Best posts made by 3DPMicro

As I logged on to the forum this morning I had a realization or perhaps I was just having a "moment". For the majority of us this is a hobby. A passionate one at that. We lay in bed at night dreaming of that perfect print or a new design. Seeing all the challenges people face and then overcome I couldn't help but feel appreciation for the tireless efforts of David, Tony, the moderators and all the contributors driven by this passion. Thank you.
Personally I am challenged when it comes to the electronics/computer side of the machine. Hell, I didn't even own a computer until I was in my mid 20's yet because of the efforts of this organization I have been able to create some awesome stuff and plan to make more. Keep it up guys

I've been working on this one for a couple months. Using Misumi LX20 actuators with 1mm lead ball screws driven by 1 amp, 1.8 nema 14's on x and y (10 kg of force) and a .9 nema 17 on the Z using 75 mm square, steel bar as the foundation. Tool is driven by a 150K RPM Nakanishi air spindle. The purpose of the build is high accuracy micro machining. I have just ran the first test part, a 9mm diameter sprocket, and it turned out phenomenal (inspecting it with a digital microscope). I plan to try some 3D contouring next and then find the limits in part sized using .5 and .25 mm end mills I have.

I was able to get the motors to run over 1200 RPM (1200 mm/m travel speed) but while using my test program they stuttered when interpolating corners below a certain radius (G2/G3) with 16x ms, interpolated. Still almost silent and smooth at 8x Ms w/o interpolation. I went all over the place with Accel, and jerk with no apparent effect on the stuttering until down, around 600 mm/m. This 2.3 mm thick part took 14 minutes using a .81 mm end mill including interpolating the 6, 1 mm mounting holes. .1 mm axial DOC and 400 mm/m feed.
The demensions I can measure easily came out within .02 mm

p.s. for the record i was not actually using the bathroom when I took the picture

My little micro Mill has been working great. No hicups other than the PanelDue touch screen not always working right (too lazy to investigate). I make high precision machined parts at my job using $500k equipment and it still amazes me how accurate and repeatable this $800 machine is. Latest project was a gift I made for my parents 50th wedding anniversary. Using a 20 deg engraving bit with a .1mm tip the machine was consistently able to ablate the thin aluminum film from the backside of the mirror with only minor signs of etching the glass in a few places. This was after surfacing the spoil plate and verifying flatness within .005 mm. This tells me at least the Z is hitting the theoretical .003 mm resolution and doing it pretty darn consistently.

The Duet 2, with regularily updated FW has been flawless through many projects over the last few years guiding this little mill. I have the same confidence in it as any of the professional grade machines I run at work.
I thought if it could be tripped up the g code for 3d maching the .5mm radii on this part would do it. Resolving moves as small as 100nm for the inside corners there was no indication of lost steps or rounding errors (the floating point goes that low?) over the 8 parts that were made. Pretty cool
https://youtu.be/27_E8RawCyQ
There were 0 hiccups and 0 errors but underruns showed 0,0,4. What does that mean?

Tail dragers can be equally frustrating because of a ground loop

@miss-rebekah I'm a machinist too (30 years in aerospace) . I think it's important to realize the value in the Duet. I dont think it was ever intended to be a full feature cnc controller (although it is quite capable) rather the focus is on 3d printing. For less than $150 it is extremely powerful but it does lack a a tad in the cnc department but continualy improved. I assume if you are going single block you are not doing the programming were here you will program so you already know what the machine is supposed to do next. Although there is no feed hold (before the buffer runs out) that I am aware of you can set up an emergency stop button that will keep you from tearing anything up. If you want your router to act like your machine at work I would suggest looking at Acorn or Oak but be prepared to pay a lot more for those additional features you mentioned. I say give it a try and I'll think those few things will become a non issue. Duet and RRF is very user friendly once you get past the learning curve and it's all g code so I think you'll feel very comfortable with it.

This is for a mill so no Z probing. I can get 3 of these dirt cheap https://www.ia.omron.com/product/item/1017/
and would like to use them on a new mill build. Here's my board info...

I see info here https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Connecting_a_Z_probe#Section_Mode_Num_5
on how to connect as a Z probe but how do I hook them up for XYZ endstops?
Thanks

@dc42:

Just upload the DuetWebControl.zip file through the Settings General tab of DWC. It will be unzipped and the files will be put in the correct folders automatically.

I cant get the DWC to open

Danal's passion to contribute to the Duet community will be sorely missed
RIP Danal

Im interested in better understanding how Duet handles motion planning. Is there documentation somewhere that explains this? Another question, probably for David is that its to my understanding that closed loop control (with encoder feedback) is at some stage of development. Can you summarize how that will work and the types of hardware that will be supported i.e. types of encoders and resolution (quadrature?)? I have already built 2, 3d printers and a micro milling machine using Duet 2. I have also owned the same Haas VF2 Vertical Machining Center for the last 20 years. Mechanically the machine is in good shape but because of its age it is no longer supported by the manufacturer. I was thinking about using a Duet and installing nema 34 steppers with encoders (no feedback to the control) or some other stepper/servo, servo or similar with encoder feedback (to the control) I may not be ready to do this till early next year but I would like to start planning now. Thoughts?

Here's how mine are wired
https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/10596/sanity-check-plz-omron-inductive-switch-for-xyz-endstops/2?_=1593251170749
Needs a schottky bat43 diode

I have been printing tiny parts for several years. Not a clear picture but there are 3 examples on a penny in my profile pic. Its been a week since you posted this so if you come back I would be more than happy to share what has worked for me

I'm sure it's not a simple hardware adjustment but I think it would be great to have the ability to supply high voltages to the board or a separate HV input for the drivers. The 5160 is good for 60v, the 5161, 40v and possibly another TMC option that could run up to 60v (probably require external MOSFETs). This would really help with the nema 23's. Pumping out high steps rates is not a problem so why not have the ability to significantly extend the RPM range of the motors while picking up the midrange? We all want to go as fast as possible atleast for non print moves and it would add more flexibility to a system that was designed to be flexible

@bendiesel yes, I already have a thread on reprap for this topic http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?1,816864 and will probably post the end result there

@dc42 said in Duet 3d did not consider:

We are also looking at including encoder interfaces on some boards so that we can do closed loop control.

That will be sweet

the slicer produces the gcode and the servos should do as commanded. Do you have something like "avoid crossing parameters" selected? this will create weird, non print moves. if you can identify the part of the gcode program where this taking place you should be able the see the non linear moves. Could possibly be something else. Do your servos have a controller of some sort

you got the faux carbon fiber look for sure. Whats your driver current set at? looks like the steppers are pissed

@toastinator said in Closed Loop Motor Setup:

While Also Experimenting with a Filastruder to Make my Own PEEK and PEI Filament. Im Buried in Projects!

Try PEKK instead of PEEK. Better than PEEK in some respects and waaaay easier to print