And with these 5 photos I close the discussion.
Thank you all
And with these 5 photos I close the discussion.
Thank you all
It's not perfect but it's still acceptable.
With a 5x5 or denser map, the result would undoubtedly be better, but having built the 3x3 map entirely by hand, with a series of print runs in succession, I can be satisfied. Also because, I repeat, it is a prototype!
Test grid: 595x595x0.2 with 1% filling (printed in 32 minutes @25-30mm/s)
Everything starts moving ... and if it weren't for the power supply fan, you wouldn't hear anything (or almost)!
very beautifull!
Goodmorning everyone
I had entered the codes M566, M203 and M201 in the config.g file to find the speed "limits" of the X and Y axes.
Now the 3 instructions in the file have been commented out.
From the Console I get this:
Custom M566
;M566 X4000.00 Y4000.00 Z300.00 E1500.00 ; set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min)
Original M566
Maximum jerk rates (mm/min): X: 900.0, Y: 900.0, Z: 12.0, E: 120.0, jerk policy: 0
Custom M203
;M203 X20000.00 Y20000.00 Z1000.00 E5000.00 ; set maximum speeds (mm/min)
M203
Max speeds (mm/min): X: 6000.0, Y: 6000.0, Z: 300.0, E: 1200.0, min. speed 30.00
Custom M201
;M201 X5000.00 Y5000.00 Z100.00 E4000.00 ; set accelerations (mm/s^2)
M201
Accelerations (mm/sec^2): X: 500.0, Y: 500.0, Z: 20.0, E: 250.0
I'll do some printing tests with the default values and let you know.
@fcwilt At the moment I cannot change anything, so I would like to use compensation. The problem is that the compensation doesn't seem to work... because on the left side it manages to give me a relatively acceptable height in relation to the plane, while on the right side it doesn't. And I don't understand why.
Tomorrow I will try to modify the map manually, so that I can "force" the compensation only on the right side of the plate.
The new deck is being designed, but it requires structural modifications that I cannot install on this one due to lack of space. I will also have to completely redo the Y-axis, which in this way has limitations that I don't like. But we'll talk about that in late spring!
Good morning
It all seems to work quite well.
Now I just have to figure out how to solve a problem on the Y axis, mostly due to the type of "transmission" used and complete the settings ... before moving on to the print tests!
This is the X axis test: https://youtu.be/UG27txKxALk
@fcwilt Yes, I know that, but at the moment I am not interested in exceptional quality. I just want it to print what I want, how I want it and without too many mistakes.
I will slowly replace the various "definitive" PLA parts with aluminium alloy equivalents, so that all the mechanics become more stable. At that point, having in the meantime replaced the round guides (X and Z with MGN15 recirculating ball bearings), I will be able to create the 20x20 mesh.
Thank you
I think pin #8 of the Duet should be connected to pin 3V0 of the LIS3DH
I fixed the errors in the code.
if job.build != null
if job.layer != null && job.layer <= 5
M140 S50
elif job.layer != null && job.layer > 5
if job.layer < 20
if heat.heaters[0].current < 40
M140 S50
if heat.heaters[0].current > 50
M140 S40
else
M140 S0
if job.build != null
if job.layer != null && job.layer <= 5
M140 S50
elif job.layer != null && job.layer > 5
if ((job.file.numLayers*20)/100) < 20
if heat.heaters[0].current < 40
M140 S50
if heat.heaters[0].current > 50
M140 S40
else
M140 S0
seems to be working
By the way, I happened to watch this video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v7Fc8p8aaxc
what do you think of it?
I need to change the layer fan and I don't know which one to get for my 24Volt powered Duet 2 WiFi.
To premise that I currently only print PLA and the 4020 axial fan I have has started to make a bad noise. I need to change it as soon as possible and would like to replace it with something that can be efficient, quiet and durable.
With the filaments I am using, I hardly have to send it over 50%, so which of the 3 possible alternatives is best? ....con 2, 3 or 4 wires?
Any recommendations?
Consider that it is currently connected to the “duex.fan3” connector and is configured as follows:
M950 F0 C"duex.fan3" Q200
M106 P0 S0 L90 C"Layer Fan" H-1
NF-A4x10 24V PWM
although it is more subtle, I really like this one.
my layer conveyor is set up for both 1 and 2 fans.
I might start by trying 1 fan....
@droftarts said in Two Fan Layer 12V PWM over Duet2 Wifi 24V.:
For the 24V LEDs, you could power and control them from a spare heater output
Ok.
This is definitely more important and urgent than fans.
So I'd better move it to Duex's E2.Heater connector.
