Topics created by Melfesto

@Melfesto check your start gcode in your slicer

@melfesto said in Stepper motors:

what do you all think of something like this.
https://www.linengineering.com/products/stepper-motors/z417-series/z417-17-02/#fndtn-standard_motor

I'm would imagine they are good but I only pay more when I find I must.

The ones I referenced have worked fine for me (and others).

Frederick

@melfesto The hot end cooling fan really needs to be on when the hot is heated, both before and after a print, and not just during a print. If you map that fan to a tool, then the slicer will be turning it on and off during a print so you'll end up with big problems.

However, you can indeed drop the fan speed when it's warm and ramp it up to full speed as the temperature increases without resorting to manual control. Here is how I do it.

M106 P1 S255 I0 F259 L125 H1 T60:140.

The L parameter sets the minimum non-zero fan speed to 50%. This is to prevent the fan from running at very slow values which I found to be annoying but which you can omit. The H1 parameter sets it to run in thermostatic mode. The T parameter defines the temperature range. So below 60 deg C the fan is off. At 60 deg C the fan will come on at 50% (as defined by the "L" parameter) then it will ramp up to full full speed between 60 and 140 deg C and remain at 100% for any temperature above 140 deg C.

You can if course play around with those L and T values to suit.

That looks like Amazon Basics Black PLA. I print that at 210-220c. So that checks out.

Keep in mind that you're printing a tiny cube on a very hot bed with a very hot nozzle dumping molten filament. It's going to look melty. Your print speed isn't very fast either.

Print something larger like a benchy. Try 50mm/s for walls, infill, and top/bottom solid infill. Increasing the print speed in the slicer will probably increase quality in this case. You may want to try 0.2 layer height as well. I'm not sure what the Z axis full steps are for the Ender 5, but on the Ender 3 it has a 0.04 mm full step resolution, so only multiples of 0.04 are full step layer heights. 0.04, 0.08, 0.12, 0.16, 0.2, etc. You're using 0.15 layer height which is a tad off from that. You can see some layer banding in your photos that could be a result of that.

If you want to fine tune your jerk and acceleration settings you can disable the acceleration and jerk control in Cura and then use the firmware values so you can change them during a print to see their effect. You can modify them at any time during a print by sending the gcode command in the console. M566 X1200 Y1200 would boost the jerk to 20mm/s for example.

Your current firmware values are on the conservative side, so the print quality should be quite good, but a little slow. Once you figure out the best jerk/accel values for each move type you can then use those values in Cura to fine tune the print moves. Slower and smoother for external surfaces, and faster for infills.

The perfect values are going to depend on your printer mechanics and resonances. Slower isn't always smoother. For instance, on my printer, 40mm/s causes a resonance that sounds pretty bad. Upping to 50mm/s and the sound disappears and movement is very smooth.

For jerk, I can get up to about 30mm/s before it starts to thunk and sound rough on direction changes. At around 8mm/s movement becomes too halted and slow downs at corners are too great. 15-20mm/s ends up being the smoothest.

For acceleration 500mm/s^2 is good for eliminating ringing on the outer walls but is too slow for other moves. 1000-2000 for infill moves is much better.