Topics created by bernardomattiucci

I have performed other tests and the result is still the same. Until a few firmware versions ago, I think before 3.2 but I don't remember well, when input shaping was an external plugin, the error "The selected motion profile contains overflows" never appeared. Then with an update it started to appear.

I rewired and not much has changed (i.e... now at least it works, albeit with data overflow).

Question: does the presence of this error, in any way affect the proper functioning of input shaping?

Thanks

@bernardomattiucci If you can, use a 4-wire fan. The PWM control from the Duet is used to modulate the voltage internally, so 4-wire fans are powered by variable voltage, not PWM-chopped voltage. 4-wire fans should meet the Intel PC specification. See the 4-wire tab here: https://docs.duet3d.com/en/User_manual/Connecting_hardware/Fans_connecting#connecting-fans-to-duet-fan-pins
I think that Noctua fan should work. With a 4-wire fan, you also get tachometer readings. They are slightly more complex to connect to Duet 2, but it is covered in the above link.

There's not much advantage of a 3-wire fan vs 2-wire; the 3-wire has a tachometer output, but it will only show the correct speed when the fan is at 100%.

You should be able to get 2-wire fans that work nicely with PWM. I have 2-wire 50x50x10 blower fans, and 40x40x10 standard fans, that don't whine. Playing with the PWM frequency (M950 Q parameter) may help.

The video shows a simple circuit to convert PWM to voltage. That's fine, but these circuits generate heat. There's a few threads on the forum discussing circuits to convert PWM to voltage, for example:
https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/21680/designing-a-pwm-to-analog-mini-board-for-fans
https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/23080/pwm-to-constant-dc-voltage-for-fan-control

Ian

@droftarts said in Two Fan Layer 12V PWM over Duet2 Wifi 24V.:

For the 24V LEDs, you could power and control them from a spare heater output

Ok.
This is definitely more important and urgent than fans.

So I'd better move it to Duex's E2.Heater connector.

Do you have any idea how to activate this output thermostatically?
Meaning. I want E0.Heater on the Duet to start regularly... and when the temperature of E0.Heater exceeds 50°C, only then do I want the LEDs connected on E2.Heater to be turned on...

Led solved

Thanks

@bernardomattiucci first problem is that your measurement tape is not a reliable reference. I had some with an error of up to 10% per centimeter. Get a high quality set of calipers.

@mrehorstdmd

The support base (tile), rests on a support structure. On it is glued a layer of Mica. Then, simply resting on top of each other, are the heater with the aluminum plate, and on top I will mount a 4 mm glass plate with Buildtak.
The silicone pad at the moment I set it on the plate with the thermal paste that is used for processors, hoping it will do the trick. I don't have silicone at the moment.

I've seen the kenovo before, but they don't have the size I need. I will have to contact them directly.

Centering of the aluminum plate and glass is done by 4 plastic angles tightened together with a steel cable equipped with a spring. Nothing fancy. The plate does not move anyway-in my case it is fixed.

Anyway, thank you.
I will update in the next few days.

@bernardomattiucci

Glad to hear you got it work.

One thing to remember about M98 parameters: Certain letters cannot be used. It has to do with the fact that there is nothing special to indicate that what follows is actually a parameter as opposed to be a new command.

For example: M98 P"some_code_to_run.g" G1

You might have intended G1 to be a parameter but G1 is a valid command and gets treated as such.

The letters P and M also won't work, if memory serves, and I think there may be a few others.

I have suggested that an alternate syntax be allowed - something like: M98 P"some_code_to_run.g" (A1 B2 C3 D4 E5)

The ( and ) would make it clear that the letters are parameters and not commands.

Frederick

More update

if job.build != null if job.layer != null && job.layer < 5 M140 S50 if job.layer != null && job.layer >= 5 && job.layer < (job.file.numLayers*20)/100 if heat.heaters[0].current < 40 M140 S50 if heat.heaters[0].current > 50 M140 S40 if job.layer != null && job.layer > (job.file.numLayers*20)/100 M140 S0

@bernardomattiucci
The heating isn't on all the time. There is an LED on the Duet Board that indicates when the bed heater is heating up.

Another possibility to turn off the bed heating completely after the first layers is to choose the right filament and increase the print bed adhesion.

I always level my print bed very meticulously and clean it thoroughly before each print, I always print the first layer with 0.1mm (100% flow) instead of 0.2mm as most people do.
When the skirt is printed, I use pointed tweezers to test how well the print holds on the print bed (FR4 Blackprint from Printbay), I guess I then set the layer height to less than 0.1mm with the help of the baby steps.
I print mostly ABS-X from Minadax and Titan-X from FormFutura, and the prints hold very strongly (almost too strongly) on the print bed even after cooling to room temperature, so I turn the temperature down heavily after the first 5 layers (by hand) .
Only for large prints do I not go below 50°C... out of panic. 😄

Google Translate
-- Original Text --

Die Heizung ist ja nicht ständig an. Auf dem Duet Board ist eine LED die anzeigt wann die Bett-Heizung in der Aufheizphase ist.

