I just had to redefine the Tools and Bed in S3d. Thanks for all the help guys

Possibly, but try M21, that would initialize the SD card.
It happenned to me a few times and that usually work.

Hi Guys,
I have connected a diode to the sensor, with anode side(no line on the plastic) into the connectors on the duet wifi, and the cathode side(line on the plastic) into the wire on the sensor itself.

LJ12A3-4-Z/AX

When using either E0 STP pin or the Z STP for the sensor signal no light comes on. i.e. when the probe is triggered the red light is turned off, when the probe isn't triggered the red light is on( in my case the lights have never been on to begin with)

Please Help as this is making me pull my hair out.
At the moment the sensor is connected to the E0 Connector
The code is as follows:

; Endstops
M574 X1 Y1 S1;
M574 E0 Z1 S0;
M558 P4 X0 Y0 Z1 E0 H10 I1 F80 T6000 ; for inductive sensor, Set Z probe type to switch, the axes for which it is used and the dive height + speeds
M557 X0:170 Y13:180 S25; Define mesh grid
G31 P1000 X0 Y0 Z0; Set Z probe trigger
alt text

Timing... I had some foot surgery so I'm stuck at home for the next 3 weeks, and Tony Lock at Think3DPrintD sent me a Duet and Panel Due that arrived the day before the surgery.

I'm having a little trouble moving around right now, so I sit at the computer with my foot elevated and plan. In a week or so, when I can move around more comfortably, I'll start the rewiring.

You can connect the pairs of winding in either series or in parallel, whichever gives you the most suitable rated current and inductance. Parallel connection will give you double the rated current and one quarter of the inductance compared to series connection.

@dc42 That fits pretty well. I often flip back and forth between my desktop and my laptop.

I'll wait for 2.0 to sort it then.

Just make sure that they can't short together.

@dc42 said in Unstable temperature readings during heating:

It sounds that you have insufficient thermal insulation underneath the bed heater.

This is true. Unfortunately I haven't found the right case for the Duet to isolate the flow from the cooling fan, and have deferred the cork base until I receive the 240V heater - so resolution of this is in the works, however this isn't the cause of the erratic temp readings.

@dc42 Thank you that fixed it.

I see how that would work, not sure whether to feel embarrassed at not having spotted it - or peeved that it accepted a 'default' that I never intended ☺ .

Sorry to have troubled you!

The 1.02 and later revision Duet PCBs have built-in flyback diodes. The earlier ones don't.

Are you fan-cooling the area of the board with the fan mosfets? At 1.5A continuous current they will get hot if you don't.

Fans 0 and 2 shouldn't blip on startup. Fan 1 will because it defaults to being on, for maximum safety when it is used to control the hot end heatsink fan.

2H86 I got everything to work literally turning it off and on again for some reason that has worked haha gotta love it

@dc42 Yep, a ground wire and heated bed thermisters were both pinched and shorted together. Looks like I did a bad job putting things together.

Electricians tape on ground and thermisters resolved the issue of the hotend reporting incorrect temperature but the hotbed is still showing 2000 and the Z-Tower stepper's LED isn't lit so it looks like I'm not out of the woods yet.

I suspect power isn't flowing to the z-tower which is also connected to the hotbed and had the pinched wires.

Will work with SeeMeCNC support and hopefully figure this out.

Thanks again for your help, good to know I probably won't blow up another Duet (fingers crossed).

Not a problem as long as the cable resistance is not too high. Aim for no more than 0.2 ohms per conductor.

That's all you should need to do. Future firmware versions may also require S1 to enable pause on filament error.

@sqzi and here:
https://www.duet3d.com/DuetEthernet_Module

Yes the low end/high end refers to where the nozzle is when the endstop switch is triggered.

If the E1 output is free than I suggest you connect the second stepper motor to E1, to avoid having to buy new motors. Then put M584 X0 Y1 Z2:4 E3 in config.g, before any M350 or M906 commands.

I have a similar setup with water cooling and the main system running at 24V. With that, I'd recommend you to follow DC42's advice and feed the 12V power into the fan voltage selector pin. That and maybe just get all of the fans in 12V.

On my system I also went for a separate 12V PSU since with the pump, LEDs, all of the fans and a webcam I'm drawing above 3A total and it made little sense to get a boost converter at this point. As I've mentioned the currents - a word of warning. I don't know how much your water cooling pump is drawing, but if it's as hungry as mine, I would consider hooking it up directly to the 12V converter. In my case I was afraid of overloading the fan selector connector - I think those simple pin connectors aren't rated for more than 1.5-2 amps of continuous power.

Have you set high microstepping using the M350 command in config.g? If so, set it back to x16 with interpolation for now. Homing the printer with high microstepping can cause the network to disconnect, because the processor is too busy generating step pulses and checking endstops to handle the network traffic quickly enough.

@pugzor Yay, glad it was a easy fix.

i missed it. thanks!

Use the M305 command as for a thermistor, but add parameter X500+n where N is the channel number. Only the R, H and L parameters are significant. Example:

M305 P1 X501 R4700 ; heater 1 uses a PT1000 connected to thermistor channel 1 which has a 4.7K series resistor