@jay_s_uk It's the super8.
24000mm/s travel speed is not the end. Could go faster, but that's not the goal of the hashPrinter test rig.

@appoli13 said in Can this sensor be used as zprobe?:

Per chance would you know what duty cycle the duet defaults to?

AFAIK 50% but @dc42 will need to confirm

@gip_86 I visited the IR-probe category, because I have made a magnetic flexplate with 1mm pertinax (phenol resin). It came sanded on one side from the vendor and because it's darker and opaque than FR4 it triggers the IR sensor well.
I had issues at first, because I powered the probe from 5V. With 3.3V it's much better.
Still my heightmaps look horrible, even when I remove the pertinax and probe the magnetic sheet instead.
Pertinax
height_pertinax.jpg
Mag-sheet only (with a glitch!, surface too shiny?)
height_magnetOnly.jpg

So it's either a not so flat mag-sheet (bought from a site for magnetic car advertising)
or the cast aluminum plate is bent...

@phaedrux I personally prefer to probe Z on a point that's coinciding with one of the grid points. If I can't easily probe the center with the grid (for example due to probe offsets and probe point setup), I prefer to probe Z at the location of the first probe point since that's easily derived from the mesh definition.

@o_lampe said in Use IR probe to detect bed edge?:

Or you'd have to redefine the probe between Z,X,Y using different endstop definition.

of course I'd need to redefine the probe, but thanks to RRF being so dynamic that's just another line in the homing file.

I am also curious about this. I just ordered an ir probe to try on one of my printers since my BL-Touch doesn't like the high strength magnets in the new heated bed I just installed. The printer is enclosed and eventually I would like to get the temps in the enclosure in the 70-80C range.

I think I´ve got it working sort of.

homeall.g
G91 ; relative positioning
G1 H2 Z5 F6000 ; lift Z relative to current position
G1 H1 X-405 Y-405 F3000 ; move quickly to X and Y axis endstops and stop there (first pass)
G1 H2 X5 Y5 F6000 ; go back a few mm
G1 H1 X-405 Y-405 F240 ; move slowly to X and Y axis endstops once more (second pass)
G90
G1 H2 X200 Y200 F3000
G30

; Z-Probe
M558 C"121.io1.in" P8 H10 F120 T6000 ;
G31 P50 X0 Y-36 Z1.35
M557 X15:400 Y15:400 S20 ; define mesh grid

Hope this will others having this promblem

Big thanks to the crew

@dc42 ok i changed the distance from 4 mm to 1.5 mm and that worked. Thanks. Dont know why it worked so long before.

Does it seem like it's correcting in the wrong direction?

You may be running afoul of this guidance:

You must use the M671 command to define the X and Y coordinates of the leadscrews. The M671 command must come after the M584 command and must specify the same number of X and Y coordinates as the number of motors assigned to the Z axis in the M584 command; and these coordinates must be in the same order as the driver numbers of the associated motors in the M584 command. The M671 command must also come after any M667 or M669 command.

https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Bed_levelling_using_multiple_independent_Z_motors

Post your config.g please.

@SupraGuy Hmmm....I do have HTP Stove paint...🤔

Nice work. The sense of accomplishment is well worth the cost of the tools.

ok I'm going to run another test and see the results. thank you

@dm86 said in Z Home - Multiple probe average:

I couldn't find reference to the S-1 command anywhere

The A and S parameters control multiple probing. Probing is repeated until two consecutive probe attempts produce results that differ by no more than the S parameter; then the average of those two results is used. However, if the number of attempts specified by the A parameter is reached without getting two consecutive results within tolerance of each other, no further probe attempts are made and the average result of all the attempts is used.

I guess it's kind of hidden in that paragraph. I should add a note in there about using S-1 to force the averaging.

I do appreciate everyone's help/input. Now on to wiring the rest of the board

@Veti Thanks

Your photos show an extrusion very close to the side of the sensor. I am wondering whether a reflection from that might be interfering with the sensor reading. If that's the case, probing a little further away from that extrusion or putting matt black tape over it might have helped.

That said, a properly working BLTouch is likely to give similar or better results that are not affected by the transparency of the bed surface.

@knutselsmurf said in IR sensor troubles, hotend fan not running too:

after calibrating (using the method from https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com/mini-height-sensor-board/, I started a testprint. When it starts the bed is raised too high: the melted filament can't get out the hotend and after some time the tube-clamp is pushed out the top of the hotend.

adjust with babystepping until its fine. then apply the babystepping to the offset.

something else: when the hotend is heated up, the hotend FAN is not running: I can start it by moving the fan-slider in the duet browser panel, but that is not what we want ofcourse.

what firmware version are you running?
also you dont have a part fan configured. all your fans are Thermostatic control

Ah yes, that would definitely do it.

69f22445-b45b-43cc-a08d-0e7b2489d9d8-image.png
source: https://github.com/dc42/OrmerodSensorBoard/blob/master/SchematicAndPCB/Mini-differential-IR/V1.2/board.png
@dc42 the parts arrived. but i think i have to point the green square on the back as shown on the scematic or? so that its towards the corner of the pcb, away from the black capacitor, or?

Regards, Simon

EDIT: I tryed it as you described. I had to face green square to the outside for it to read

Holy crap, it seems to have worked! I soldered the capacitor flush with the board and it seems to be triggering only in the 2-4mm range. I used my 4x7mm capacitor that I had on hand, but the main thing was to make sure light does not bleed under it.

Probably that's what happened when the old one got knocked, a slit was formed under it that allowed the light to pass, even if the electrical connections were not broken.

Thanks a lot @dc42!