Topics created by Reefwarrior

@olliss the output connectors switch the ground side, not the power supply side so that wont work. you can put a external switch (like a relay, SSR etc) in between to turn off the power.

@reefwarrior

Since homing Z with a probe can led to situations like you describe all of my printers include a Z endstop sensor which allows for unambiguous Z homing. No more Z up, Z down when homing X and Y. Just home Z and leave at a suitable position like Z=10 then home X and home Y. Since the Z position is always known there are no issues with probing with Z too low.

Frederick

@phaedrux
@ctilley79
@Stephen6309

Thank you all! 🙂

@dc42

Ok, i'll try that binary out and see if it yields an different result. Regarding the last tuning i did it with the chamber doors closed so it's not likely it was a draught, neither did i hear any drop in the fan speed, but who knows 😅

Also just as a side note, i see that your M307 has 24V spot on, i've adjusted my PSU to be a little bit over at 24,6v (measured with a multimeter on the output). What's the most "correct" thing to do there when it comes to adjusting the output for a 3D printer? I come from the automotive industry and i'm used to seing higher voltages due to battery charing etc.

EDIT:

Tuned again with 3.4.0rc2+2 at 230°C and got this (without a warning):

Auto tuning heater 1 completed after 3 idle and 10 tuning cycles in 254 seconds. This heater needs the following M307 command: M307 H1 R4.716 K0.702:0.275 D2.47 E1.35 S1.00 B0 V24.7 Send M500 to save this command in config-override.g

Under half the time of the first tuning, and no errors. So it might be wise to tune the Revo's somewhere bellow 250°C (the first tuning that took 631 seconds was at 280°C), unless you put some special sauce in the rc2+2 @dc42 😅

Click on the Topic Tools icon (the little gear) and select "ask as question". Then click on it again and select "mark as solved".

@reefwarrior nobody knows it. What i know is that this is on the wishlist https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/12681/total-hours-of-operation-printing-feature?_=1622489457343

@phaedrux said in Using a start script from CURA and passing Variables?:

You can use a macro file called start.g to do whatever you want at the start of a print BEFORE the slicer gcode is executed. So you could specify that it heats up and does the homing/leveling/etc and when it's all done that, pases over to the sliced gcode file for final temp setting and starting the print.

I do something similar (as a cura user), and call a “wipe.g” file at a certain point once the extruder has primed. A similar approach is easily done to accomplish what the OP is outlining by putting the desired commands prior to printing in a similar “g” file that then is called in the startup code in cura.

@phaedrux Cool! 🙂 I suspected that it may be in a different file - seems I am finally grasping how this part works 🙂

The part circled in red is the diode that feeds 5V USB power to the Duet. If it's failed open circuit then the Duet won't be able to get power from USB. If it's failed short circuit then it will, but connecting USB as well as VIN power would be more risky than usual.

Have you measured the voltage on the +3.3v rail, the output from the regulator that you replaced? When that regulator gets hot or fails, that usually means that you had over-voltage on the 3.3v rail. The first additional components to fail are usually the WiFi module and the SD card. So check whether they are getting hot. The faint blue LED on the WiFi module suggests to me that it has failed.

In theory the MCU can be flashed though the PanelDue port using Bossa, but I've never tried it. You would need a USB serial-to-3.3V converter.

@dc42 you learn something new every day...

@reefwarrior OK seems I got it running 🙂 Used the method described to test and it is working!

Please mark as SOLVED 🙂

Tinus

@jay_s_uk Cool thank you I will do so! 🙂

Also; when I compare the reprap firmware vs the marlin firmware, I find that the marlin firmware, with regards to the PID tuning; and temperature reporting, seems to be more 'stable'. With the reprap I find that the temperature sometimes oscillates with as much as 3°C - is this normal?

@dc42 Chinese! 😞

I suppose one way would be to use FTP to sync your local directories to the Duet. Then sync your local directories to github.

@Phaedrux Awesome, thanx! 🙂

@mrehorstdmd
I agree, but after opening a few beer with teeth they can stand it 😉
Just kidding, I don't drink beer.

@droftarts Hi!

Thank you very much! 🙂 Sometimes I just need to explore a bit more hahaah 🙂

Wishing you an awesome day,
Tinus

Ok, bed issue solved too. Seems the algorithm is too sensitive in my case.

How do I mark this as 'SOLVED' ?

@Reefwarrior said in Defining simple Z end stop:

M558 P0

Manual probing is different than using an endstop. It means that when G30 is called it will prompt you to jog the nozzle down to touch the bed.

M574 Z defines the endstop, but it only gets called into action with a G1 H1 Z move in your homing file.

https://forum.duet3d.com/search?term=backup&in=titles&matchWords=all&sortBy=topic.lastposttime&sortDirection=desc&showAs=posts

specifically I would point out:
https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/10880/rfm-reprapfirmware-filemanager-duetbackup-successor

and https://forum.duet3d.com/post/95872 (by myself)