Do you have any idea how to activate this output thermostatically?
Meaning. I want E0.Heater on the Duet to start regularly... and when the temperature of E0.Heater exceeds 50°C, only then do I want the LEDs connected on E2.Heater to be turned on...
Led solved
Thanks
Good morning
My current setup is a Duet2 Wifi with a Deux5 powered at 24volt.
Since I have to replace the layer fan because the current one (24v) It started to make a hellish noise, I wanted to know if from the Duet or the Duex5, it was possible to power only the layer fans (I will put 2 side by side) with 12volt voltage. I have several that I can use, 2-, 3-, and 4-wire...all very similar to each other...and I didn't quite understand, from the documentation, which is the best solution for more precise and especially safe control.
And if so--what should I do.
The fans, for convenience, I would connect them to the Fan3 and Fan4 connectors.
While I will keep the extruder fan on the Duet, connected to the Fan0 connector.
I would then have to connect a set of LEDs (9 LEDs in series) powered at 24volt that would light me under the extruder. Right now I have them connected to the Fan2 connector on the Duet and I control it exactly like it was a thermostatically controlled fan.
Any recommendations?
Thanks
Bernardo
Is it possible to derive the actual distance traveled in X and Y using the head-mounted accelerometer?
Is it possible to derive the actual distance traveled in X and Y using the head-mounted accelerometer?
Or is there some other way to do such verification?
Because my printer has some inconsistency between measurements of the 3D object and those of the printed object. Different differences for X and Y and I don't understand what the specific problem might be.
To preface, I just did a belt upgrade, fitting 9mm Gates Powergrip GT2's on the Y-axis (2 in parallel) and a 6mm Gates Powergrip GT2 on the X-axis, but I get the impression that there is some other problem that I can't pinpoint!
This is a 3d printed scale on Y-Axis.
Thanks
The support base (tile), rests on a support structure. On it is glued a layer of Mica. Then, simply resting on top of each other, are the heater with the aluminum plate, and on top I will mount a 4 mm glass plate with Buildtak.
The silicone pad at the moment I set it on the plate with the thermal paste that is used for processors, hoping it will do the trick. I don't have silicone at the moment.
I've seen the kenovo before, but they don't have the size I need. I will have to contact them directly.
Centering of the aluminum plate and glass is done by 4 plastic angles tightened together with a steel cable equipped with a spring. Nothing fancy. The plate does not move anyway-in my case it is fixed.
Anyway, thank you.
I will update in the next few days.
I will update you
I removed the silicone heater and did some testing by simply resting the 4mm aluminum panel on the heater--more or less free to expand. The problem persists, although the printing surface struggles quite a bit to heat up--perhaps the air remaining between the silicone pad and the bottom surface of the aluminum does not allow sufficient heat transfer.
Then I removed the Buildtak surface and did some more testing....
Apparently this is the cause of the huge deformation that I encountered above. The Buildtak should not be applied directly to the aluminum panel because it tends to act as a "heat insulator" and thus cause the plane to warp.
As soon as I find a way to re-glue the silicone pad under the aluminum, I will do more tests and put back the 4 mm glass I had previously.
I will let you know.
In the meantime, the 1200w, 220v, 600x600 mm silicone heater, identical to the one I have, I can no longer find!
Do you have any useful links to well-stocked online stores?
this is my idea:
this is my idea
I take an 8mm 6061-T6 aluminum sheet and apply the silicone heater under it.
On this slab I lay the 4mm one with the Buildtak mat on it.
Theoretically it should work. What do you guys say?
with the modular solution based on 4 separate heating modules, I would have several interchangeable printing surfaces, one of 300x300mm, one of 600x300mm and one of 600x600mm, to be replaced as needed.
I live in Italy, with 220v voltage and 16A outlets, so I have no problem.
1200W with the 4mm aluminum top is enough and it takes about 3 minutes to go from about 16 to 60°C.
With a single 10mm aluminum plane it surely becomes a few--or would take longer anyway.
I don't know what would be the best solution!
I actually meant spring steel -- not stainless, I was wrong.
the current heater is a silicon pad 220v 1200w with dimensions 600x600mm, it was not easy to find it 2 years ago, but I made it.
What I don't like is not being able to replace each component quickly and easily.
I was thinking of a PCB but I would have to have it custom made.
With 4 silicone pads of commercial ones, attached under the relevant aluminum plates of about 300x300 mm (what thickness though?), I could solve it, mounting the steel plate on top. To keep it in place, I could insert 2 mm wide magnets along the outer perimeter and between the 4 aluminum plates.