@Phaedrux Followed step by step and it worked like a charm !
A bit of confusion here and there but everything works fine now.
Thank you !

@droftarts and @Phaedrux thank you both for your advice and time. I will implement the above solution and update you as soon as possible.

@Kiryl I am sorry that your EXP1HCL board appears to have a problem reading the encoder. Please send a short email to warranty@duet3d.com and include a link to this thread. You will receive a reply with a link to a form to fill in.

Thanks for the tips, everyone. The SBC seems to be a good way forward.

Can you give some more detailed info? see here

https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/5909/guide-for-posting-requests-for-help

@eznish
Yes. I found this document and follow this instruction.

@RogerPodacter Depends how fancy you plan on getting. The 6HC etc has more ram and flash to work with and larger drivers, etc. So if you're wanting something to grow into, that may be the way to go.

The mini5+ is already pretty expandable with the 2 driver add on and Canbus.

In other words, you're spoilt for choice.

@Phaedrux Thank you. I used the following codes and solved the problem:

M307 H0 B0 S1.00
M305 P0 T107600 B4138 R4700
M143 H0 S120

M305 P1 T104300 B4138 R4700
M143 H1 S280
............
..............
M563 P0 D0 H1 F0 ;define tool 1
G10 P0 X0 Y0 Z0 ;set tool 0 axis offsets
G10 P0 R0 S0 ;set initial tool 0 active and standby temperature to 0C
11.PNG

@Pertti I had a dodgy revo six heatercore, simply shot them an email and they sent me out a new one!

https://docs.duet3d.com/en/User_manual/Troubleshooting/Parts gives you exact part numbers which should alleviate any doubt.

(Also I much prefer Molex KK over non latching connectors where cheap printer manufacturers resort to hot glue to make up for lack of latch)

@martin7404 that's correct, if the tool board will be the last (or only) CAN-connected board on the bus.

The conversion to the duet 3 mini is complete. Just a few things to adjust. Thank you for your help, you are great

Check the M203 I parameter

https://docs.duet3d.com/en/User_manual/Reference/Gcodes#m203-set-maximum-feedrate

@droftarts said in Duet3 Mini 5+ catches fire when micro USB is plugged in:

If you want to try and repair the voltage regulators, part numbers are here: https://docs.duet3d.com/en/User_manual/Troubleshooting/Parts#voltage-regulators

Thank you! I'm not averse to attempting a fix myself, I have all the equipment. Didn't wanna muck up the board any further though if you wanted it back for a trade in. I appreciate the resources and will consider it.

@dc42 said in Duet3 Mini 5+ catches fire when micro USB is plugged in:

Were the Duet PSU and the PC plugged into different wall sockets, or into a socket strip powered from the same wall socket?

They (desktop and printer) were plugged into two separate wall sockets across the room that are on the same circuit. This house was built with aluminum wiring and has several other electrical obscurities, so I wouldn't rule out something wrong with my mains wiring.

Also, I checked the neutral and ground connections and they are quite secure. I also hadn't ran the heater or anything, it was quite an immediate burst of flames when I plugged in the USB.

@TRATOON i have used these finned strip heaters, in a heated chamber build before got up to 90 degrees c https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291050095804
I first got some out of and old stratus printer but i did not know the name of them at the time.

@jay_s_uk Hey I got it working, But the Z offset is a little different.

@chrishamm my boards are 1.3

@Dizzwold said

What I'm ultimately trying to achieve is an always On 5v power system, with a momentary switch to fire-up the Duet from the 24v PSU.

What do you mean by 'fire up' the Duet? The Duet will be running all the time you've got the 5V on. It's the motors and heaters that won't be 'fired up'.

So is your plan that you have a permanently-running process that monitors for 24V and when it sees that it switches on the PS_ON? If your plan for that is daemon.g, you'll need an embedded faster loop (unless you're willing to hold your momentary swicth for at least 10 seconds). I don't think I'd do that.

If you've got the duet running permanently, and you wnat to manually switch your 24V, I think it would be better just to put the momentary switch on one of the IO inputs, set a trigger, and that can switch the power on immediately.

However, I'm not sure why you even want that, because I don't understand why you want the user to be switching the 24V at all. If you scrap the momentary switch, and put M80 in the slicer start gcode, and M81 S1 in the slicer end gcode, the Duet will switch on the 24V when it starts each print job, do the print, and then switch the 24V off again when it has finished. No button pressing required. That's what I do (except via a mechanical relay, not an SSR).

@RogerPodacter not much I can think of for where you could put it to use. Maybe as a secondary bed temperature sensor?