Eine weitere Möglichkeit die Bett-Heizung nach den ersten Layern komplett auszustellen ist die Wahl des richtigen Filaments und die Erhöhung der Druckbetthaftung.

Ich level mein Druckbett immer sehr penibel und reinige es gründlich vor jedem Druck, dazu drucke ich den ersten Layer immer mit 0,1mm (100% Flow) anstatt 0,2mm wie die meisten es machen.
Wenn der Skirt gedruckt wird teste ich mit einer spitzen Pinzette wie gut der Druck auf dem Druckbett (FR4 Blackprint von Printbay) hält, ich vermute ich stelle dann die Layerhöhe auf unter 0,1mm mit hilfe der Babystepps ein.
Ich drucke zum größten Teil ABS-X von Minadax und Titan-X von FormFutura, und die Drucke halten selbst nach dem abkühlen auf Zimmertemperatur sehr stark (fast zu stark) auf dem Druckbett, daher regle ich die Temperatur nach den ersten 5 Layern stark herunter (per Hand).
Nur bei großen Drucken gehe ich nicht unter 50°C... aus Panik. 😄

@bernardomattiucci What do you mean by reset, home X? If you pressed home X and that message showed up, you probably have a "ling" line somewhere in your homex.g.

@bernardomattiucci I'd think sharing 5V and GND shouldn't be a problem, but check the current draw of 12x optical sensors (plus the filament sensors) is not higher than the connector specification (3A for KK, I think), or the limits of the 5V regulator. See https://docs.duet3d.com/Duet3D_hardware/Duet_2_family/Duet_2_WiFi_Ethernet_Hardware_Overview#operating-limits and https://docs.duet3d.com/Duet3D_hardware/Duet_2_family/DueX2_and_DueX5#operating-limits

Duet 2 5V current limit - 2.0A total on 5V and 3.3v, including the internal current consumption (around 200-300mA), any PanelDue or other display, and any endstops/Z probes that draw significant power.
DueX 5V current limit - (supplied by connected Duet 2) 1A total on PWM pins and fans (when internal 5V is selected)

Or use external 5V power supply on DueX.

Ian

Good morning and Happy New Year to all,

with reference to this post, I wanted to point out that I have solved almost all the problems by completely redoing the print bed support. For some reason it was deforming due to heat, unevenly and this was creating levelling problems.
At the moment I am using an "aluminium tile", of those commonly used for suspended floors, and this has allowed me to solve the problem of mesh compensation.

Now I'd just like to insert a "dynamic" control in the mesh.g file (I saw it in one of your files but I don't remember who or where) so as to use a 600x600 mesh when the object to be printed is large, and a 300x300 mesh when the object is smaller. maybe @fcwilt was the author... but I'm not sure.

Could you please help me?

Print test result
Test_X-front.jpg Test_Y-front.jpg Test_X-rear.jpg Test_Y-rear.jpg

Assuming Z and extruder have been calibrated, I would add maybe 10% to the extrusion factor.
The side with the "Z" shows the under extrusion. If that side was on the build plate then add the 10 or even 20% to the first layer. Alternatively, you might be set up a little too high for your Z=0 height.

Can't comment on the other little (tiny) issues.

Regular float glass is fine as long as you don't shock it. I use 100C all the time without issues.

And with these 5 photos I close the discussion.

Test_xyzCube_4_end-1.jpg Test_xyzCube_4_end-2.jpg Test_xyzCube_4_end-3.jpg Test_xyzCube_4_end-4.jpg Test_xyzCube_4_end-5.jpg

Thank you all

Good morning
It all seems to work quite well.
Now I just have to figure out how to solve a problem on the Y axis, mostly due to the type of "transmission" used and complete the settings ... before moving on to the print tests!

This is the X axis test: https://youtu.be/UG27txKxALk

@bernardomattiucci said in Controller for my larg format 3D printer:

can the length of the connections affect the correct operation of the printer?

Yes there are going to be some distance limits. It might be a better idea to have the electronics on the printer itself and then use the network to interface with the Duet. Then your "console" just needs to be a computer device with a web browser.

@bernardomattiucci said in Controller for my larg format 3D printer:

12 volt 30 Amp or 24 volt 15 Amp power supply?

24v is preferable for a number of reasons, but your heaters and fans must be compatible. A buck converter can be used to provide 12v for fans at least.