@OwenD , brilliant, just brilliant!
I got everything to work except one tiny bit that will have to wait for DWC 3.5. Thank you very much!

thank you @droftarts , the Y axis indeed had the wrong amount of teeth

@jens55 The only time I can think of where you might want to upload the entire contents of an SD card, is if the card had got had got corrupted. In which case, you'd need to start again with a new card. In that case, you'd simply insert the card into the PC and drag the entire folder across. Then simply eject the card, pop it into the board and you'll be up and running in no time. At least that's what I have done in the past.....

@chrishamm WOOOHOOOO !!!! We are back in business .... thank you very much!
BTW, the 'turn off everything' command works - thanks for fixing that!

@Ajith-Pinninti said in G28 W Error: Failed to enable endstops:

M574 W1 S1 P"!e2stop"

Try duex.e2stop as the pin name.

@jay_s_uk Thanks - dumber than that - drive not connected !! Was running a test on Drive 0 so not sure why Drive 1 was throwing a Warning since it was not used at all.

Anyway thanks - just need to make sure Drive 0 and Drive 1 are connected. Doesn't seem to mind not having Z axis connected.

@Steppenleguan said in Independent dual z axis with endstops - z homing not working:

@knuxvomica no they don´t.
Current state: G28 homing failed , and nothing happens
Before with a homez.g: The axis lifts 5mm, moves down then passes! the endstops and hits my frame when I don´t emergency stop...

As you can see I am using the M564 command to test the axis movements in advance (which works fine) but obviously I don´t have any homing , i.e. no printing possible

M564 H0 ;move without homing

@Phaedrux said in Independent dual z axis with endstops - z homing not working:

Please post your full config.g
Homing Z should be as simple as a G1 H1 Z move to move the z axis such that the endstops are hit.

You need G1 H1 Z-700 at the end of your homeall.g to home the Z axis. The same would be needed in homez.g

@axiom Moin axiom,

As „Start G-Code“, this here should be sufficient:

G28 ; Home M83 ; set extruder to relative mode G92 E0 ; reset extruder’s relative position to 0

Most other instructions to prepare the printer for a job should better be written into the start.g macro on SD card.

I don’t quite understand this here:

However, the start position in the control panel changes.

With „control panel“, do you mean DWC, PanelDue or something else?

Generally, it’s quite simple. In your Druckeinstellungen, you told Cura about the size of your printer and the origin of the coordinate system: „Ausgang in Mitte“ (BTW: strange translation of ‚center origin‘) is deselected, so the origin should be front left. At least, that’s what Cura assumes.

Now, depending on where you place your print object in Cura, this should correspond to its placement on your print bed … as far as you defined the printer’s X/Y origin to be at the front left. If the position doesn’t match, there’s something wrong with either the size values in the Druckereinstellungen of Cura or with the axes-settings of your printer.

G30 S-1 is typically used to measure your probe offset.

G92 Z would be used to force a certain position, which kind of defeats to purpose of the probe.

Use a single G30 to probe, and you're good to go.

https://docs.duet3d.com/en/User_manual/Machine_configuration/Configuration_cartesian#homing-z

https://docs.duet3d.com/en/User_manual/Connecting_hardware/Z_probe_testing

@Phaedrux
I deleted all 4 lines... and what can I say... amazing speed!!
Thank you both
Many greetings,
Don

PS: New puzzles are just appearing again (progress display and filament consumption...but first the printer is running and I can devote myself to the insulation and construction space closure)

@axiom
How are you doing it now?
Why do you need to change it?

@droftarts thank you ian

@CNCModeller This thread is about multi-motion systems in RRF3.5

https://docs.duet3d.com/en/User_manual/RepRapFirmware/Multiple_motion_systems

@ansonyang unfortunately they have chosen to use a common ground for the three optically isolated inputs, instead of providing both +ve and -ve inputs as is normal. As a result, the inputs of that board are not directly compatible with the outputs of the 6XD, which are open drain. You could connect them directly as shown in the diagram on that page and add a pullup resistor (I suggest between 470 ohm and 1K) between each one and the +5V pin on the 6XD. This will result in all three signals being inverted. You can correct for direction inversion using the M569 command in config.g, and you can correct for Enable inversion using the Enable polarity jumper on the 6XD if all your external drivers need the same polarity. The Step input pulse polarity cannot be inverted, however I think using reverse step polarity may work if you set the direction hold time to at least 1us.

I am puzzled at to why you are using these drivers with the 6XD, instead of choosing the 6HC which has similar drivers on board with full SPI control.

@Phaedrux

thanks for this quality reply. I going to try this evening.

Perfect! I love a simple fix. Thanks for the help!

@deckingman said in Varying nozzle mixing ratio by real time location in a print...:

That commercial design I mentioned which uses a paddle, is the Rencolor DM-10. I had a quick look and it appears that it only mixes two filaments, and the filament path involves 90 degree bends. I don't see how it would be possible to relieve pressure on the nozzle for non-print moves - retractions just won't cut it. The demo video shows a simple vase with no - non print moves and no fine detail as I suspected. But it might be worth a look for what you want to do.

For anyone interested, Rencolor DM-10:-

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/56949912/rencolor-dm-10-fdm-color-3d-printer

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Thank you @dc42

@alankilian Thanks for the help