc42 Well, I tested it out.

It works in positive direction (carriage moving DOWN), but not in negative (carriage moving UP), which seems really strange to me. Any idea?

Hey there!

I am finally getting around to configuring my printer.

A small problem though: I can't get it to run properly. Like, I tell it to move up in Z (it's a Delta), the motors make noise, but nothing else. Or it moves in XY, but not -X-Y. Why is that?

Hi!

I honestly don't know about the other stuff, but deckingmans printer could help you with the Z-Axis design.

Here's a link, just search on his blog:

https://somei3deas.wordpress.com/

@t3p3tony said in 12V Heater Cartridges on 24V PSU?:

Yes you can. basically the mosfets switch the ground side of the circuit so you can provide 12V power directly to the heater cartidge and then have only the Gnd connected :

https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/3288/converted-to-split-12v-24v-no-communication-help/4

Awesome!

@t3p3tony said in 12V Heater Cartridges on 24V PSU?:

@titanone yeah its dangerous to use 12V cartidges at 24V even if you dial the power down loads. A failure that makes it go full power can melt the heatblock, have a look at this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qVjWg2vuWzk

Electronics are not infallible so its best to start from a design that is as safe as possible (and 150W+ potential draw on the heater cartridge is not safe).

I just remembered a post about using a 24v supply for a heated bed and a 12v one for the rest, wiring it up in a way that the internal bed MOSFET could be used. Couldn't I do the same (but with the Heater Cartridges) and a 12V power brick?

@djdemond said in 12V Heater Cartridges on 24V PSU?:

Yes by using a 24v to 12v buck converter. Or by buying 24v heater cartridges.

A 12v cartridge run at 24v produces 4 times the power. That's why you can't achieve this by setting PWM to 50% (as that's not actually 50% lower power) or even PWM 25% which is 50% lower power output because you're forcing the cartridge to run at 120w (when it was 30w at 12v) which is not good from a safety point of view.

As a real ghetto work around you could run two 12v cartridges in series, but you need to do something with the second one - maybe there is something else that needs usefully heating? More likely to just be a fire risk, having a hot thing flapping about doing nothing.

Dang, well then. Guess I will have to Frankenstein an ATX PSU I have laying around and use that until I have 24V Cartridges. Thanks anyway!